Heater core replace vs repair

10 bucks....



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bluecoupe30! said:
Hi Bill, I tried the heater bypass for a year, and had to go back and reconnect. Was an interesting experiment. I felt the cabin was way too hot in the summer months, so wanted to try this. My Coupe has no a/c. What I found out is that with no heater at all, there is NO HEAT EVER, should you want some. In the Fall, early morning drives needed gloves, plus there was no demister action. I came to realize that a huge contributor to the cabin heat, was the missing drainage tubes that attach to the upper engine compartment area. If you recall, there is an outlet on each side of the car, that allows water to drain down, and below. If these rubber drain tubes are missing, just imagine all the heat from the exhaust manifolds rising up and travelling through these tubes, and in through the heater matrix, and heating up the cabin. I have since sourced these rubber tubes from Carl at La Jolla. They have really improved things. But it does point out the fact that these '70s cars, really need some more modern ways to keep engine heat from infiltrating the interior of our cars. Good luck with the project! Mike
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Thanks Mike,

Ya...I agree...functioning heating and cooling system is the way to go in our climates. Very interesting about the drain tubes (and for that matter intact under hood seals) and how much heat they let into the cabin. Mine are toast so I will put new ones on the list. BTW - the under hood seals should be intact too and have a very similar if not the same profile as the trunk seal. I plan to recycle as much as I can...

Bill
 
On my 2800 I used an e3 trunk seal for the fresh air plenum works great. E3 drain hoses/snorkels are are long gone, they are the same as series II NK sedans.
 
billpatterson said:
Hi

Yup...I have the AC and heater boxes out. Impeccable condition. I will get both boxes tested.

What a PITA...the most challenging is actually finding an adhesive so the new foam seals stick. I ended up with cleaning off the old glue, rouging the metal surfaces with 200 grit paper, removing the glue strip from the foam, and using 3M HD spray adhesive. PITA and fingers crossed; I hate thinking the glue is not going to last. I will try the 'pick at it' test tomorrow.
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Hi Bill, what did you use for replacement foam? Is it available or did you need to make your own. Appreciate the input on the adhesive, buying some now!

Lance
 
Also, this is what I found when I opened up my heater core box. I am glad that I did, and of course all the foam (looks to be about 3-4mm is perished, just turns to powder when touched.

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Boonies said:
Also, this is what I found when I opened up my heater core box. I am glad that I did, and of course all the foam (looks to be about 3-4mm is perished, just turns to powder when touched.

View attachment 108826
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Hi Lance

I used adhesive neoprene strip available at most DIY stores like Home Depot (5/8 wide, 1/8" thick). The adhesive strip did not adhere well so I cleaned it off and used a heavy duty 3M spray adhesive and roughened the baffle with 200 grit. I prefer a brush on rubber cement (Wurth or Lepage) but I did not have any so I am kinda on the fence about redoing. Also, the strips I used were on the narrow side so I have ordered some 1/8" neoprene sheet which I can cut into wider strips for the 'may be redo'.

Ya...the original foam falls apart and needs to be changed.

Your core seems to have a bit of corrosion. Are you going to get it flushed and tested!?

Cheers
 
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