Intermittent Ignition switch

[Laldog]

My 1973 E9 (US, standard transmission, Weber conv.) has an intermittent starting issue. About 1 time out of 10, I will turn ignition key to engage starter, and nothing happens. No fuel pump, lights on dash etc. I turn the key to the off position, try it again and car starts as per usual.

A few years ago, I replaced the ignition wires (or the wires leading to the back of the ignition switch inside the steering column, and this seemed to postpone the problem. It seems now that the problem is happening more often, maybe one time in 5. It does usually correct itself, but I really don't want to get stranded as I venture outside my usual 20 mi radius.

Also, the infamous grub screw appears to be absent, so what exactly is holding the ignition cylinder in place??

Any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Stevehose]

The grub screw holds the switch in position so therein is likely your issue - either it’s not tight against the cylinder or it’s failing internally.

 

[bavbob]

I would check you grounds.

 

[tochi]

The grub screw holds the switch in position so therein is likely your issue - either it’s not tight against the cylinder or it’s failing internally.

https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-switch.22495/

Another alternative "might" be to install a remote starter switch and use it in conjunction with your keyed ignition switch.

 

[Honolulu]

(snicker) I put a pushbutton starter switch in my '67 VW Squareback after one key was stolen and the other went missing, and a toggle switch to energize the ignition. One more thing, when I first connected the pushbutton switch, the starter ran continuously. I had to do some minor surgery inside the switch to convert the function. Yes the car could have been easily stolen, but apparently no one wanted a 120,000-mile Type 3 that was getting a little tired. I cockroached the toggle switch from an abandoned VW Bus I'd seen on the side of the highway for a couple months.... found $3 stashed behind the column too, so it was a worthwhile stop indeed. The good old days...

 

[jmackro]

Also, the infamous grub screw appears to be absent, so what exactly is holding the ignition cylinder in place??

I would assume that nothing is holding the ignition cylinder in place and that's your issue. When you turn the key, the whole ignition cylinder is turning, instead of just the barrel inside the cylinder.

 

[sfdon]

The ignition switch will not rotate in the lock cylinder without the grub screw.

The grub screw holds the ignition switch into the lock cylinder.

The ignition switch pin keeps the ignition switch from rotating.

 

[jmackro]

Darn! That missing grub screw sure seemed like a good suspect.

 

[tochi]

I may be missing something, as I often do, but I think this thread ought to be read in conjunction with another recent thread entitled "Grub screw problem." https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/grub-screw-problem.45742/

In that other thread, the same poster seems to be dealing with a modified steering column.

Whether or how this scenario prevents an otherwise "normal" installation of an ignition switch is unknown. Be that as it may, another thread in this forum (https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/wtb-old-style-e9-ignition-switch.31921/ ) noted the existence of a similar ignition switch - for what appears to be an earlier or different model - but with an alignment pin that was differently positioned than the ignition switch in question. I should note that I have used a switch that did not have any alignment pin on a long gone E3. At the time, I did not check for the pin or its orientation - since the switch easily fit and worked fine with the grub screw installation. That switch, sans alignment pin, was purchased new, but I suppose it was possible that someone had previously ground off the pin and returned the switch in what appeared to be an unused condition.



https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/wtb-old-style-e9-ignition-switch.31921/