3.0Si Fuel injection

Daxklynsmith

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Gentlemen, Help!!!
Buddy has taken on a 73 3.0Si (Euro)
Car starts runs reasonably well, then sputters ,runs on less cylinders etc.. and uses 5 gallons in less than 5 miles.
done all the obvious,Coil, points plugs condenser,leads, rotor arm,cap is ok, cold start injector in or out makes no difference, drain fuel,dry tank, fuel filter, but plugs get very very wet.

Thoughts please?
Car stood for 10 years,
 

Sven

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I would consider pulling the injectors and having them tested / cleaned. Sounds like they may be stuck open or not closing all the way leading to excessive fuel dumping into the cylinders.
 

Bwana

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Yes, I think you can. I had my OEM injectors cleaned and flow checked by a professional injection service here in Houston and had a big improvement. Don't know what happens if the solenoids are bad
 

Daxklynsmith

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It appears the first culprit is the vacuum unit part number 0280100030, the diaphragm is faulty, Bosch DE do a heritage repair service but we are going to try and source one from a parts car nearby to test and see what else may be wrong.
 

Daxklynsmith

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things are getting slowly better but not perect yet.
car starts and revs when cold but as soon as it gets warm it loses timing, wont rev etc...

the mechanic who is checking the system has been running through this:
"Throttle valve switch
Remove air cleaner and place a .016" (.41 mm) feeler gauge between boss and stop screw.
Connect voltmeter to terminal No. 17 on throttle valve switch and ground. Loosen switch retaining screws enough to move switch. Turn switch counterclockwise to its stop.
Voltmeter reading should be zero volt. Now turn throttle switch clockwise and tighten
retaining screws exactly at point a reading is noted on voltmeter"

when he turns switch counterclockise to its stop he gets 12 volts rather than zero and and as he turns it clockwise the reading reduces to zero.
In other words, are the instructions the wrong way around?
http://w107.pbworks.com/f/DJetronic.pdf
 
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