Trev
Member
My clutch when out last weekend. I was able to get it home and get it into the garage. I can still get into gear but its a pain, I'm assuming its best to have it towed to the shop and not try and drive it there myself. Thoughts?
Clutch?
- Thread starter Trev
- Start date
In LA, for sure, AAA to the rescue. Have them flat-bed it and good luck.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Well Trev, I see you're new here, and we have no idea of your mechanical capabilities. Let me suggest that a clutch usually doesn't suddenly "go out" as you stated. What's more likely is a gradual loss of fluid in the reservoir, or a leaking clutch master or slave cylinder.
Before you call an expensive flatbed towtruck, a little diagnosis is likely to save you some coin. A more detailed description is what's needed.
If you're not mechanically capable or for whatever reason unlikely to do some work yourself, then and only then should a truck be called. We are here to help but need something more specific from which to give useful advice. These cars have been around a while, and so have many of their owners, and we know where and how the common faults occur.
Before you call an expensive flatbed towtruck, a little diagnosis is likely to save you some coin. A more detailed description is what's needed.
If you're not mechanically capable or for whatever reason unlikely to do some work yourself, then and only then should a truck be called. We are here to help but need something more specific from which to give useful advice. These cars have been around a while, and so have many of their owners, and we know where and how the common faults occur.
+1 check fluid level and if any leaks around the clutch master and/or slave cylinder.
Trev
Member
It sorta did just go. I was driving it on Saturday and everything was fine, I park it for 10 minutes and when I got back in and pressed down on the clutch I could tell something was off, it had very little resistance and I could barely get the car in gear. It really was all very sudden.
Unfortunately I'm not mechanically inclined but didn't seem like a fluid thing because it was so sudden and the car is garage kept so I would have noticed a fluid leak I would think.
Unfortunately I'm not mechanically inclined but didn't seem like a fluid thing because it was so sudden and the car is garage kept so I would have noticed a fluid leak I would think.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
What could cause the clutch to "go out"? Let's look at the typical symptoms, which you don't have to be a Class A Mechanic to observe.
First check the fluid level in the combined brake and clutch reservoir under the hood on the left inner fender. The reservoir is a nearly transparent cylinder with a black cap about 1-1/2 inches in diameter, with two wires coming from it. There are two marks on the side of the reservoir, one for "full" actually about 3/4 inch down from the top, and another low down for "empty". Brake fluid in the reservoir should be between the two marks. If the fluid is low, your red brake warning light should be illuminated on the dash. It also illuminates when you pull up the hand brake, so that's how you can tell which indicator it is.
Next, look under the car for a sign of a fluid drip, just forward of the pedals. Drip = clutch master cylinder leak .
Next, look for wetness in the carpet just behind the clutch pedal. Wetness there = clutch master cylinder leak.
If the fluid level is okay, and there is no sign of leaks under the car or carpet wetness, you'll probably have a failed clutch master cylinder or failed clutch slave cylinder. Your mechanic will be able to tell which, and replace. The cylinders can be rebuilt but with cars this age, better to replace. Your mechanic if he's any good, will steer you away from a rebuild. Rebuilds are not always to be trusted.
I'm about to replace both master and slave cylinders in my 2002, tomorrow. I could rebuild if when I take them apart they are not badly internally corroded, but I decided to replace, on a car I'm about to sell to a friend.
If you ask, we can steer you to parts sources, but your mechanic should be able to get the needed parts.
Again: we're here to help, if you relate your problem and symptoms.
First check the fluid level in the combined brake and clutch reservoir under the hood on the left inner fender. The reservoir is a nearly transparent cylinder with a black cap about 1-1/2 inches in diameter, with two wires coming from it. There are two marks on the side of the reservoir, one for "full" actually about 3/4 inch down from the top, and another low down for "empty". Brake fluid in the reservoir should be between the two marks. If the fluid is low, your red brake warning light should be illuminated on the dash. It also illuminates when you pull up the hand brake, so that's how you can tell which indicator it is.
Next, look under the car for a sign of a fluid drip, just forward of the pedals. Drip = clutch master cylinder leak .
Next, look for wetness in the carpet just behind the clutch pedal. Wetness there = clutch master cylinder leak.
If the fluid level is okay, and there is no sign of leaks under the car or carpet wetness, you'll probably have a failed clutch master cylinder or failed clutch slave cylinder. Your mechanic will be able to tell which, and replace. The cylinders can be rebuilt but with cars this age, better to replace. Your mechanic if he's any good, will steer you away from a rebuild. Rebuilds are not always to be trusted.
I'm about to replace both master and slave cylinders in my 2002, tomorrow. I could rebuild if when I take them apart they are not badly internally corroded, but I decided to replace, on a car I'm about to sell to a friend.
If you ask, we can steer you to parts sources, but your mechanic should be able to get the needed parts.
Again: we're here to help, if you relate your problem and symptoms.
rodspock
Well-Known Member
Trev,
It sounds like you have a clutch actuation problem.
If it is hard to get in gear when the car is running (due to not being able to fully disengage the clutch) and easy to get in gear when the engine is stopped. It is likely you have a clutch actuation problem.
If the clutch has not been slipping during recent driving, it is unlikely there is anything wrong with the clutch plates.
Start with bleeding the clutch.
Cheers,
Rod
It sounds like you have a clutch actuation problem.
If it is hard to get in gear when the car is running (due to not being able to fully disengage the clutch) and easy to get in gear when the engine is stopped. It is likely you have a clutch actuation problem.
If the clutch has not been slipping during recent driving, it is unlikely there is anything wrong with the clutch plates.
Start with bleeding the clutch.
Cheers,
Rod
Clutch master and/or slave issue
Trev,
I had the exact same symptom.
drove the car without any problem.
the next time I got in the car the clutch pedal was mushy. Upon inspection the master was leaking. Rebuilt master and replaced slave. The clutch now works better than ever.
As long as you trust your mechanic then my bet is he will tell you that this it the issue.
+1 to check the fluid level and try and put a little time into problem diagnosis before you hand it over to a shop.
fyi, the guys that have already responded are significantly more knowlegable than I. We all seem to agree the likelyhood is high the the clutch itself may not be the issue.
Trev,
I had the exact same symptom.
drove the car without any problem.
the next time I got in the car the clutch pedal was mushy. Upon inspection the master was leaking. Rebuilt master and replaced slave. The clutch now works better than ever.
As long as you trust your mechanic then my bet is he will tell you that this it the issue.
+1 to check the fluid level and try and put a little time into problem diagnosis before you hand it over to a shop.
fyi, the guys that have already responded are significantly more knowlegable than I. We all seem to agree the likelyhood is high the the clutch itself may not be the issue.
Which is one way to get to a rusted out floor pan
because you don't find the leak for months. Happened to my zero rust, low mileage E-type. Clutch master must have been leaking for a year. I did add fluid once, but thought it was going into the vacuum unit. Wrong, it was under the carpeting where the pedals are. Ate a hole in the floor. Cost $1k to cut out that section and butt weld in a correctly made patch.
I swear, I'm going over to silicon fluid the next time I do any major hydraulics work on any of my cars...
because you don't find the leak for months. Happened to my zero rust, low mileage E-type. Clutch master must have been leaking for a year. I did add fluid once, but thought it was going into the vacuum unit. Wrong, it was under the carpeting where the pedals are. Ate a hole in the floor. Cost $1k to cut out that section and butt weld in a correctly made patch.
I swear, I'm going over to silicon fluid the next time I do any major hydraulics work on any of my cars...