SOLVED: Electrical issues - Windows and headlights

[dang]

My coupe has been sitting about six months or so and after getting it back on the road I found out the headlights and electric windows are not working. I don't think they're related, but after looking at the wiring diagram I think I'll swap the headlight switch first. I get power to the switch, running lights work but headlights don't get power past the switch. I have a few switches on the shelf so I'll try that.

The windows are not working at all, no power, but there's also no power to #8 and #9 fuses. The wiring diagram shows a power shedding relay supplying those two terminals, is this my next focus? There's photos posted of that relay on the site so I think I can find it.

Other ideas?

 

[HB Chris]

Power to lights comes from ignition switch to headlight switch to stalk on column, that could be your issue. Does your hi beam relay click when energized? A friend had the load shed relay fail so this is a possibility. You can swap the relays around, see our FAQ on wiring for descriptions.

 

[dang]

Power to lights comes from ignition switch to headlight switch to stalk on column, that could be your issue. Does your hi beam relay click when energized? A friend had the load shed relay fail so this is a possibility. You can swap the relays around, see our FAQ on wiring for descriptions.

Running lights work but headlights don't. High beams work when you pull back on the stock but not when you move it up to stay in position. If I'm testing it right, the yellow wire coming off of the headlight switch to the dip switch does not have power. I figured the easiest thing to do would be to swap the switch since I have one.

 

[HB Chris]

Good plan, yellow is lo beam, white is always hi beam.

 

[Thomas76]

Based off memory alone It seems that higher amperage devices are through the load shed relay, so plausible that headlights and window motors are ultimately same source through a failed load shed..
Having voltage at the relay could be misleading because you need two voltage sources to turn something on.
1. control power to fire relay (typically small gauge)
2. Device power (heavier gauge) that sends juice to headlight/motor ect.

 

[dang]

Based off memory alone It seems that higher amperage devices are through the load shed relay, so plausible that headlights and window motors are ultimately same source through a failed load shed..
Having voltage at the relay could be misleading because you need two voltage sources to turn something on.
1. control power to fire relay (typically small gauge)
2. Device power (heavier gauge) that sends juice to headlight/motor ect.

Headlight switch is getting power. Fuses 8 & 9 are not getting power from the load shed relay, but I haven't checked upstream of the relay yet. The headlights don't get power from the load shed relay according to the wiring diagram.

 

[sfdon]

Low beam side of dip switch can go first because it powers the light bulbs directly.
High beam side powers the high beam relay so can last longer.

power in green
power out is yellow or white (lo/hi)
If you bridge yellow to yellow white from dip switch your lows will go on with your highs (for euro conversion)
Credit HB Chris...

 

[dang]

SOLVED. For some reason I missed the fact that there are two power wires going to the headlight switch. Right there on the wiring diagram so I just missed it. Red wire had power but the green/red wire did not with ignition. The ignition switch did have power at the green/red wire so I tried to trace the wire and never did see a green/red wire at the fuse block. It's suppose to be on the powered side of the block as a connection, un-fused. I decided to look at the window problem so I started with the load shed relay. Nothing. No power. What the hell. My thought process was then "what have I worked on lately?" and started looking in the engine compartment since I've been messing with the carbs and master cylinder. I had disconnected the battery several times and when I inspected the cables I found one of the wires connected to the positive terminal had broken. There's a group of about five wires that bundle together and they had a little corrosion at the connection and one had broken off. I put new connectors on all the wires and everything is back to working again.