1973 3.0CS on BaT... again (earlier sold in Jan 2022)

I think Chris needs to fly in, inspect and drive.

Best money you’ll ever spend.
 
sfdon said:
I think Chris needs to fly in, inspect and drive.

Best money you’ll ever spend.
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Probably!

Helluva an idea - Hadn’t crossed my mind.

Such short notice now,… and about a week out from Christmas & the Holidays.

Perhaps Chris & I can discuss, and when another opportunity presents itself in the future - that could be a plan.
 
I think if you're looking at spending significant money, then you have to put the miles/effort in. So many of these auctions have carefully curated photos - if you know what to hide then if you are careful with camera angles, a lot can be hidden. As for removing rocker covers, I really don't think it helps a lot, given that you are still only looking at the outermost of 3 or 4 other layers of sheet metal - if I come to sell mine at any point, I wouldn't be spending a couple of hours doing this, sorry folks!
 
Looking over this document that @paul cain had linked to a few years back, any updates or thoughts from the group? It seems that removing the sill covers is the part that a truly motivated seller would do, but that a dealer selling the car isn’t going to pursue. Have you seen cars where this part was really rusted out without some other indicator from the other points?
 

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day66 said:
I think if you're looking at spending significant money, then you have to put the miles/effort in. So many of these auctions have carefully curated photos - if you know what to hide then if you are careful with camera angles, a lot can be hidden. As for removing rocker covers, I really don't think it helps a lot, given that you are still only looking at the outermost of 3 or 4 other layers of sheet metal - if I come to sell mine at any point, I wouldn't be spending a couple of hours doing this, sorry folks!
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When I bought on BAT I asked if seller could remove rocker covers and he did. That was what gave me confidence to move ahead with bidding. Sure you’re only seeing the outer layer, but if a coupe was never restored/rebuilt and still has good paint without bubbling after 50 years, seems a pretty good indicator? Or at least as good as you will get without a borescope and/or an expert ppi? And even if somebody like Chris flies out, will they be allowed to remove rocker covers and/or use a borescope?

At the end of the day, it can’t hurt to ask for photos with the rockers removed. Worst they can say is no, and then you can decide whether to get a ppi, or bid with the risk in mind, or wait for the next coupe to be listed.

Considering the info that is easily available here (including that pre-purchase photo checklist that is linked above) I would imagine that a seller taking the hour to remove the rocker covers and take good photos of all rust prone areas would bring confident bidders to an auction.
 
Removing rocker covers requires: removing stainless threshold trim, removing lower door seal which might get compromised, removing upper screws to the sill, removing lower fasteners which could be screws or pop-rivets, removing single screws inside front and rear wheel arches. I did not remove these when I sold my last coupe as I think the restoration pics told the story. It takes a bit of effort so it is rare when a seller agrees to do this. This seller does not know coupes which makes it more challenging.
 
And that driver side rear floor plug looks pretty common, it’s not falling out and it still has original under coating I think, if needed that would be a pretty straight forward repair.

When I buy a car with unknown maintenance history I always rebuild brakes and replace brake hoses, new shocks, new suspension bushings, inspect control arms/track rod/tie rods and replace if movement or rubber severely worn, replace wheel bearings, rebuild CV joints, inspect drive shaft u-joints and center bearing and guibo, change engine/trans/diff fluids, replace all coolant hoses and inspect radiator with an infrared temp gun, replace every fuel hose, performance a tune-up and adjust valves, replace tires if aged out. Expenses can add up quickly.

(Edits added)
 
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HB Chris said:
Removing rocker covers requires: removing stainless threshold trim, removing lower door seal which might get compromised, removing upper screws to the sill, removing lower fasteners which could be screws or pop-rivets, removing single screws inside front and rear wheel arches. I did not remove these when I sold my last coupe as I think the restoration pics told the story. It takes a bit of effort so it is rare when a seller agrees to do this. This seller does not know coupes which makes it more challenging.
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When I bought mine, the seller was having it stored at his mechanic, and the mechanic did it for him and sent the pics.

Then I just removed them myself so I could spray the rocker interiors with rust seal and wax oil. It wasn’t too difficult, although pop-rivets would make it a no-go. And yes, I think if you have restoration photos that would be best. I’m more talking about unrestored coupes like the one currently on BAT.

So Chris, I’m curious - when you’re doing a PPI on an unrestored car, what do you do to inspect for rust? Do you bring a borescope? Or stick your phone up into the sand trap pockets in the fenders? Probe the metal around the strut mounts and fender attachments?
 
I don’t have a bore scope I just look at all of the usual suspects including the wheel well sand trap and coupe needs to be on a lift of course. You can tell a lot from a close up visual inspection. Evidence of maintenance is a good indicator but it will always still be a crap shoot.
 
if you can't get somebody to remove the rocker covers, have them jack the car up with the factory jack front and rear (both sides) - on camera. you will hear the car grunt + groan if the rockers are bad.
 
HB Chris said:
And that driver side rear floor plug looks pretty common, it’s not falling out and it still has original under coating I think, if needed that would be a pretty straight forward repair.

When I buy a car with unknown maintenance history I always rebuild brakes and replace brake hoses, new shocks, new suspension bushings, inspect control arms/track rod/tie rods and replace if movement or rubber severely worn, rebuild CV joints, inspect drive shaft u-joints and center bearing and guibo, change engine/trans/diff fluids, replace all coolant hoses and inspect radiator with an infrared temp gun, replace every fuel hose, performance a tune-up and adjust valves, replace tires if aged out. Expenses can add up quickly.
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That’s a very thorough post-purchase list of items to do - I’m going to keep that handy! I’ve done some of that so far or am in process and will continue to work my way down.
 
When I bought my current Chamonix coupe in 2021 it had been off the road since 1989. Since it had good compression numbers I left the motor alone but replaced everything else, literally! It made a 3,300 mile journey in July of 2024 through New Mexico and Colorado with the Classic CCA group with no issues. The last thing I want to happen is have a mechanical issue far from home and especially with the wife (who drove half of those miles)!
 
Appreciate all the comments & opinions - I’ve learned a few things.

Coming to the conclusion, if I buy a coupe, it’s probably going to be a recent restoration or refurbished car, property done.

I’m traveling today, & between now and the Holidays, things just get busier, therefore want to thank everyone for their thoughts & feedback on this car & all things e9,… & to wish everyone a Merry Christmas & Happy Holiday Season!
 
HB Chris said:
And that driver side rear floor plug looks pretty common, it’s not falling out and it still has original under coating I think, if needed that would be a pretty straight forward repair.

When I buy a car with unknown maintenance history I always rebuild brakes and replace brake hoses, new shocks, new suspension bushings, inspect control arms/track rod/tie rods and replace if movement or rubber severely worn, replace wheel bearings, rebuild CV joints, inspect drive shaft u-joints and center bearing and guibo, change engine/trans/diff fluids, replace all coolant hoses and inspect radiator with an infrared temp gun, replace every fuel hose, performance a tune-up and adjust valves, replace tires if aged out. Expenses can add up quickly.

(Edits added)
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Very interested in the temperature gun evaluation of the radiator, can you describe what you are looking for and how you go about it please?
 
I had also been told that if you have the infrared temp gun out, aim at each exhaust manifold exit to ensure that there is pretty even output. This is in addition to the compression test.
 
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