removing the original interior floor insulation

probably because i have some left over from painting my gas tank. the floors are relatively bare metal - there is still some primer in places / bare metal where i have scraped it off. rust, nope, i just want to protect the metal before i put dynamat on it - just in case any water gets down there.
 
I used it on my interior floors as a protection layer years ago and has held up well. I have heard it does not do well in applications subject to UV light where it tends to degrade.
 
i have my skepticism that it would work like that - don't see any tar holding that insulation down.
 
rsporsche said:
i have my skepticism that it would work like that - don't see any tar holding that insulation down.
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It may take some time but the extreme cold will shrink the tar like material and break that gooey bond. I used this method when pulling newer and cheap quality tar sound deadening out of a poorly restored firebird and it the whole sheet popped off in one piece! It was the type that has a sticky side and a foil/metallic top.
 
i gave it a bit of a go with some dry ice food packs, left it on for an hour - did not do much to the tar - the top layer came of reasonably well but the crystalized tar was still there. it may have softened it a bit, but a lot of scraping was still involved. this is the area above the exhaust pipe, so i imagine that is why it is crystalized.
 
report from the driver side - it comes off much easier than the passenger side ... i guess the heat from the exhaust makes a significant difference. in a couple of hours i have most of the drivers side off. i still have to do some cleanup, but it came off much quicker. i did the rear seat with dry ice packs and the front just as it was and i have to report there was zero difference - the tar was still there ... and i left the ice on it for over an hour.

what i have found on the tar is to use a 1.5" wood chisel turned upside down and laid pretty flat and tap with the hammer or just push / scrape and most of it just peels off.
 
quick update - 'goo gone' makes really quick work of the tar residue. spray it on, let it sit a short bit, turn the chisel upside down and push ... it just curls up. after the big chunks are gone, then its a light scrub with the rough pad and a wipedown with paper shop towels. the downside is that the color of the panel turns a bit 'brown'. will use a waterless cleaner to prepare it for the self-etching primer.

i've got to finish the tranny tunnel, and will go back over the passenger side ... since i hadn't used the goo gone on it.
 
yep, that would be correct. i watched Heston Blumenthal make ice cream in a couple of seconds with liquid nitrogen ... he made a specialized machine to do it, and the permits required in London took a while. but, the results are - what flavor would you like - a few seconds later and its ready.
 
Want to add resounding endorsement of the dry ice. I am peeling my rear sound insulation off and yesterday I was disheartened looking at how thick and immobile it was. Two large packs of dry ice and 45 minutes later both rear areas are completely clear. I did the method where I broke it up, put it in a bag and then poured isopropyl alcohol over it all - I think the alcohol becomes hypercooled and then it spreads out to cover the area so you don’t need the dry ice directly contacting every patch of the material. A plastic chisel and a mallet were the only tools needed. I just shop vac’d all the little pieces up as they came offf
 
Glad that worked for you. Made zero difference for me. Once most of it was off, goo gone did a great job of getting rid of any remaining black stuff. Also did a good job on wiring harness remnants
 
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