2800CSA Restomod in Oz

JohnFBD

Well-Known Member
Messages
153
Reaction score
55
Location
Sydney, Australia
Picked up a pretty tatty 1970 e9 here in Sydney, previous owner was Mr Magoo! Bodywork will be challanging, engine choice and suspension even more. So the work begins, wish me luck, oh and I have named the car von Trapp (more like money trap me thinks). The car was stipped and went to the chemical bath over a month ago, that proof coat (and plenty of filler) took some shifting!
 

Attachments

  • 20161018_032351018_iOS.jpg
    20161018_032351018_iOS.jpg
    93.9 KB · Views: 468
  • 20161018_032420640_iOS.jpg
    20161018_032420640_iOS.jpg
    90.8 KB · Views: 428
This was after 5 week in the soup! She has had a hard life, apart from the rust, Mr Magoo pretty much hit every panel. Well at least I have a clean car to work on so this week I set about removing panels so I can get at the repairs, I'll save what I can but still have a ton of parts coming from W&N where the rust has taken it's toll!
 

Attachments

  • 20161124_233956597_iOS.jpg
    20161124_233956597_iOS.jpg
    77 KB · Views: 465
  • 20161124_234004435_iOS.jpg
    20161124_234004435_iOS.jpg
    96.2 KB · Views: 456
  • 20161124_234034671_iOS.jpg
    20161124_234034671_iOS.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 468
  • 20161124_234042175_iOS.jpg
    20161124_234042175_iOS.jpg
    85.4 KB · Views: 454
  • 20161124_234054769_iOS.jpg
    20161124_234054769_iOS.jpg
    89 KB · Views: 506
First things first, I really need to brace this car and get the tram gauge on it, luckily it's pretty straight with only light impact damage signs.
The rest of this week was spent removing the fenders, nose and quarters, the nose had been replaced at some stage and had only been bronze brazed on! (cheap insurance work no doubt!)
Pretty daunting when I look at the amount of repair work, but I have seen worse ones so I'll need to suck it up and get stuck in, these cars are worth saving.
 

Attachments

  • 20161201_040110259_iOS.jpg
    20161201_040110259_iOS.jpg
    98.2 KB · Views: 481
  • 20161130_003455833_iOS.jpg
    20161130_003455833_iOS.jpg
    92.9 KB · Views: 513
  • 20161130_003502069_iOS.jpg
    20161130_003502069_iOS.jpg
    84.2 KB · Views: 477
  • 20161130_003510174_iOS.jpg
    20161130_003510174_iOS.jpg
    86.7 KB · Views: 481
  • 20161130_015057076_iOS.jpg
    20161130_015057076_iOS.jpg
    103.6 KB · Views: 510
  • 20161130_015123125_iOS.jpg
    20161130_015123125_iOS.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 462
  • 20161201_035914522_iOS.jpg
    20161201_035914522_iOS.jpg
    97.3 KB · Views: 483
  • 20161201_040110259_iOS.jpg
    20161201_040110259_iOS.jpg
    98.2 KB · Views: 477
  • 20161202_012106964_iOS.jpg
    20161202_012106964_iOS.jpg
    100.1 KB · Views: 492
Last edited:
Hi
Oh, how nice to weld in this clean body

But come the bath access everywhere
saw some pictures with some rust
Do you think I might remove the front ,fenders before the dip?

This must I do before my big welding job,
I'll see how much is left after

Sincerely Daniel
 
Thinking about getting my car chemically dipped as well, my only concern would be after getting it dipped its down to bare metal all the little cracks and holes etc will now be down to bare metal and exposed. Might be impossible to get the epoxy primer on every square inch of the car in all the little holes etc....
 
What I have understood on this side of the water
In England and Germany so can the companies as acid dipping bodies
also dip into primer
so when you have welded parts
For example, all but the outer shell , you can dip into weldable primer
and then you can continue the welding work
 
What I have understood on this side of the water
In England and Germany so can the companies as acid dipping bodies
also dip into primer
so when you have welded parts
For example, all but the outer shell , you can dip into weldable primer
and then you can continue the welding work
Makes sense, the company locally to me does the acid dip but not the primer dip...
 
Near is the relatively

In Sweden, this procedure is not permitted for environmental reasons
so I need to drive to Norway or Germany
a trip of at least 600km
but I think it's worth it
it facilitates and enables fine welding jobs
 
Hi
Oh, how nice to weld in this clean body

But come the bath access everywhere
saw some pictures with some rust
Do you think I might remove the front ,fenders before the dip?

This must I do before my big welding job,
I'll see how much is left after

Sincerely Daniel
The car was went through several processes, the main one being an environmentally safe alkaline bath. The car is finally coated with a rust preventive chemical to prevent rusting as it's amazing how quickly surface oxidations occurs. As I am deconstructing much of the car I can access these places (a quick deoxidisation removed that rust in the pictures) which I will prime with something like POR15.
 
Hi
Oh, how nice to weld in this clean body

But come the bath access everywhere
saw some pictures with some rust
Do you think I might remove the front ,fenders before the dip?

This must I do before my big welding job,
I'll see how much is left after

Sincerely Daniel
The chemical should get all the proof coat and rust off with the fenders on, they charge a premium for Porsche and BMW because it is a pain to remove! I just didn't want to have to clean everything to find all the spot welds etc!
 
Meanwhile I have stripped the S54 motor that will be powering von Trapp, it was an SMG car with 120K on the clock but still I want to ensure it's all good.
 

Attachments

  • 20161023_225745380_iOS.jpg
    20161023_225745380_iOS.jpg
    111 KB · Views: 400
Front end work continues, all a bit of a mess with some nasty previous repairs!
 

Attachments

  • 20161205_044725702_iOS.jpg
    20161205_044725702_iOS.jpg
    149.2 KB · Views: 447
  • 20161208_231021115_iOS.jpg
    20161208_231021115_iOS.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 474
  • 20161208_234901568_iOS.jpg
    20161208_234901568_iOS.jpg
    131.1 KB · Views: 425
  • 20161211_233150789_iOS.jpg
    20161211_233150789_iOS.jpg
    128.1 KB · Views: 454
  • 20161213_072939652_iOS.jpg
    20161213_072939652_iOS.jpg
    112.4 KB · Views: 451
  • 20161213_072950158_iOS.jpg
    20161213_072950158_iOS.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 464
  • 20161213_073003620_iOS.jpg
    20161213_073003620_iOS.jpg
    73.1 KB · Views: 444
Last edited:
Looking good John, looks like you had a big spend at W/N but ultimately a lot cheaper than fabrication from scratch.

John
 
More previous hack repairs to deal with on the left A pillar, waiting on t new lower bulkhead panel from W&N so I can box this up.
 

Attachments

  • 20161215_043150887_iOS.jpg
    20161215_043150887_iOS.jpg
    146.9 KB · Views: 390
  • 20161215_235835997_iOS.jpg
    20161215_235835997_iOS.jpg
    136.6 KB · Views: 400
Managed to save the left inner fender, removed the unwanted brackets and filled the all them holes. The W&N top mount patch panel is a great fit!
 

Attachments

  • 20161215_043217097_iOS.jpg
    20161215_043217097_iOS.jpg
    75.4 KB · Views: 411
Meanwhile in S54 land the engine freshen up continues, a set of OE std piston rings is over AUD$2000! So got myself a set of Mahle's from Lang Racing (+.25). The con rods have been crack tested and good, so will just do the valve collets, bearings, chain and tensioner.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140802_142737_zpsdz9ddggo__91683.1407892200.220.220.jpg
    IMG_20140802_142737_zpsdz9ddggo__91683.1407892200.220.220.jpg
    9.4 KB · Views: 368
Back
Top