7 prong hazard switch

thedazeofrain

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Hey all, after using the search function for a while I didn’t notice anyone who has a hazard switch with seven prongs (like mine). It appears the hazard switch is usually a six prong or eight prong switch. The front of the switch says QC68, not QC69. I’m trying to locate a replacement which has proven to be a little difficult. I’m running into the no turn signal issue and so far I replaced the hazard/turn signal relay, fuses and all exterior bulbs. The car needed those items by the look of each part. Any help on the topic would be much appreciated.
 

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Have you seen this? WOrked for my 2800CS (and a '73 CSi I had for a short time):

 
what year is your car?

Got a picture of the wiring plug w/the 7 wires on them?
It’s a 1970.
Have you seen this? WOrked for my 2800CS (and a '73 CSi I had for a short time):

I have seen that. Interesting that a brand new OEM relay wouldn’t work.
 

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Thanks for this.
When I bought the car, I was testing everything out and I pressed the hazard switch and then the hazards permanently stayed on. I pulled the fuse for the drive home. I ordered the new hazard switch and plugged it in even though it has one too many prongs. It’s obviously not the correct one and I am not going to use it but it did allow the passenger side turn signals to flash when I would use the indicator. Very funky indeed!
 
Perhaps obvious tip to get you on the road. When these hazard switches wear out they won't latch "in", or off. If you hold the switch in with tape or wedge it with a toothpick you might find the blinkers work again.
 
Perhaps obvious tip to get you on the road. When these hazard switches wear out they won't latch "in", or off. If you hold the switch in with tape or wedge it with a toothpick you might find the blinkers work again.
I ended up pulling the fuse for the time being. Good to know about the toothpick trick.

have you tried fixing your old switch?

Was it that it stayed on by always being popped up?


I originally thought the hazard switch was too damaged since the button was getting jammed at an angle if you pressed it in/made a rattling noise. But, it's now fixed since I took it apart, bent that arm and cleaned the contact points.
 
I ordered the new hazard switch and plugged it in even though it has one too many prongs. It’s obviously not the correct one and I am not going to use it but it did allow the passenger side turn signals to flash when I would use the indicator.

OK, so I think you're saying that the turn signals used to sorta work with this 7 pin switch. But now they don't work on either side. Do I have that correct?

It would be simpler if the turn signals worked fine pre- 7 pin switch and not at all post. But it doesn't sound like that's the case. Right?

The turn signal current passes through the emergency flasher switch; if the switch is disconnected, your turn signals won't work at all. If you make a short jumper wire with male terminals at both ends, and use it to connect pins #30 and 49 on the e-flasher switch connector (obviously with the connector detached from switch itself), the turn signals should work without the e-flasher switch connected. It would be interesting to know how things work with that hack in place.

For extra credit, you could check the switch for continuity between its pins #30 and 49 with the button in (should be connected) and out (should be disconnected).

so far I replaced the hazard/turn signal relay

Replaced it with what? And did the replacement flasher make the problem better or worse? What happens when you put the old flasher back in?

e9's (and e3's and 2002's) are very sensitive to what type of flasher is installed; flashers will only work if they trigger with exactly the right amount of current. Substituting an electronic flasher is the simple solution for this problem.
 
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OK, so I think you're saying that the turn signals used to sorta work with this 7 pin switch. But now they don't work on either side. Do I have that correct?

It would be simpler if the turn signals worked fine pre- 7 pin switch and not at all post. But it doesn't sound like that's the case. Right?

The turn signal current passes through the emergency flasher switch; if the switch is disconnected, your turn signals won't work at all. If you make a short jumper wire with male terminals at both ends, and use it to connect pins #30 and 49 on the e-flasher switch connector (obviously with the connector detached from switch itself), the turn signals should work without the e-flasher switch connected. It would be interesting to know how things work with that hack in place.

For extra credit, you could check the switch for continuity between its pins #30 and 49 with the button in (should be connected) and out (should be disconnected).



Replaced it with what? And did the replacement flasher make the problem better or worse? What happens when you put the old flasher back in?

e9's (and e3's and 2002's) are very sensitive to what type of flasher is installed; flashers will only work if they trigger with exactly the right amount of current. Substituting an electronic flasher is the simple solution for this problem.
Hey there,

The turn signals never worked when I took delivery (I've had the car two weeks now). I pressed the hazard switch once and it stayed on forever, so I pulled the fuse for it. I fixed the original hazard switch though.

I replaced the hazard/turn signal relay with a new OEM one. It probably didn't need to be replaced but it didn't look all too great. It turns out, I probably didn't even need to replace it but at least I have a new one in that I won't have to worry about for a while. I will convince myself it could be considered preventative maintenance!

I appreciate the time you took for the response! This forum is the best I've seen in a long time. After reading a lot on these cars and chatting with others, you're 100% correct about how sensitive these cars are.
 
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