WTB Fuel/temp gauge

In good cosmetic shape. Its okay if it doesn't work, but would like good chrome, needle, etc.


I don’t think this meets your requirements. Glass is dirty on the inside and chrome has a small dent. Needles are good. If you are building a custom gauge it may be a good core. You know the “price” ;)

F3D5486F-28D7-4F30-8331-C54142311061.jpeg
3230648A-006F-4E90-B496-4A8335054E3C.jpeg
 
Gary, look closely at the color of the numbers. you have a 2800cs and they have beige numbers. 3.0cs have white numbers ... there is a good chance they won't match. if you need a beige one i probably have one
 
Gary, look closely at the color of the numbers. you have a 2800cs and they have beige numbers. 3.0cs have white numbers ... there is a good chance they won't match. if you need a beige one i probably have one

Good call bringing it up. The one he got from Tom looks like it has beige...
47DF46AF-C5A9-4B75-A0ED-E07D9A72E76A.jpeg
 
What is the 'T" & the 'F" for?
I know this may be a stupid question. I'm assuming temp and fuel light?
My white "T" lights up on my CS almost as soon as I turn the ignition?
My gauge is also no longer reading, was fine before the restoration. Given I've obviously power to the gauge it has to be in the sensor unit?
That moves freely but perhaps the wire inside broke?
 
T=low fuel warning
F=high beam

If T comes on either you're about to run out of gas or your in tank sensor is faulty
 
‘T’ light also comes on if the e-handbrake lever is not completely disengaged from the electrical switch (mounted near handbrake ratcheting gear). Easy fix though.
 
T=low fuel warning
F=high beam

If T comes on either you're about to run out of gas or your in tank sensor is faulty

Right. Must be the sensor as I put $40 of fuel in and it still stays on. Guess that also explains why the needle wont move.
 
Back
Top