'73 3.0cs 30 year restoration

Yes, the rubber breaks down or the thackery washers loosen (if using those). Or if not installed correctly will leak right away. I've used regular gaskets for 8 years with no issues, and no leaks.

So it is a soft mount, which followed the strong recommendation from Korman. Is the air leak something that happens over time as the rubber breaks down, or something people see immediately?
 
After a multi-year slow down and just lack of posting updates, may as well get this back up to date. Although completed some time ago, completed the engine and dropped in the car, along with the subframes that were restored previously. More than 2 years past after these pictures were taken before there was any real progress, basically just getting the point that the fuel system was in, and the engine could be started.
 

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After these years of almost no progress, I finally made the call to take the project home and do it myself, reuniting with the ‘74. Since then:

  • Completely removed the suspension, axles and brakes. Installed all new hardware
  • Rebuilt the axles
  • Installed new calipers, rotors, pads
  • Installed and rebuilt all the parking brake assembly
  • Installed the Getrag 265 5 speed conversion with 2002s Only new shift platform
 

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Last edited:
More Pics
 

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Next project - interior insulation. Mostly through the first layer of 2mm butyl insulation. Need to finish up on the tunnel and read. Then next step is a layer of butyl-backed hybrid insulation with closed cell foam on the firewall, roof, tunnel, and trunk divider
 

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Just about finished with the insulation. Took quite a bit more time than expected but, very happy with the end result.
 

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Under the category of projects I wish I did not start, also restored the steering column. After loads of research on here for different method the fix chips or wear spots, I decided to completely sand down and refinish. Future reference, I do not recommend this - if you can just touch up, go that route as it is a ton of work.

That said, I tried about 3 different methods and about 5 different paints to recreate texture. My theory was to use a textured paint and sand a little between layers to give it the smoothed splatter texture. Experiments with wrinkle, generic textured, hammered and combinations thereof did not work at all. Eventually I found Dupli-color DM 109 splatter trunk spray. It is very strong and adhesive, and sands/paints well. The results photographed best on my test strip, but you can see the process. Ultimately I could have gone a bit thicker, but in person, it came out really well with a satin black top coat
 

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Have you seen, that I wrote a how to a few days ago?

I figure out a kind of paint that work great for those.


Breiti
 
Have you seen, that I wrote a how to a few days ago?

I figure out a kind of paint that work great for those.


Breiti
No, I did not see that! Another great solution. I do not have a spray gun like that, but looks like yours came out great
 
Quick decision point - bought a black powder coated valve cover on impulse and deciding which looks better and more correct. I am attempting to keep on the Alpina theme in line with a B2S. I have found conflicting imagery on if black or bare aluminum is more correct. So two part question - which is more correct, and separate of that, which looks best. I am leaning to the black
 

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Almost finished on the fuel system. Installed a Holley style low pressure regulator on the firewall with a pressure gauge neatly tucked in behind the coolant reservoir. Carter 4070 fuel pump mounted in near stock CSI location. Revolution electronics fuel pump controller hooked up to the factory fuse slot for power, tapped into the tach signal right at the cluster connector in the dash (still need to splice in) and will mount it in a blank relay bracket spot. Tested and all works perfectly with consistent pressure.
 

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