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Rick: Were you referring to Paulaner's photo duplicated below? Yes, the backside of that looks like the usual connector. But I believe that only one of those wires goes to the type of 1/4" wide female connector that fits both sides of Paulaner's new bulbs. The other wire goes to some surface...

OK, so this issue only exists on the inner lights, which just have a single filament, so need only 2 connections: (power and ground). And both your old and new bulbs are halogen, so don't need any external circuitry (as LED bulbs sometimes do). So I think the issue boils down to your having...

I have no idea what a "diode converter" is, but let me ask some more basic questions: - Are your old lights incandescent or halogen. Or, are they LED? - Do your existing sockets just have one terminal as well? If so, I'm guessing that they have been replaced, since all bulbs back in the 1970s...

I agree with Fritzie. Bonding is nice, but I don't think I'd trust my life to it.

I agree with Chris: it will be in the way. Just lube it up with something like spray silicone and it will slip out of and back into the boot with a little persuading and wiggling. One of the easier steps in this ordeal.

Glad to hear that the long nut idea worked for someone else. I was able to start mine using my fingers, since they're so easy to grip, before using the socket & extension for final tightening. But threading a long, 5 mm bolt + nut into its top is a great idea.

And why do you say that? Because the handles made the installation more difficult? Because you never use them, so things would look cleaner without them?

Breti is right: Koni reds are their "street" shocks. They are adjustable, so setting them 1 or 1-1/2 turns from full soft should be good for normal street use. Koni yellows are their more "competition" product.

Breiti: It's great that you were able to install your fuel filler door so easily, while everyone else in this thread struggled to get it done. But tell me: did you do it with the black rubber boot in place?

At one point (while I was pretty far down one of those blind alleys) I thought about notching the forward hole. But once I realized the problem with the elephant skin fabric getting in the way, which made the studs appear too short, I backed off on that. An advantage of the notch would be that...

I just finished re-installing my fuel filler door and can attest that it is a miserable job. Now that I have done it, I could probably do it again a lot quicker; much of the time that I spent involved going down blind alleys. There are two challenges to this job: 1) Getting the door into...

The more examples that I see of the 2000CS, the greater my appreciation of it as being something more than just the "beta version" of the e9. I am assuming that the green car featured in the Petrolicious video is a US delivery car because it has four, conventional, round headlights, rather than...

$5,500 but "Needs a new engine". Maryland plate on the back, two different California plates on the front shown in two of the pictures, so registration status is ?? Body/paint looks very nice, no shots of interior.

With the regulator still in place, you wouldn't be able to move the window manually. The mechanical advantage that the regulator's reduction gears utilize when driven by the motor becomes a DIS-advantage when you are applying force to the window. Your best bet is to rotate the shaft going into...

OK, terrific. Will you recommend a specific thickness of carb-to-manifold insulator, or will the linkage work with a variety of insulator dimensions? I ask because the stock linkage will go over-center when used with Weber carburetors and too thin (or was it too thick?) insulators.

Yes, I can believe that. So you're saying that neither the Zeniths nor Webers rely on the diaphragm for functional reasons, just an attempt to slightly reduce emissions. I doubt that many e9's are currently subject to emissions tests - none would be in our home state - so eliminating that...

Hal: The arm & tab for the diaphragm probably isn't necessary. I have Webers on my car and removed that diaphragm many years ago; it works fine without it. Perhaps they were more critical with the original Zenith carburetors. I have been monitoring you website from time to time, checking...

My next step would be to check if the coil is firing. With a coil resistance of 3.8 Ω and an electronic ignition that may have gotten fried, I would verify spark next.

Do you have an electronic ignition, such as a 123 distributor or a Pertronix? Is your car carbureted or does it have electronic fuel injection? Solid state devices are sensitive to the voltage spikes that a welder can produce.

Hmm... $368.50 per side excluding VAT at this morning's exchange rate (plus shipping, tariffs, yadda yadda). It's tempting.