Heater core replace vs repair

Thomas76

Thomas76

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I just received a call from the local radiator shop, my heater core is leak free and holding pressure but....
He said the pipe walls are very thin and recommends rebuild or replacement.
$300 to rebuild.
I have not found a source for new...
Anyone been through this and have advise?
Sticky green and stuck....
 
I am pretty sure there is no source for new. As to the recommendation, I cannot think of a circumstance that would cause thinning of the heater core piping. The core is inside the car and very well protected, so the thinning would have to be caused from the inside out. Even in the rust belt, that sounds really strange to me.
 
Mine was leaking when pressure tested, so I had it repaired since I couldn't find anything better to replace it with.
I paid around 150€ to have it fixed at my local radiator shop.
 
A good radiator shop can repair and rebuild these easily. I'm with Chris on the wall thinning. Unless your running acid in your radiator.
Look or old time places that have been in business 30-40 years. They know how and usually are pretty reasonable.
 
Thanks everyone, appreciate the support. I stopped by the shop tonight and told them to go ahead with the rebuild, he explained the process and showed me the iffy areas. There were many cuss words spoken whilst removing it from under the dash, I don't want to do it again.
 
Thomas76 said:
I just received a call from the local radiator shop, my heater core is leak free and holding pressure but....
He said the pipe walls are very thin and recommends rebuild or replacement.
$300 to rebuild.
Click to expand...

I wonder how he knows the pipes are thin?

Mine had a small leak which I had repaired. Not expensive over here.
 
I may have mispoken, after looking at it last night there were multiple spots with external rust. After rebuild is complete the only original parts are the end caps.
 
I recently had my heater unit repaired. It did not leak, but it was rusty. the thin sheets were corroding away, so I opted to have it replaced at a local shop. They used copper for the thin wafer sheets, so it must be able to transmit a lot of heat. 230 Euro's...
I do agree with Don; Getting a leaky core out is a few hours of work, and it is a mounted in a way that breaks your back if you have seats & handbrake in the car. From the non-financial perspective: fix it and you'll have 50 years of peace of mind.
 

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Last edited:
Hi there

I've been on this fence and the only decision is to dive in. The best and most convincing advice was '50 y of peace of mind'. By all signs, my AC core and the heater core are not leaking HOWEVER peace of mind is invaluable. So...I am going to remove both cores and have them tested. As the interior is already out, waiting for seats and carpet kits...this is the best time for this. The AC box and heater box look pristine so hopefully core testing, a clean, new foam and reinstall...

Regards
Bill

Ps. There are many write ups on bypassing the heater core as it radiates heat even when switched to the COLD setting (as there is no actual heater valve like in the 2002). I live in Alberta Canada and we do get cool, humid mornings during mid summer and a bit of heat is nice. Any advise on this topic is appreciated!

HNY!
 
When you are in there you might consider replacing the A/C expansion valve as once you have been in that deep you will not want to ever go back in there again.
 
Hi Chris
That is a very deep dive. The AC system was working very well before disassembly so I am assuming it will work after. I think a pressure test is critical and I'll go from there... My goal for this system is to upgrade with a rotary pump, fresh lines and current refrigerant. The fan is quiet with no warn bushing noises when starting or coming to a stop.

Cheers,
Bill
 
Hi

Yup...I have the AC and heater boxes out. Impeccable condition. I will get both boxes tested.

What a PITA...the most challenging is actually finding an adhesive so the new foam seals stick. I ended up with cleaning off the old glue, rouging the metal surfaces with 200 grit paper, removing the glue strip from the foam, and using 3M HD spray adhesive. PITA and fingers crossed; I hate thinking the glue is not going to last. I will try the 'pick at it' test tomorrow.



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Yup...I usually have a tin of that. Have used it on headliners, etc. Excellent stuff for sure. I have not yet passed 'the point of no return'; I may order a tin and redo...

Cheers

1609723276074.png
 
billpatterson said:
Hi there

I've been on this fence and the only decision is to dive in. The best and most convincing advice was '50 y of peace of mind'. By all signs, my AC core and the heater core are not leaking HOWEVER peace of mind is invaluable. So...I am going to remove both cores and have them tested. As the interior is already out, waiting for seats and carpet kits...this is the best time for this. The AC box and heater box look pristine so hopefully core testing, a clean, new foam and reinstall...

Regards
Bill

Ps. There are many write ups on bypassing the heater core as it radiates heat even when switched to the COLD setting (as there is no actual heater valve like in the 2002). I live in Alberta Canada and we do get cool, humid mornings during mid summer and a bit of heat is nice. Any advise on this topic is appreciated!

HNY!
Click to expand...
Hi Bill, I tried the heater bypass for a year, and had to go back and reconnect. Was an interesting experiment. I felt the cabin was way too hot in the summer months, so wanted to try this. My Coupe has no a/c. What I found out is that with no heater at all, there is NO HEAT EVER, should you want some. In the Fall, early morning drives needed gloves, plus there was no demister action. I came to realize that a huge contributor to the cabin heat, was the missing drainage tubes that attach to the upper engine compartment area. If you recall, there is an outlet on each side of the car, that allows water to drain down, and below. If these rubber drain tubes are missing, just imagine all the heat from the exhaust manifolds rising up and travelling through these tubes, and in through the heater matrix, and heating up the cabin. I have since sourced these rubber tubes from Carl at La Jolla. They have really improved things. But it does point out the fact that these '70s cars, really need some more modern ways to keep engine heat from infiltrating the interior of our cars. Good luck with the project! Mike
 
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