is there a certain brake fluid

I'm running ATE SuperBlue in mine, which is I think a DOT 4 fluid, so it should work fine with regular brake fluid.

why i am asking is
i replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder.
i replaced the fluid with 3 dot . it was ok for a few days
a bit of a weak pedal
and then suddenly there was no more brake pressure
if i pump the pedal goes straight to the floor
only when i turn off the car there is a tiny bit of pressure
that quickly dissipates :oops:
is this something serious?
maybe i messed up the seals in the master? i don't know how...
but who knows
 
why i am asking is
i replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder.
i replaced the fluid with 3 dot . it was ok for a few days
a bit of a weak pedal
and then suddenly there was no more brake pressure
if i pump the pedal goes straight to the floor
only when i turn off the car there is a tiny bit of pressure
that quickly dissipates :oops:
is this something serious?
maybe i messed up the seals in the master? i don't know how...
but who knows

Have you lost a lot of brake fluid?
 
Brake Fluid and seals

In the past brake seals were made of rubber and DOT 3 was specified. HOWEVER, European cars had a different formula than American brake fluid. The only fluid I know of as safe is Castrol LMA that's readily available around the corner. DOT 3 or 4 ( higher boiling point).

Many unsuspecting owners dumped in the generic fluid and seals blew.

Sometime more recently seals changed to synthetic.

AND since the DOT approvals started, supposedly the formulas are compatible with foriegn cars.

Could be you need to rebleed, if you didn't bench bleed the master. You normally don't get enough stroke otherwise to clear out the last chamber.
 
In the past brake seals were made of rubber and DOT 3 was specified. HOWEVER, European cars had a different formula than American brake fluid. The only fluid I know of as safe is Castrol LMA that's readily available around the corner. DOT 3 or 4 ( higher boiling point).

Many unsuspecting owners dumped in the generic fluid and seals blew.

Sometime more recently seals changed to synthetic.

AND since the DOT approvals started, supposedly the formulas are compatible with foriegn cars.

Could be you need to rebleed, if you didn't bench bleed the master. You normally don't get enough stroke otherwise to clear out the last chamber.

that sounded very optimistic.
i'll get a power bleeder. maybe that will take care of my situation :)
thank you
 
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