$30 w shipping
think i have a mount included if needed
A 72-79 Federal bus came with a black coil 022 905 115C and a common "upgrade" includes switching to the hotter blue coil, sometimes called the Bosch Super coil.
According to Brian Verbeek, the Blue coil is less powerful than the OEM black version but I haven't been able to prove that through measurement. They appear to operate nearly identically.
So what makes one coil different from the other? The ballast resistor. This is a resistor inside the coil on the primary side that reduces the current flow partly so the points don't burn up. You can detect the presence of the resistor by measuring the ohms of primary side of the coil (terminal 15 vs. terminal 1). Because the primary is mostly copper wiring (virtually zero ohms), the presence of a resistor is usually easily detected.
When upgrading to a Pertronix Ignitor many people switch coils to get the most out of it but it won't hurt it you keep the stock black coil unless it's worn out. I've done some mileage tests on long trips and accounting for the terrain (hills and wind conditions) it appears that the blue coil gives slightly better mileage but that could simply be compared to the original 25 year old black coil. I'd like to do some more scientific testing to find out exactly what the true benefit is (the coil is basically a step-up transformer and the blue coil with its altered windings and lower resistance should result in a spark with more energy).
Whether you are running stock points or the Pertronix, you need a coil with the ballast resistor inside like the original black coil and this is the heart of the problem with regard to all the copies out there. Unless you add an external ballast resistor, running the wrong coil could fry your Points or your even more expensive Pertronix.
If you have a CDI setup with a conventional coil keep in mind that you don't need a ballast resistor inside. The modification you require is a rotor with the resistance removed.
think i have a mount included if needed
A 72-79 Federal bus came with a black coil 022 905 115C and a common "upgrade" includes switching to the hotter blue coil, sometimes called the Bosch Super coil.
According to Brian Verbeek, the Blue coil is less powerful than the OEM black version but I haven't been able to prove that through measurement. They appear to operate nearly identically.
So what makes one coil different from the other? The ballast resistor. This is a resistor inside the coil on the primary side that reduces the current flow partly so the points don't burn up. You can detect the presence of the resistor by measuring the ohms of primary side of the coil (terminal 15 vs. terminal 1). Because the primary is mostly copper wiring (virtually zero ohms), the presence of a resistor is usually easily detected.
When upgrading to a Pertronix Ignitor many people switch coils to get the most out of it but it won't hurt it you keep the stock black coil unless it's worn out. I've done some mileage tests on long trips and accounting for the terrain (hills and wind conditions) it appears that the blue coil gives slightly better mileage but that could simply be compared to the original 25 year old black coil. I'd like to do some more scientific testing to find out exactly what the true benefit is (the coil is basically a step-up transformer and the blue coil with its altered windings and lower resistance should result in a spark with more energy).
Whether you are running stock points or the Pertronix, you need a coil with the ballast resistor inside like the original black coil and this is the heart of the problem with regard to all the copies out there. Unless you add an external ballast resistor, running the wrong coil could fry your Points or your even more expensive Pertronix.
If you have a CDI setup with a conventional coil keep in mind that you don't need a ballast resistor inside. The modification you require is a rotor with the resistance removed.
