heater core peed on my windshield

A

AbnMike

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This morning on way to work. Greasy film all over the inside.

Huge time consuming fix?

Anyone have any success with radiator stop leak additives until I can fix it proper?
 
Bypass can be done with an elbow between the 2 hoses going into the firewall engine side.

Doubt stop leak snake oil would work.
 
Thanks Steve. I'm sitting in a conference so trying to figure out what I'll need to do tonight and what to grab on way home. Don't want to do it wrong and keep fluid from where it needs to go. A 1" 90 degree brass elbow will work?
 
Yes, that's what I used:

IMG-20110330-00189.jpg




AbnMike said:
Thanks Steve. I'm sitting in a conference so trying to figure out what I'll need to do tonight and what to grab on way home. Don't want to do it wrong and keep fluid from where it needs to go. A 1" 90 degree brass elbow will work?
Click to expand...
 
Well I was finally able to find a 3/4" 90 degree coupling which I'll try tomorrow.

However maybe I read too much. I recently changed the coolant in the car and used the greenish Prestone Extended Life for "any" make model. I mixed at about a 60/40 mix since that's what he manual called for.

Now I'm reading I perhaps should have used BMW specific coolant? Any chance that the stuff I used helped cause a leak?

Drove from work today and it wasn't as bad with the heater off as it was this am with the heater/def on (it was raining) so I assume it is just a small weeping somewhere, maybe not the core itself but rings?

Any advice?
 
I lost my heater core a year or so back.

Yes... I did the bypass.
There is a NAPA store near me that indulged my relentless poking at their different heater hoses.

I found one that worked perfectly.
Each end was the right diameter (they are different)
Needed to have a 90 degree turn molded in.
Needed each leg to be (at least) as long as I needed them to be (I could trim off excess).

And I found one that fit perfectly.
I just don't have record of what it is/was.... A few days after I installed it - I know I should have taken down the stock number or something. Sorry...

I don't have that number available.
I just say this to let you know that there is a hose out there that would work for you (an be common enough that even a NAPA in the boonies where I live would stock it)
 
so I assume it is just a small weeping somewhere, maybe not the core itself but rings?
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "rings"? The core is a self contained unit. The air blowing through the fins is picking up leaking coolant and blowing it all over. You will need to remove the center console and then the black plastic heater box. This is not a fun job - but I don't see any other choice - except keep the bypass and forgo heat.

Good luck,
 
Sven said:
What do you mean by "rings"? The core is a self contained unit. The air blowing through the fins is picking up leaking coolant and blowing it all over. You will need to remove the center console and then the black plastic heater box. This is not a fun job - but I don't see any other choice - except keep the bypass and forgo heat.

Good luck,
Click to expand...

I was reading somewhere about there being some rubber rings in the core that could have deteriorated. I've never had one apart...like I said, maybe I read too much (into) things.

Luckily I don't really -need- heat where I am in SoCal but I also don't want anything to not work on this car so evenutally I'll fix it.

Guess I'll be able to get to the clock and fix it, too. The light at the clock works as does the light in the glove box. Only thing that doesn't work is the cigar lighter so I guess I'll work on it, the heater and the clock all at one time.

Are these hard to repair? I know that I'll probably just find a replacement one so i can get the job done in a day, but then I'll have the one that's leaking which I suppose I can get fixed and then sell off?
 
I believe you can still get them new. The unit may be repairable. Although, if they repair the hole(s) and pressure test, then how long until a new hole develops? This task is such a PIA that the risk for me would not be worth it. While you have everything apart is also good time to replace the rotted foam that surrounds the heater core 1/8" neoprene (think wetsuit material) and felt on the baffles and control arms. I used an 1/8" black self adhesive felt (in sheet form) that worked well. Having all this rebuilt and tight will help keep the heat out of the cabin so you don't have to mess with the coolant bi-pass valve options.
 
You have to be very careful on what coolant you use especially with an aluminum head engine. Most anti freeze have contents very corosive to an aluminum head. Zerex5 is good, most other NG
 
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