Stock brake booster removal tips?

boonies

boonies

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I am replacing the brake booster for a different size unit to accommodate the side-draft webers. The BMW factory blue books say it is simple, remove the brake likes, remove the booster, remove the clip and pin on the brake pedal and loosen the nuts holding the booster to the stand-off assembly and move forward.

On my 1972 I have a wide open area as the carbs are off again (long story), but the booster's forward movement is limited by the oil dipstick. It seems like I have two options, remove the dipstick again (dry ice method) or unbolt the engine mount and jack up the engine to gain clearance.

I must be missing something, what advice do you have?
 
You should not need to jack up the engine. @e9Leveque and I just did this yesterday on a Bav.

It does come out once you clear enough forward space in the engine bay. Make sure you have all the brake lines and coolant plumbing safely out of the way.
 
Last edited:
boonies said:
No. I don’t remember a rod under the mount.

The rod from the booster to the brake pedal is still attached, but disconnected from the brake pedal.
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Thata should be enough. Rod can stay attached to the booster. Disconnect from the pedal though
 
When I removed mine from the Chamonix coupe to rebuild it I found a joint with a nut under the booster support that I had to undo to avoid the problem you are having.
 
Thanks Chris, I was trying to cut corners. I had removed the power steering reservoir, but not the bracket and I needed to remove both. After removing the bracket I had enough room to pull it forward and up to clear the brake lines.

I measured and adjusted both the shaft out the back to connect with the brake pedal arm and the button that faces the master cylinder which is adjusted via small washers/spacers.
 
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