Hood insulation

ES 1800

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
151
Reaction score
10
Location
Larsen, WI
The hood insulation foam backing is just fine but the silver-backed 'cellophane' covering it looks terrible. Is anyone aware of a material that could be placed over this thin cellophane-like material that would withstand the heat of the engine compartment? Self-adhesive would be idea, but anything would be acceptable.

jim
20250712_172303.jpg
 
where did you buy that?

We use closed cell foam from Classic 9

 
It came with the car, so I don't know its source. But the foam on all 3 pieces is good, hence my desire to recover it.
 
It came with the car, so I don't know its source. But the foam on all 3 pieces is good, hence my desire to recover it.
That foam deteriorates with age, and flakes off in little tiny pieces in the engine bay when it gets old. And anything that leaks and gets thrown about in the engine bay will get imbedded into it. I wouldn't install that as part of a restoration.
 
That foam deteriorates with age, and flakes off in little tiny pieces in the engine bay when it gets old. And anything that leaks and gets thrown about in the engine bay will get imbedded into it. I wouldn't install that as part of a restoration.
What was there originally?
 
open cell foam - the stuff that starts to disintegrate over time. closed cell foam will look much better for longer ... they look about the same when new. 6 months to 12 months, they start to change - 5 years, its something completely different.
 
I’ve had the adhesive backing fall off the foam while still in the shipping bag.
It’s junk
Closed cell from any of the other sources is vastly superior.
 
where did you buy that?

We use closed cell foam from Classic 9

I bought from them recently, still haven't got to project yet but I opted for the thicker 1/2" material which they were out of for a while, but it looks great. Reminds me I need to address that soon.

Rod Klingelhofer is great to deal with there FYI...
 
On a side note - I had closed cell foam (but with a foil face) installed on the hood of my 2002.
Had that for almost 30 years - I appreciated that the foil acted as a heat reflector - but more importantly, did not allow the foam to absorb anything the engine threw up at it. The shop in Monterey that rebuilt my engine installed that (I don't know where they sourced it - and as that was in 1986 or so, who knows if that would even be available).
I know it was not stock - but, worked great (even though it did not look 'perfect' after being there for those years. See pic taken when I sold the car.

I inquired with sfdon about this kind of foam when he had my E9 - but could not find anything better than the OE style that he ended up installing.
DSC01184.JPG
 
On a side note - I had closed cell foam (but with a foil face) installed on the hood of my 2002.
Had that for almost 30 years - I appreciated that the foil acted as a heat reflector - but more importantly, did not allow the foam to absorb anything the engine threw up at it. The shop in Monterey that rebuilt my engine installed that (I don't know where they sourced it - and as that was in 1986 or so, who knows if that would even be available).
I know it was not stock - but, worked great (even though it did not look 'perfect' after being there for those years. See pic taken when I sold the car.

I inquired with sfdon about this kind of foam when he had my E9 - but could not find anything better than the OE style that he ended up installing.View attachment 205372
And as an added bonus, you can cook hot dogs on the motor while getting a tan!
 
I remember when I opened my hood around about 2008, and found the tiny pieces of disintegrated foam pieces all over my engine. What a mess. Used a heat gun and a spatula (be careful when using a plastic one ( to save the paint ) as the heat will affect it) but, If you are careful, you can safely remove all pieces of the old, expired foam. Solvent helped me remove all of the goo still attached to the hood. Cleaned up well. But I have not had the courage to replace and have not wanted to go through this exercise again, because, you know, I intend on keeping this.
 
I believe Mylar might be a good choice to cover the foam, if I could find a source on than in half-mile (or half-km) rolls.
 
While the engine bay can get hot, I doubt it would ever get hot enough to blister the paint. When I got my coupe there was no insulation on the hood and I drove it for a while in that condition without a problem.

I eventually did order the thicker product from classic9 (link above) and it was cut perfectly for installation. I did have some hood fitment issues and the body shop found that the thicker material was touching the air filter.

My carburetor set up is presently Weber 38's with a spacer underneath to allow the butterfly's to open fully, thus raising the air filter up about 3/4." I have since replaced the center section with the thinner material from Classic9, and will eventually pull off the manifolds and do some surgery to allow removal of the carb spacers
 
Mylars heat resistance is about 250 C.

But @boonies brings up an interesting point. If I want to run the stock air cleaner on Webers… does it cause a problem? I do know that the adapter plates I had on it pushed the air cleaner back a bit too far.
 
But @boonies brings up an interesting point. If I want to run the stock air cleaner on Webers… does it cause a problem? I do know that the adapter plates I had on it pushed the air cleaner back a bit too far.
The adapters made by JAM will position the air cleaner too far backward. But other adapters, such as Redline's, keep it in the original fore-aft position. See threads at: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/restored-cs-air-cleaner-and-weber-adapters.44913/#post-395678 and https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/wtb-weber-adapters-for-stock-air-cleaner.34626/
 
Back
Top