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A sad way to treat an e9.

Castrol GTX Classic is another oil from a mainstream supplier that contains zinc. I definitely agree with that, especially on a carbureted car where carbon deposits get into the oil.

Rear windows with the original motors can be tough to keep working. Basically, the motors lose torque, the grease on the window tracks hardens, and if the regulators aren't perfectly aligned, the motors just don't have enough oomph to raise the windows. Lots has been written on e9coupe.com...

The dealer offering this car - The Auto Kennel - has been around for a long time, has a positive reputation and is well-known here in Orange County. Paul Kramer, the owner, is more of a Porsche guy, but gets the occasional BMW, Mercedes, Alfa, ... I guess Paul uses Ebay because he doesn't like...

The "door" that you need to open is all the way to the left (as you sit in the driver's seat) and has a chrome push button on it. The latch isn't exactly a precision mechanism - they often take some jiggling to open. The advice to "push upward, push left, push right, ..." is good.

In 2014, Arde had suggested a modification of the turn signal / flasher circuit to make it more resilient to the frailties of these switches (*). I have a schematic for the earlier, 7-pin flashers (which is what my '70 e9 has) that shows this modification. I tried to post it here, but ran into...

I don't think that there is much question that within BMW, the styling cues evolved from the 3200 CS --> 2000 CS --> E9. BMW hired Bertone to design the 3200 CS, and Bertone gave the job to Giorgetto Giugiaro (you can read about it here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3200_CS ). This story...

(not relevant)

I asked a similar question last month and was directed to a thread in the Frequently Asked Questions section. Admittedly, many of the sources listed are in the US, but the list is pretty exhaustive and well organized. See...

Hmm. If that's what Pflyer meant, then steel wooling his nipple makes a little more sense. Squeezing down the female connector on the wire to tighten the connection might help as well.

OK, glad to hear that you are making progress and don't have to crawl behind the dash to change the bulb. However, steel wooling the contacts isn't going to do anything; that'll just make the light shine brighter. It sounds like your sensor is permanently showing low oil pressure (e.g...

... which makes it easy to determine whether the problem is the bulb or the sender: just pull the connector off the sender while the ignition is on and touch it to ground while a helper monitors the bulb. If it glows, the bulb is good and sender bad. If it doesn't glow, the bulb (or socket, or...

Pop rivets work well for this application. It's kind of slick the way the rubber will re-attach itself to the metal strip when you manipulate it as Brieti describes. But doing the rear bumper is a little tricky, since you need to start in the center and then stuff the outer ends of the rubber...

No, I wouldn't agree with that at all. As with painting a car, the expense in re-chroming is in the preparation. A smooth surface can "just" be dipped in the tank that removes the old plating and then dipped in the tanks that add the new plating. Sure, it isn't that simple - there is also...

Yes, I did run a die over the studs, as they were a little beaten up. The last thing I wanted to have happen was to have a nut jam on a stud while bolting things back together and shear off the stud!

I got some inexpensive Dremel cut-off wheels from Amazon and attacked the four inner nuts on my two, front overriders. Slicing through the nuts was a little tedious and the studs did get wounded in the process, but the rusted nuts came loose and the studs are good enough to still retain the...

I wouldn't equate over-engineering with "better" engineering. Sub-optimal is sub-optimal, whichever side of perfection you are on. In the case cited, excessively heavy connecting rods limit top RPM, put unnecessary loads on the crankshaft and (most importantly in the 21st Century) detract from...

This would be a good topic for its own thread. After turning 70 five years ago, I hadn't done much automotive work - just lost the desire to crawl under cars. But, my e9 was getting a bit shabby and I slowly began to tear into it early this summer. After awhile, I got into a rhythm, and now...

I'm not getting what takes CNC machining, CAD imaging, welding, etc. etc. to bolt E28 motor-gearboxes to E9 regulators. Kurt DiLimon wrote up a simple procedure 10 + years ago that's available at: https://sites.google.com/site/kdelimon/windowmotorconversion1 I have followed Kurt's directions...

Yes, that works on the rear rubber pieces because they are "L" shaped. I've already broken the studs on my rear pieces, and have drilled them for sheet metal screws. But the fronts are "U" shaped and the troublesome hardware is on the inner part of the "U" where it is less accessable (my nut...