Nearing restoration and having wiring issues. Does anyone know where I can score a wiring diagram for a '72 CSi? TIA
72 CSi wiring diagram
- Thread starter Chris Reber
- Start date
the wiring diagram is primarily the same as the 3.0cs with the exception of the d-jet. there is a separate d-jet diagram. if you look in the FAQ - there are a couple of threads regarding electrical / relays
How detailed a diagram do you need? I realize that may be a dumb question - “I want the full deal of course” but sometimes the simple colored diagrams like the ones a few people sell online are good for a quick assessment of what colored wire goes where. The blue books have the full detailed wiring diagram, many parts of which have been posted here.
let us know the issues you are having. i have recently taken my 2800cs harness completely apart and know where many of the wires run. i asked a bunch of questions along the way and others chimed in with answers.
if it has to do with d-jet wiring, @sfdon is THE guy to help you ... he knows more than just about anybody.
If you said a Euro '72 it would mean one thing- when say Csi it means something else.
Are you looking for FI wiring schematic?
It's a Euro
Both
I'm assuming it's Euro, since the USA models were carved in '72. Instrument panel is metric.
It appears there are no chassis grounds either. From what I've gathered, there is a ground strap required from block to chassis and valve cover to fender wall? Plus the negative battery post wire. Can I get by with thicker gauge wires while I wait for trying to find original styles?
*Carbureted
I think I'm good with the FI, the car starts but when other wires are hooked up, we're shorting out.. Left tail light has to be unhooked to run.
I did manage to find a color diagram for a CS on an older thread. Hopefully that will help me out. I'm basically going through the whole wiring after it was all removed during a rotisserie resto. I'll post pics soon, after it's cleaned up from the dust.
In the regular Cs diagram you can locate the tail lamp wire and start diagnosing. Which part of the tail light causes the fault? There are three lamps in each tail light. If it is the actual tail lamp then either hooking up the right one will have the same effect (they are connected together), or the issue is in the tail light assembly itself (shorted socket)
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there are grounds all over the car. all solid brown wires are grounds. brown wires with a color stripe generally has a circuit that when completed does something - like the horn ... when you press the button the circuit is completed and the horn blows.
taillight - the ground is on the vertical brace between the spare tire and the fuel tank - near the tail panel. both taillights and a few other items ground there. that being said, there is a brown wire (female spade) that connects to the cast cover that holds all of the bulbs in each taillight and goes to the ground that i mentioned. on euro cars with a rear fog light, the ground also connects to the rear fog.
engine - there should be a ground from the engine to the firewall - above the starter. mine connects to the C tubes of the intake manifold and connects to the tab on the firewall and i use an 8" woven brass flat cable.
battery - there is a flat woven cable that connects the battery to the inner fender tab.
some cars have a long ground from the alternator to the inner fender -
there are a couple of grounds on the interior of the firewall for multiple things
there is a ground near each of the front turn signals to take care of grounds for the lights, turn signals and relays.
taillight - the ground is on the vertical brace between the spare tire and the fuel tank - near the tail panel. both taillights and a few other items ground there. that being said, there is a brown wire (female spade) that connects to the cast cover that holds all of the bulbs in each taillight and goes to the ground that i mentioned. on euro cars with a rear fog light, the ground also connects to the rear fog.
engine - there should be a ground from the engine to the firewall - above the starter. mine connects to the C tubes of the intake manifold and connects to the tab on the firewall and i use an 8" woven brass flat cable.
battery - there is a flat woven cable that connects the battery to the inner fender tab.
some cars have a long ground from the alternator to the inner fender -
there are a couple of grounds on the interior of the firewall for multiple things
there is a ground near each of the front turn signals to take care of grounds for the lights, turn signals and relays.
on the taillight, if the ground is there and good - check the wires around the light switch and hazard relay + switch. perhaps there is a wire with the either the spade insulator that is damaged, a break in one of the wires that is shorting out, or something else. are you blowing fuses when the taillight is plugged in?
restart
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a simple problem.
An addendum to my post above (now that I am sitting at my computer as opposed to composing this on my phone...)
Do you have a multimeter? Measures voltage, current and resistance (at a minimum). If not, go buy one. I recommend Fluke, but really any type will generally do.
For the lamp (or any other) terminal that causes the car to not run when you connect the wire, measure the component's terminal resistance to ground with the wire un-attached. If that resistance is less than about 6 ohms, then there is a short in that compomnent. It is not the wiring, it is the component you are connecting the wiring to.
It is highly unlikely that your wiring got compromised while out of the car unless you specifically changed it. It is possible that you may have cracked some insulation on re-install, but again unlikely. More likely is hooking things up wrong.
When I pulled the wires out of my car I labeled every wire as I disconnected it. Hopefully you did the same. If not get the Blue Book wiring diagram for your car, read the color, codes and connect things accordingly. If in doubt, trace the wire to its source (usually a fuse or a switch) to confirm what wire it is...
It is not mysterious, but it takes patience and attention to detail.
When I put the wiring back in my car I am going to label every single wire at both ends. If you want to do this get a wire lable maker. Every wire has two ends, label them both...
Brady Wire Labeler
Do you have a multimeter? Measures voltage, current and resistance (at a minimum). If not, go buy one. I recommend Fluke, but really any type will generally do.
For the lamp (or any other) terminal that causes the car to not run when you connect the wire, measure the component's terminal resistance to ground with the wire un-attached. If that resistance is less than about 6 ohms, then there is a short in that compomnent. It is not the wiring, it is the component you are connecting the wiring to.
It is highly unlikely that your wiring got compromised while out of the car unless you specifically changed it. It is possible that you may have cracked some insulation on re-install, but again unlikely. More likely is hooking things up wrong.
When I pulled the wires out of my car I labeled every wire as I disconnected it. Hopefully you did the same. If not get the Blue Book wiring diagram for your car, read the color, codes and connect things accordingly. If in doubt, trace the wire to its source (usually a fuse or a switch) to confirm what wire it is...
It is not mysterious, but it takes patience and attention to detail.
When I put the wiring back in my car I am going to label every single wire at both ends. If you want to do this get a wire lable maker. Every wire has two ends, label them both...
Brady Wire Labeler
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