possible, WTB, 'floor fillers'

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mark99

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possible, WTB, 'floor fillers'

On the driver's and passenger forward floor, there is a foam or rubber piece that fills in some of the contours so the carpet is smoother

I can't find this part on a parts diagram, if someone can find it on Real OEM I would appreciate a link
I could use these parts, or maybe with good photos piece something together

Thanks
 
CS-work.de may have these
www.cs-werk.de

25 1 BMW E9 Schaumkeil L - CS Werk Bonn

Produktname: Füllstück Schaumkeil Formstück L (Fußraum Fahrer) Form: Nachfertigung original NOS Teil diente als Vorlage. Farbe: beige Material: Styropur entspricht Teilenummer: 52 47 1 825 753 Preis: 75,00 € + Versandkosten* *Versandkosten innerhalb Deutschland: Diese richten sich je nach...
www.cs-werk.de www.cs-werk.de
 
HB Chris said:
CS-work.de may have these
Click to expand...

www.cs-werk.de

25 1 BMW E9 Schaumkeil L - CS Werk Bonn

Produktname: Füllstück Schaumkeil Formstück L (Fußraum Fahrer) Form: Nachfertigung original NOS Teil diente als Vorlage. Farbe: beige Material: Styropur entspricht Teilenummer: 52 47 1 825 753 Preis: 75,00 € + Versandkosten* *Versandkosten innerhalb Deutschland: Diese richten sich je nach...
www.cs-werk.de www.cs-werk.de

www.cs-werk.de

26 1 BMW E9 Schaumkeil R - CS Werk Bonn

Produktname: Füllstück Schaumkeil Formstück R (Fußraum Beifahrer) Form: Nachfertigung original NOS Teil diente als Vorlage. Farbe: beige Material: Styropur entspricht Teilenummer: 52 47 1 825 754 Preis: 105,00 € + Versandkosten* *Versandkosten innerhalb Deutschland: Diese richten sich je nach...
www.cs-werk.de www.cs-werk.de
 
Interesting, I have seen these types of fillers (and still have a box or two of salvaged stash) on many of the E3s over the years,
but do not recall ever once seeing them on any of the E9s I've had! I should check the Sooner 74 thats here tomorrow....
 
HB Chris said:
CS-work.de may have these
www.cs-werk.de

25 1 BMW E9 Schaumkeil L - CS Werk Bonn

Produktname: Füllstück Schaumkeil Formstück L (Fußraum Fahrer) Form: Nachfertigung original NOS Teil diente als Vorlage. Farbe: beige Material: Styropur entspricht Teilenummer: 52 47 1 825 753 Preis: 75,00 € + Versandkosten* *Versandkosten innerhalb Deutschland: Diese richten sich je nach...
www.cs-werk.de www.cs-werk.de
Click to expand...
Thanks! I have communicated with him in the past but not bought anything yet
 
The cost for 3D printing is pretty much the volume / print time, so probably very expensive

Test fitting my carpet, without the filler on the passenger side, the upper middle carpet goes further forward than it should so it doesn't cover the edge of the carpet piece on the outboard side
 
When fitting carpets to another vintage car (e.g., not an e9 but one requiring similar filler pieces) the upholsterer just stacked pieces of padding material to substitute for these pieces. I would certainly do that before leaving the footwell corner un-filled.
 
mark99 said:
The cost for 3D printing is pretty much the volume / print time, so probably very expensive

Test fitting my carpet, without the filler on the passenger side, the upper middle carpet goes further forward than it should so it doesn't cover the edge of the carpet piece on the outboard side
Click to expand...

First off, the original foam is very rigid, or it hardened over time. I can’t tell how rigid the cs werke parts are from the pics.

If 3D printing, here is what I would do. 3D scan both sides. Print a hollow form in the thinnest, cheapest possible material. Then slowly fill it with home depot expanding foam, which is a similar hardness. One caveat is that the 3D scab won’t be print ready. You need to convert the scan to a 3D model and hollow it out. Also note that the original has baffled and contours that aren’t present on the reproduction, although I am sure that it is great.

Alternatively, print it once in durable material, but cut the model (not the print) in half. Continue to use spray foam on each half, coating the mold with release spray, paste wax, or cooking spray. You could also just stick the mold in a food saver and vacuum seal it. Spray the foam on the vacuum seal. Then cut the mold out but keep the plastic barrier on the foam. Use the edge of the form to cut the foam overflow flat. Glue both foam pieces together. If you used the food saver technique you would have a sealed foam block. Use silicone caulk to seal up the seam.
 
Markos said:
First off, the original foam is very rigid, or it hardened over time. I can’t tell how rigid the cs werke parts are from the pics.

If 3D printing, here is what I would do. 3D scan both sides. Print a hollow form in the thinnest, cheapest possible material. Then slowly fill it with home depot expanding foam, which is a similar hardness. One caveat is that the 3D scab won’t be print ready. You need to convert the scan to a 3D model and hollow it out. Also note that the original has baffled and contours that aren’t present on the reproduction, although I am sure that it is great.

Alternatively, print it once in durable material, but cut the model (not the print) in half. Continue to use spray foam on each half, coating the mold with release spray, paste wax, or cooking spray. You could also just stick the mold in a food saver and vacuum seal it. Spray the foam on the vacuum seal. Then cut the mold out but keep the plastic barrier on the foam. Use the edge of the form to cut the foam overflow flat. Glue both foam pieces together. If you used the food saver technique you would have a sealed foam block. Use silicone caulk to seal up the seam.
Click to expand...
If you had one to scan, you could just make a mold of that, no scanning, modeling, printing
Probably could be modeled without scanning, old school measurements
 
mark99 said:
If you had one to scan, you could just make a mold of that, no scanning, modeling, printing
Probably could be modeled without scanning, old school measurements
Click to expand...

Agreed. I Was thinking the same thing.
 
OK, I feel like an analog slacker now. My passenger side is cracked in 2, almost 3 pieces. I wouldn’t have known but found it chasing a wire. I put it back as is. To me, it’s like dried Great Stuff or dense styrofoam. I thought I’d just cut & shave some hardened foam and waterproof seal it when I got around to cleaning and Dynamatting the floor. Is that a terrible approach?
 
the easiest thing would be to sculpt it out of rigid foam with a hot wire machine. we used to make architectural mass models with one. just glue up a bunch of blocks of foam then draw the shape and cut it out. in one of the architectural firms i worked for we used to have contests to see who could do the best 'special' shape - like a sphere or other extruded shapes.
 
Make one out of wood with no bottom, lay wax paper on the inside with masking tape, spray expanding foam on the inside, pull it out and saw the bottom off flat
 
what I did for this same thing was to get a couple stacks of 2’x2’ hi density interlocking black flooring squares from harbor freight, with a 40 off coupon was like $10, and then referred to online pics to get a general idea of the final look and fit.
Made a paper template of the bottom where it meets the floor and cut my 1st piece of the foam flooring then trimmed, filed and sanded to a nice fit.
On my car there was a semi-visible line under the old carpet on the tunnel’s hardboard cover where this old original foam piece was hit with factory carpet glue, so I was able to see an end target height and line/angle.
Continuing with several more paper template and custom trimmed to fit layers of the foam flooring tiles, I felt I had a nice final fitment of the several layers of foam. Probably like 8 layers of foam.
I carefully marked and refit the layers, used contact cement on both side and stuck all the foam layers together.
I used big scissors to initial trim and a wood rasp, some 80 grit on a belt sander and some 120 on a palm to do some shaping to match the body contours.
Pics soon, but this seems a solid solution for me and I’m very satisfied with how it’ll work and look under the carpet.
I have not fabbed one for the driver side yet.
I actually kept most of the layers’ paper templates that I made and would happily send a set if interested.

Steve-o
 
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