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Thanks for the heads up on this. I do need a new gasket in the near future so I'll put in an order and hope that they'll make a new batch before I need it.

Only the sequence is fixed, not the location of the cylinders on the cap. The others are right, remove the cap and look for the mark on the rim of the distributor--it will correspond (within a few degrees) to the terminal for cylinder #1.

Mine is concave over the bushing (like the blue arc in picture 2)...so hopefully that is the right answer.

Took my exhaust manifolds off today to replace the bolts the PO used with proper studs and discovered they had put 3 of the gaskets on upside down so the gaskets were partially covering the exhaust ports on the head. I'm also convinced one of the ports didn't have a gasket on it, although I did...

Edit: removed duplicate post. The page didn't update after my first post and I resubmitted.

Isn't SAE M a motorcycle light? I think technically they aren't approved for automotive use (but I sure see them marketed that way a lot).

I am running vacuum advance. I figure I'll start at the factory settings and then adjust from there. The default curve on the 123ignition wasn't enough to start the car (advance didn't start until 1000 rpm) so once I had to change that I figured I shouldn't really trust the baseline.

I have the single volume version dated '2.69'.

Thank you! I do have the Blue Book, but my copy doesn't have US-specific information so I appreciate you posting that.

Does anyone have the advance curve for the 0 231 162 002 distributor used in the 2800? I'm configuring a 123ignition distributor in my Bavaria and thought I had found the curve a couple months ago, but I can't find it now.

In my experience the shipping costs from W&N are pretty close to flat rate (I've never ordered anything especially heavy from them, but I assume at some point the costs go up). I maintain a list of "nice to haves" so I can pad out orders in cases like this. FWIW, their shipping used to be...

I haven't taken my clock out before , but I peeked up there with a camera today and I see two plastic nuts by the clock, a big one for the trim and a smaller one I assume for the clock (and probably another pair on the other side, but there wasn't enough light for me to get a picture).

Sanity check me here, because this is based on my knowledge of 02s rather than the 2800CS, but the brakes look the same... Do you see the two pins sticking through the brake shoes about 1/3 of the way down? Those are eccentric and move the shoes in and out. On the opposite side of the backing...

That's OK, Amazon messed up the author details... About the Author Sean Taylor is a children's author, storyteller and teacher with experience of creative writing teaching in three continents. His books include The Great Snake, Purple Class and the Skelington, Purple Class and the Flying Spider...

New ones are NLA so I'm going to have to track down a used one.

It looks like it is only E3s and E9s through 9/73.

I need an early (231mm) radius rod to replace the bent one on my '71 Bavaria.

Answering my own question: now that I've removed the other side I know the answer is "no"...the rod should be flat.

The radius rod (tension strut) isn't supposed to be bent in this plane, is it? Assuming it isn't, does anyone have a good one for sale? And here I thought I was going to get away with just refreshing the front end bushings and control arms on my car...