Pulling front fenders/wings

MyBMWHabit

MyBMWHabit

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Vancouver, Washington
Now that I've managed to get my hands on a proper front glass and gasket from the crew at LaJolla Independent BMW, I'm ready to proceed ahead. My car has some pretty serious rust on the front cowl right by the windshield. And suggestions for doing this right? I'm here in the PNW, and the car will probably rarely if ever be out in the wet once it's done. But I was thinking while I have it apart to spray as much as I can get inside the surfaces with POR 15, etc.

Thoughts?

Also, how hard are the front fenders to remove? Thanks!
 
Fenders are easy to remove. You'll have the 10mm bolts along the top edge and inside the wheel wells. Then cutting the seam sealer that's usually holding it together at the top and leading edges. I just recently put mine back on...:-). Good luck!!
 
MyBMWHabit said:
Now that I've managed to get my hands on a proper front glass and gasket from the crew at LaJolla Independent BMW, I'm ready to proceed ahead. My car has some pretty serious rust on the front cowl right by the windshield. And suggestions for doing this right? I'm here in the PNW, and the car will probably rarely if ever be out in the wet once it's done. But I was thinking while I have it apart to spray as much as I can get inside the surfaces with POR 15, etc.

Thoughts?

Also, how hard are the front fenders to remove? Thanks!
Click to expand...
POR 15 is an interesting product. It cures with exposure to air, and if you need to thin it requires a special thinner. I've found It doesn't do well with UV exposure, getting a mat, lighter grey surface. It does seem to be tough and adhere well so it in it's intended use under the vehicle on suspension or frame is probably reliable. I'm a tad biased against the company however because I bought their gas tank treatment for my car, and now it looks like the inside of my tank has small pox.

My car also has corrosion in the corners of the front and back windows so I'll have to remediate that before I can paint. I may weld in new steel that I fabricate, or possibly fill the pitted surface with lead filler after derusting so I won't have to worry about it going forward.
 
Here's a shot of mine from about 9 years ago...yeah, I've been bit slow...lol. you can get an idea of what you'll be looking at.
bavfender.jpg
 
Yeah, I've used a bunch of POR and Eastwood's rust encapsulator, and they both are pretty great, if used properly, but not meant for UV exposure..some of Eastwood's higher end line is UV stable, but I'm always topcoating it anyway, so all good.
 
Should be a bolt or two also when you have the door open near the hinges.

My approach has been to cut the rust and fabricate a new piece if the rust is deep and the metal compromised. If not, wire wheel, followed by rust converter to get any little bits remaining then rust encapsulator, then 2k primer. I do not do the painting but any remaining paint from the shop I bring to the place that mixed the paint and have them put it in aerosol cans. This last for years and I have touch up paint that is an exact match. Going on 15 years for the E3 and 5 for the E9 with no issues but my cars rarely see rain.
 
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