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Alpine gauge pod
- Thread starter D Calkins
- Start date
Rouge
Active Member
Pour ma part j'utilise un capteur VDO qui est fixé sur le support de filtre à huile
Personally, I use a VDO sensor that's mounted on the oil filter bracket.
Personally, I use a VDO sensor that's mounted on the oil filter bracket.
Yes, I kept the idiot light but used a sender that allowed discrete measurement as well as light trigger. I have it screwed into the back of the cylinder head. Initially I wanted to use an extension hose and put it a bit more over towards the drivers side because I was worried it would be hard to mount the larger sender with the limited space back there, which ended up being true, but what was even harder was finding an extension hose that would fit two metric ends (one male and one female) and was actually designed to handle standard oil pressure, so no extension hose in the end.
I purchased this but I can't get the adapter screwed in far enough so the 1/8 NPt threads are pointed up so I can install the idiot light sender
Rouge
Active Member
J'avais imaginé ce montage et c'est la raison pour laquelle je n'ai pas choisi cette option. Toutefois, avez vous essayé d'ajouter une rondelle pour décaler la position de votre pièce au serrage ?
I had envisioned this setup, which is why I didn't choose that option. However, have you tried adding a washer to offset the position of your part when tightening?
I had envisioned this setup, which is why I didn't choose that option. However, have you tried adding a washer to offset the position of your part when tightening?
I purchased this but I can't get the adapter screwed in far enough so the 1/8 NPt threads are pointed up so I can install the idiot light sender
Had the same problem which is why I purchased a sender that could do both rather than having two senders.
Good idea, thinner sealing washer may do the trick
Where did you get your dual sender?
i bought the same sender as @e9Leveque from VDO, it doesn't require an adapter and has 2 connections for wires.
My gadgets pod didn't fit the way I thought it should. There was 2mm of sloppy left to right so I made a new wider one out of CRS and I made it. 25 inches thick so it fits flush. I just finished gluing in some magnets to hold it in place, instead of screws for a cleaner look. Here is the new panel that I just finished applying Cerakote to.
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I will ask Tim @ discount gauges what my options are.
I will try to find the information on the sender that I got. As I recall, it was either the sender or the gauge that Tim didn’t have any more, and I needed to find it from an alternate location.
I have an old Porsche 911 gauge & sender with two posts. How do I determine if they are compatible?
Here’s the info on the sender I bought
360-007 - VDO Sender 80PSI
VDO Pressure Sender
gaugesvdo.com
360-007 - VDO Sender 80PSI
VDO Pressure Sender
- Max Pressure: 80 PSI
- Warning Contact: 8.5 PSI
- Voltage: 6V - 24V
- Ohm Range: 10Ω - 180Ω
- Thread: M12 x 1.5
- Ground: Standard
- Connection: 2x Knurled Nut
- Click Here for installation instructions
360-007 - VDO Sender 80PSI - 360-007 - VDO - Gauges VDO from Vehicle Controls
360-007 - VDO Pressure Sender, Max Pressure: 80 PSI, Warning Contact: 8.5 PSI, Ohm Range: 10Ω - 180Ω, Voltage: 6V - 24V, Thread: M12 x 1.5, Ground: Standard, Connection: Knurled Nut VDO Senders and Sensors: Using the expertise we’ve gained in developing solutions for many of the world’s leading...
gaugesvdo.com
Thanks, I just ordered one. Can these share a common ground and power?
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And David, I think I had posted some pictures of my gauge set but it was in another thread, I would highly recommend having that gauge unit have all of its wires go through a connector so that the unit can be easily removed if you want to go back to speaker or need to do any modifications. Simple and makes future you happy. For that matter if the speaker wire is still there I would terminate it in a connector rather than pulling it out but that’s me.
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You can see there that I also ran the lighting power through a relay with the trigger being the first pull on the headlight switch that turns on city lights. That’s perhaps a slight modification to the wiring Scott described above, I think he may have had the power coming directly from the same circuit rather than relayed. It’s the same overall routing, just depends on whether you have the space or desire for a relay which would also involve running another wire directly to battery power or pulling tap at fusebox main.