1971 3.0 CSI Restoration

[Rogern]

Hi guys,
Just started the restoration of my 71-csi. I do have some other cars that needs maintenance from time to time, so this will be a project over some years.
The car was completly dismantled, but all parts seems to be there and then some.

My plan is to keep the car original, exept some bigger wheels and maybe some lowering springs.

Some pictures of the car before dismanteling

Some pictures from when i picked it up.

 

[Rogern]

Since the right tower is already off the car i tried som rust remover from Bilt Hamber. Its powder to mix with water. I heated up the water before leting the part soak for 48 hours.

After pressure washing it. Still had to sand blast it where there was som loose rust so the fluid couldnt reach. Still some impressive stuff.

 

[eriknetherlands]

Nice to see you rescue another e9.

Love how the chrome contrasts with the dark color. Is the color Malaga?

Wouldn't just sandblasting the part have saved you some time?
When I got myself a small sandblasting cabinet, I basically quit using the rust converter.

 

[Rogern]

Nice to see you rescue another e9.

Love how the chrome contrasts with the dark color. Is the color Malaga?

Wouldn't just sandblasting the part have saved you some time?
When I got myself a small sandblasting cabinet, I basically quit using the rust converter.

Yes, the color is Malaga. Not 100% sure if i want to keep it, but I have some years to make up my mind.
Blast cabinet is on my wish list, would like to buy one that can fit the rear subframe but they are expensive.
Now I use a gun with with multiple rubber nozzles and a bag below to collect the sand. (Not sure what the english word is for it)

 

[Rogern]

Have bought some parts from Wallothnesch and planned on starting with right footweel/inner fender and tower.
Need to complete the inner sill first.

First attempt in beading? machine. Not so easy to get a straight line, but this will be inside the sill. Better luck next time

The brake line bracket did hide some rust.

Bracket are still in rust converter bath.
Amazing how time consuming this is, but one step closer.

 

[Oldbmwcoupes]

Great work, keep up the patience!

 

[Breiti]

If you have a hand driven beading machine, you better ask a second person who is driving this.
You have to hold and lead the sheet with both hands.
Looks like you use a sand blaster as well.
I recommend you to buy a restriction welder for much better results in the finish. Best invest I did so far.

Breiti

 

[Rogern]

If you have a hand driven beading machine, you better ask a second person who is driving this.
You have to hold and lead the sheet with both hands.
Looks like you use a sand blaster as well.
I recommend you to buy a restriction welder for much better results in the finish. Best invest I did so far.

Breiti

Thank you for the tip, will ask for some help next time. Restriction welder? Is that TIG?
I use MIG and yes there is a lot of grinding to make it perfect.
Try to sand blast the areas before welding and paint. I use Wurth Europax welding primer between plates.

 

[Breiti]

No I mean this.

You make spots like original.
No need to sand and "fake" original weld points.

Breiti

 

[Rogern]

Totally agree, definitely should get one of those. At least were the spot welds shows like outer sills, shock towers, etc.

Question. Is there supposed to be some sort of reinforcement on this panel? On my car there is a homemade piece. Was there ever an original one?

 

[sfdon]

Does this help?

 

[Breiti]

That reinforcement is original.

But it's just a triangle you can bend yourself from a sheet.

Breiti

 

[Rogern]

Thank you