Looking at another car / no Keys / how to ? Cost ?

bossrobot

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Hello,
I am looking at another coupe to accompany or more realistically replace Bianka Black my current E9. This car has no keys, they can't find them. I am trying to get a real world idea of how this should effect the offer I make.
I am thinking to deduct $2000 because of the headache this will be even though I can do the work and as my wife says " I never get paid for my time with old cars" :(

Any thoughts ?
Best Wishes
Johnny
 
Actually most of us (all of us?) don't get paid for working on our old cars. It's either part of the hobby, or it's farmed out for others to do for us. Both ways work.

If you can get into the trunk you can get the key code off the lock and have Santa Monica Lock make you a new master key that will open ignition, doors and trunk.

If you can't get into the trunk but a door is open, you can get the code off a door lock and have a key made that will fit the doors and ignition. At some point you may have to remove the ignition lock cylinder (a big pain) in order to have a master key made. Before I did that, however, I'd make every effort to open the trunk (pull out back seat, push out rear trunk liner, etc.)

If it is a $20,000 car, I think a $2k deduction is a little steep. I can't imagine it being much more than that if you have been unable to start and drive it (unless it is very special in some way)
 
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My coupe had three different lock codes and since many have been replaced even a door lock code may not work on ignition. And there is no access to the trunk from back seat, only through the gas filler door.
 
Key codes are on the door locks & trunk lock. Keys4classics in Australia can make new keys from those codes. Door & ignition use the same key.

Walloth-Nesch sells a complete E9 lockset with keys.

I accept PayPal for that information. (I am joking about payment)
LOl
 
My coupe had three different lock codes and since many have been replaced even a door lock code may not work on ignition. And there is no access to the trunk from back seat, only through the gas filler door.
Thanks Chris,
Your comment makes sense to me.
 
In a 74 or later model e9, wouldn't the gastank be removable from the underside?
Fuel lines ,gasfiller neck and wiring would need te be disconnected as well, but maybe doable one handed with the fueltank dangling?
( if you know what you're doing/having another e9 next to you to check)
 
That lock set on Walloth-Nesch is $535 and is listed as "Lock set without glove box for all models up to 04/1972 " anybody know the difference/ differences after 4/72 ?
 
That lock set on Walloth-Nesch is $535 and is listed as "Lock set without glove box for all models up to 04/1972 " anybody know the difference/ differences after 4/72 ?
The only difference between early & late is ignition lock, later insert is longer, the rest of locks is 100% the same.
 
And there is no access to the trunk from back seat, only through the gas filler door.

Don’t overlook the speaker holes on the hat shelf either. If they do exist that at the very least gets you an extra flashlight shining onto the work area. Depending on size and placement it may help you get to the trunk lock.


Your “best case” situation is that your hat shelf is like mine, with five speaker holes in it! :D Thankfully I saved the shelf from my parts car.
 
Sometimes the glove box lock (if exists) is the right way to go as long you can go into the car.

The lock barrel is easy to remove and quite probable it was not changed over years.

The risk of any external locks (including trunk one) are changed is very high.
 
Assume you rifled through every part of the car to find them. I would call SM lock and ask them their thoughts, they really enjoy both helping and a challenge.

Blaine (Blane, forgive my spelling) at SM lock said sometimes two of the tumblers in the lock will be swapped rather than buying a new lock so even the code on the lock may not correspond to the lock, that was my case......like you want to hear every permutation of what can go wrong.
 
Just makes sure you can turn the motor over by hand if you dont have a key.
if you have a battery, you can manually jump the starter too. My current car came with a seized motor and no keys. seller swore to god that he had it running in the previous weeks but just couldnt find keys.
 
Key codes are on the door locks & trunk lock. Keys4classics in Australia can make new keys from those codes. Door & ignition use the same key.

Walloth-Nesch sells a complete E9 lockset with keys.

I accept PayPal for that information. (I am joking about payment)

That's if it hasn't been messed with in the past. Mine didn't match. The easiest to see codes are on are the glove box and trunk locks. The doors are more difficult but some have talked about using a mirror to read the codes. I took mine out and the codes are as plain as the day.

The ignition barrel is straightforward to get out... It's not easy but straightforward. It takes some time and finesse. Especially with the ignition switch on the rear of the barrel. Do NOT pull on the ignition switch (one with the wires) or you will surely be crying in your soup.

DM me if you go that route and want help..

Once you have the ignition code, you're golden...
 
I wonder how many coupes have glove box locks? Mine does not.

My CSI did. I still have the lock. It doesn’t have the little spring loaded trap door, and it doesn’t look like it is missing.

Personally I don’t like the look. The clean push button looks much better. I would also rather have the contents stolen than the dash damaged. As discussed the key doesn’t match the ignition either.
 
Is the keyhole open or does it have the little metal trap door?

It is just a hole. The flaps were only outside. Same with ignition key lock - no flap.

Mine has a lock and this is my hope.


Due to pandemic still waiting and waiting for BMW Dealer feedback.
 
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