88 735i / M30B35 etc. in CA

twistinglane

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Autotrader has the following. Area code suggests San Diego.

Used 1988 BMW 735i
$1,200
127,000 miles
White
PRIVATE SELLER

Looks ok except bang on rear.
For some reason couldn't copy actual link on my Android...
 

sreams

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One thing about the yards when it comes to these cars... Any car that came with an M30B35 has a digital odometer, so the mileage is unknowable unless the yard lets you connect a battery. You could easily end up with a motor that has over 300k on it. Better to get one that has at least been compression tested from a yard that does that sort of thing.
 

OCCoupe

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One thing about the yards when it comes to these cars... Any car that came with an M30B35 has a digital odometer, so the mileage is unknowable unless the yard lets you connect a battery. You could easily end up with a motor that has over 300k on it. Better to get one that has at least been compression tested from a yard that does that sort of thing.

The exception to that rule would be the '88-'89 e24 635csi. Another option would be to run a Carfax which would give you a general idea of the mileage.
 

sfdon

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A few thoughts..
Yards in NorCal sell fresh batteries. They are sitting near the entrance. I toss one in the wheel barrel on the way into the rows.
Positive to green at the ignition switch connector and ground to chassis.

I only take engines with uncut virgin heads.
There are 2 spots on a head that will tell you in 10 seconds whether it has ever been off and been surfaced.

I always take the head off 1st. If the bolts are stuck- the head is warped and walk away.
If the bores are damaged- walk away.

Look for green fluid and bad cam/ rockers in head.

Look for white goop in oil pan and oil cannister.
 

sfdon

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And the best tip of all......
Look for a nice car with a little fender bender and a Geico claim sheet stuck on the windshield!
 

Arde

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A few thoughts..
Yards in NorCal sell fresh batteries. They are sitting near the entrance. I toss one in the wheel barrel on the way into the rows.
Positive to green at the ignition switch connector and ground to chassis.

I only take engines with uncut virgin heads.
There are 2 spots on a head that will tell you in 10 seconds whether it has ever been off and been surfaced.

I always take the head off 1st. If the bolts are stuck- the head is warped and walk away.
If the bores are damaged- walk away.

Look for green fluid and bad cam/ rockers in head.

Look for white goop in oil pan and oil cannister.

When I went to the yard I knew I had to bring you along.
 
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