Yes, the rubber breaks down or the thackery washers loosen (if using those). Or if not installed correctly will leak right away. I've used regular gaskets for 8 years with no issues, and no leaks.
'73 3.0cs 30 year restoration
- Thread starter CharlesJ
- Start date
After a multi-year slow down and just lack of posting updates, may as well get this back up to date. Although completed some time ago, completed the engine and dropped in the car, along with the subframes that were restored previously. More than 2 years past after these pictures were taken before there was any real progress, basically just getting the point that the fuel system was in, and the engine could be started.
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After these years of almost no progress, I finally made the call to take the project home and do it myself, reuniting with the ‘74. Since then:
- Completely removed the suspension, axles and brakes. Installed all new hardware
- Rebuilt the axles
- Installed new calipers, rotors, pads
- Installed and rebuilt all the parking brake assembly
- Installed the Getrag 265 5 speed conversion with 2002s Only new shift platform
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Thatis a nice flywheel.
And a nice work as well
Breiti
And a nice work as well
Breiti
Next project - interior insulation. Mostly through the first layer of 2mm butyl insulation. Need to finish up on the tunnel and read. Then next step is a layer of butyl-backed hybrid insulation with closed cell foam on the firewall, roof, tunnel, and trunk divider
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Under the category of projects I wish I did not start, also restored the steering column. After loads of research on here for different method the fix chips or wear spots, I decided to completely sand down and refinish. Future reference, I do not recommend this - if you can just touch up, go that route as it is a ton of work.
That said, I tried about 3 different methods and about 5 different paints to recreate texture. My theory was to use a textured paint and sand a little between layers to give it the smoothed splatter texture. Experiments with wrinkle, generic textured, hammered and combinations thereof did not work at all. Eventually I found Dupli-color DM 109 splatter trunk spray. It is very strong and adhesive, and sands/paints well. The results photographed best on my test strip, but you can see the process. Ultimately I could have gone a bit thicker, but in person, it came out really well with a satin black top coat
That said, I tried about 3 different methods and about 5 different paints to recreate texture. My theory was to use a textured paint and sand a little between layers to give it the smoothed splatter texture. Experiments with wrinkle, generic textured, hammered and combinations thereof did not work at all. Eventually I found Dupli-color DM 109 splatter trunk spray. It is very strong and adhesive, and sands/paints well. The results photographed best on my test strip, but you can see the process. Ultimately I could have gone a bit thicker, but in person, it came out really well with a satin black top coat
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Have you seen, that I wrote a how to a few days ago?
I figure out a kind of paint that work great for those.
e9coupe.com
Breiti
I figure out a kind of paint that work great for those.
Struktur paint on Steering cover / Steering column Cover
Due to a lot of asking how to, i will write down a how to. I had a lot of scratches on those covers from the keys and i convert from automatic to stick shift. So I have to rebuild those structure paint on those covers. Step by step. first, remove all paint with paint remover sand down any...
e9coupe.com
Breiti
No, I did not see that! Another great solution. I do not have a spray gun like that, but looks like yours came out greatHave you seen, that I wrote a how to a few days ago?
I figure out a kind of paint that work great for those.
Struktur paint on Steering cover / Steering column Cover
Due to a lot of asking how to, i will write down a how to. I had a lot of scratches on those covers from the keys and i convert from automatic to stick shift. So I have to rebuild those structure paint on those covers. Step by step. first, remove all paint with paint remover sand down any...
Breiti
Spectacular work!
Quick decision point - bought a black powder coated valve cover on impulse and deciding which looks better and more correct. I am attempting to keep on the Alpina theme in line with a B2S. I have found conflicting imagery on if black or bare aluminum is more correct. So two part question - which is more correct, and separate of that, which looks best. I am leaning to the black
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Almost finished on the fuel system. Installed a Holley style low pressure regulator on the firewall with a pressure gauge neatly tucked in behind the coolant reservoir. Carter 4070 fuel pump mounted in near stock CSI location. Revolution electronics fuel pump controller hooked up to the factory fuse slot for power, tapped into the tach signal right at the cluster connector in the dash (still need to splice in) and will mount it in a blank relay bracket spot. Tested and all works perfectly with consistent pressure.
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Mo Brighta
Well-Known Member
Very nice! Looks like it has consumed 'Cubic Dollars' - and worth it!
Been a while since an update, so will break it up into a few posts.
Finished up interior prep with the sound insulation complete, added the seat rail trim. Found a self-adhesive vinyl on amazon that matches the brown carpet perfectly, and relatively easy to cut and install. One sheet did all four rails with leftover.
I then moved on to the trunk interior. First step I prepped the trunk, pulled and touched up the tank before putting back. The entire tank hand been previously restored, but I didn’t like the finish, so hit with VHT all weather black satin epoxy paint (no pic)
For the trunk, I worked with @alprada70 to make new US spec 73 and before floor panels (fit great), and got his new side panels. I then recovered by old trunk lid panels and back of trunk panel using W&N material. The trunk organizer and white rubber trim came from CS Werks, carpet was a brand new one that came with my other CS. Finally, in installed the very old NOS wheel arch trim. These were a bit brittle, so I first treated the back side with a rubberized undercoat to give them more structure and prevent future cracking. Still have my original rear panel to rover, but mostly done
Additionally I was missing the hinge spring and hardware when I restored the exterior, so I purchased the pieces from all over the world here, and went about refinishing and painting myself. After getting bare and using a good primer, I have found this Auto Paint Depot paint code matched spray paint to be an exceptional match. Used it for a number of brackets and the finish comes out nearly indistinguishable from the professional paint job on the exterior.
I also couldn’t help myself but to tear fit the rear seats and deck
Finished up interior prep with the sound insulation complete, added the seat rail trim. Found a self-adhesive vinyl on amazon that matches the brown carpet perfectly, and relatively easy to cut and install. One sheet did all four rails with leftover.
I then moved on to the trunk interior. First step I prepped the trunk, pulled and touched up the tank before putting back. The entire tank hand been previously restored, but I didn’t like the finish, so hit with VHT all weather black satin epoxy paint (no pic)
For the trunk, I worked with @alprada70 to make new US spec 73 and before floor panels (fit great), and got his new side panels. I then recovered by old trunk lid panels and back of trunk panel using W&N material. The trunk organizer and white rubber trim came from CS Werks, carpet was a brand new one that came with my other CS. Finally, in installed the very old NOS wheel arch trim. These were a bit brittle, so I first treated the back side with a rubberized undercoat to give them more structure and prevent future cracking. Still have my original rear panel to rover, but mostly done
Additionally I was missing the hinge spring and hardware when I restored the exterior, so I purchased the pieces from all over the world here, and went about refinishing and painting myself. After getting bare and using a good primer, I have found this Auto Paint Depot paint code matched spray paint to be an exceptional match. Used it for a number of brackets and the finish comes out nearly indistinguishable from the professional paint job on the exterior.
I also couldn’t help myself but to tear fit the rear seats and deck
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Little out of order chronologic, but also just restored the HVAC plates. Following some others advice, I us d the SEM ultra trim finish in satin. After about 7 different paint tests, this is by far the closest to OEM. I combined this with a set of @m73 decals, and protected with a thin layer of satin clear.
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Using many of the good threads here as a guide, and went through the HVAC boxes, disassembled and restored
Heather box initially looks real bad. All the foam was deteriorated, and though it would be a full heavy restoration. After disassembling everything, tediously removing all the foam and adhesive, everything actually cleanup up well. The metal platings were all in surprisingly shape, heater motor worked great. I replaced all the internal flap foam with 1/8” thick closed cell foam, and drilled and replaced all the rivets. Cleaned the motor and fan assembly throughly, and replaced all the hardware. I also tested the heater core and refinished. All the box perimeter foam was replaced as well.
On the AC box, no pictures, but replaced the fan motor, removed and deep lace all the foam, replaced the expansion valve and all copper washers, and tested the core, also repaired those delicate side intake grill spokes. For the connecting vent portion that connects the two boxes to the cabin center output vent, I removed and replaced all the felt insulation. This was a serious PITA to remove, but has to come off completely to restrict the new material, ordered from Amazon.
Heather box initially looks real bad. All the foam was deteriorated, and though it would be a full heavy restoration. After disassembling everything, tediously removing all the foam and adhesive, everything actually cleanup up well. The metal platings were all in surprisingly shape, heater motor worked great. I replaced all the internal flap foam with 1/8” thick closed cell foam, and drilled and replaced all the rivets. Cleaned the motor and fan assembly throughly, and replaced all the hardware. I also tested the heater core and refinished. All the box perimeter foam was replaced as well.
On the AC box, no pictures, but replaced the fan motor, removed and deep lace all the foam, replaced the expansion valve and all copper washers, and tested the core, also repaired those delicate side intake grill spokes. For the connecting vent portion that connects the two boxes to the cabin center output vent, I removed and replaced all the felt insulation. This was a serious PITA to remove, but has to come off completely to restrict the new material, ordered from Amazon.
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I did the same work on my heater box a few years ago and it was very satisfying.
I now wish that I had found a way to pressure test the AC connections as I have a leak that I think must be at the expansion valve. If you can find a way to pressure test the evaporator and expansion valve before you install them it would be worth the time.
I now wish that I had found a way to pressure test the AC connections as I have a leak that I think must be at the expansion valve. If you can find a way to pressure test the evaporator and expansion valve before you install them it would be worth the time.