Using a QuickJack the first time

Catbert

Catbert

Active Member
Site Donor
Messages
62
Reaction score
47
Location
Signal Hill, CA
Guten tag all! I took a little German in high school so I still remember a few words and phrases. This weekend, I lifted my CSi for the first time using my QuickJack. The QuickJack comes with three lifting block sets, one set which has slots cut into the lifting face. These fit the slotted lift points on our beloved E9s almost perfectly. I am a little anxious anytime I lift a car for the first time. I haven't experienced a disaster yet, but I've come close three times. Now, I can inspect and work on the car in safety and comfort. Oh... I was happy to learn that I do indeed have a limited slip differential. I found no tag or markings to indicate whether or not it was a LS diffy. Since both rear wheels go in the same direction when one wheel is turned, then it is indeed a LS diffy.
IMG_6029.jpeg
IMG_6046.jpeg
 
You don't want to use those pinch weld blocks to lift the car. I too had the same thought, but looking around on the forum it is clear that that weld is not designed to support the weight of the car, even with the slotted rubber blocks. There's a lift point at the rear end of the rocker, right in front of the rear tire, but no corresponding portion on the front end. In addition, the fuel lines run right alongside that "pinch weld" so if you use the blocks you run the risk of crushing the fuel lines where they run on the driver side. In order to use the quick jack you either need to turn them 90 degrees to the car or to use the new crossbeam that QJ release last year. See my thread on using a QJ with the coupe here
e9Leveque

Thread 'Quickjack for an E9 - my experience'

I had a quickjack for my other cars, overall works well, it's convenient if you don't have room for a full 4-post or 2-post lift, and is faster than jacking and placing jack stands, especially if you're going to be working on the car for a while, since you can lower it to access engine bay, interior, etc and then raise it to do stuff underneath the car. Up until recently, however, it wasn't a good option for an E9 because the ideal lifting points are staggered, with the frame rails much more towards the center in the front and then either the subframe or back end of the frame rail more to...
  • Like
 
e9Leveque said:
You don't want to use those pinch weld blocks to lift the car. I too had the same thought, but looking around on the forum it is clear that that weld is not designed to support the weight of the car, even with the slotted rubber blocks. There's a lift point at the rear end of the rocker, right in front of the rear tire, but no corresponding portion on the front end. In addition, the fuel lines run right alongside that "pinch weld" so if you use the blocks you run the risk of crushing the fuel lines where they run on the driver side. In order to use the quick jack you either need to turn them 90 degrees to the car or to use the new crossbeam that QJ release last year. See my thread on using a QJ with the coupe here
e9Leveque

Thread 'Quickjack for an E9 - my experience'

I had a quickjack for my other cars, overall works well, it's convenient if you don't have room for a full 4-post or 2-post lift, and is faster than jacking and placing jack stands, especially if you're going to be working on the car for a while, since you can lower it to access engine bay, interior, etc and then raise it to do stuff underneath the car. Up until recently, however, it wasn't a good option for an E9 because the ideal lifting points are staggered, with the frame rails much more towards the center in the front and then either the subframe or back end of the frame rail more to...
  • Like
Click to expand...
Hmmmm... Great info and thanks for sharing. Using the established lift point areas, I did notice that the QJ lift tilted slightly forward. I've never seen a car or truck do that on this lift. I will take a closer look when I arrive home today and see if the weld points do indeed pose a risk of damaging something.
 
Hate to say it, but when I looked at buying a quickjack I didn't think it was appropriate for our cars.
 
Yes, as detailed in my thread above it works, and I love it for my other cars, but for the E9 I’ve gone back to Jack under diff, Jack under front crossbeam sequentially lifting up front and back then placing Jack stands.
 
Catbert said:
Guten tag all! I took a little German in high school so I still remember a few words and phrases. This weekend, I lifted my CSi for the first time using my QuickJack. The QuickJack comes with three lifting block sets, one set which has slots cut into the lifting face. These fit the slotted lift points on our beloved E9s almost perfectly. I am a little anxious anytime I lift a car for the first time. I haven't experienced a disaster yet, but I've come close three times. Now, I can inspect and work on the car in safety and comfort. Oh... I was happy to learn that I do indeed have a limited slip differential. I found no tag or markings to indicate whether or not it was a LS diffy. Since both rear wheels go in the same direction when one wheel is turned, then it is indeed a LS diffy.View attachment 227803View attachment 227804
Click to expand...
Love that rear spoiler
 
Two comments:
1. I don't see any jack stands under the car. Belt and suspenders could save you from a failed hydraulic device and severe injury. These 3,00 pound cars can inflict massive hurt when you become the jack stand.
2. LSD has the ratio and an S embossed on the passenger side at the rear of the diff. You'll need a light at an angle to see the ratio either 3.64, 3.45, 3.25 or 3.07. Most likely a 3.64 if it is a LSD. The diff number is a larger number on top with the smaller number underneath that divides into the larger number and gives you the result.
Regards, Jon
 
Ives said:
Two comments:
1. I don't see any jack stands under the car. Belt and suspenders could save you from a failed hydraulic device and severe injury. These 3,00 pound cars can inflict massive hurt when you become the jack stand.
2. LSD has the ratio and an S embossed on the passenger side at the rear of the diff. You'll need a light at an angle to see the ratio either 3.64, 3.45, 3.25 or 3.07. Most likely a 3.64 if it is a LSD. The diff number is a larger number on top with the smaller number underneath that divides into the larger number and gives you the result.
Regards, Jon
Click to expand...
Health and safety is always tops on my list when doing just about anything. It didn't occur to me to use jackstands as an added safety measure when lifting a car on the QuickJacks. That's because when lifted, the car rests on the metal framework and not hydraulically. Still, your comment got me to thinking. Beginning today, I will place jackstands at each corner because of your comment and my #1 priority... to live another day. Thanks, Ives. :cool:
 
You're welcome. Too many stories about people who didn't use them. Did you figure out your diff ratio and if the S is there?
Regards, Jon
 
Ives said:
Two comments:
1. I don't see any jack stands under the car. Belt and suspenders could save you from a failed hydraulic device and severe injury. These 3,00 pound cars can inflict massive hurt when you become the jack stand.
2. LSD has the ratio and an S embossed on the passenger side at the rear of the diff. You'll need a light at an angle to see the ratio either 3.64, 3.45, 3.25 or 3.07. Most likely a 3.64 if it is a LSD. The diff number is a larger number on top with the smaller number underneath that divides into the larger number and gives you the result.
Regards, Jon
Click to expand...
A CSi has a 3.25 so 12 39 is stamped
 
Last edited:
Chris,
Were the CSi s stock open or LSD? Having a 5 speed with overdrive in Sixto the only time you need 5th gear is on the freeway. At 2500 rpm in 5th I'm at 75 mph and at 3000rpm it's 90 mph. I'm guessing Catbirt and his M90 would roll at the same numbers.
Regards, Jon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top