88 735i / M30B35 etc. in CA

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twistinglane

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Autotrader has the following. Area code suggests San Diego.

Used 1988 BMW 735i
$1,200
127,000 miles
White
PRIVATE SELLER

Looks ok except bang on rear.
For some reason couldn't copy actual link on my Android...
 
One thing about the yards when it comes to these cars... Any car that came with an M30B35 has a digital odometer, so the mileage is unknowable unless the yard lets you connect a battery. You could easily end up with a motor that has over 300k on it. Better to get one that has at least been compression tested from a yard that does that sort of thing.
 
sreams said:
One thing about the yards when it comes to these cars... Any car that came with an M30B35 has a digital odometer, so the mileage is unknowable unless the yard lets you connect a battery. You could easily end up with a motor that has over 300k on it. Better to get one that has at least been compression tested from a yard that does that sort of thing.
Click to expand...

The exception to that rule would be the '88-'89 e24 635csi. Another option would be to run a Carfax which would give you a general idea of the mileage.
 
A few thoughts..
Yards in NorCal sell fresh batteries. They are sitting near the entrance. I toss one in the wheel barrel on the way into the rows.
Positive to green at the ignition switch connector and ground to chassis.

I only take engines with uncut virgin heads.
There are 2 spots on a head that will tell you in 10 seconds whether it has ever been off and been surfaced.

I always take the head off 1st. If the bolts are stuck- the head is warped and walk away.
If the bores are damaged- walk away.

Look for green fluid and bad cam/ rockers in head.

Look for white goop in oil pan and oil cannister.
 
And the best tip of all......
Look for a nice car with a little fender bender and a Geico claim sheet stuck on the windshield!
 
sfdon said:
A few thoughts..
Yards in NorCal sell fresh batteries. They are sitting near the entrance. I toss one in the wheel barrel on the way into the rows.
Positive to green at the ignition switch connector and ground to chassis.

I only take engines with uncut virgin heads.
There are 2 spots on a head that will tell you in 10 seconds whether it has ever been off and been surfaced.

I always take the head off 1st. If the bolts are stuck- the head is warped and walk away.
If the bores are damaged- walk away.

Look for green fluid and bad cam/ rockers in head.

Look for white goop in oil pan and oil cannister.
Click to expand...

When I went to the yard I knew I had to bring you along.
 
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