Advice for power source for electric fuel pump for carbs

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brian c

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To all those who have converted to an electric fuel pump mounted near the fuel tank, what did you tap for power? I was thinking of a Carter 4070 mounted to the diff carrier like I saw in a previous thread. I'm assuming people are running a relay? Where is it mounted and what are you using for power for the pump and what are you using as a source for the switched power? Thanks for any advice. Brian
 
My pump is not yet wired up, I am planning to move my battery to the trunk, and use a switched power controller to the pump, which acts as a relay and a safety cut-off to kill the pump if the engine ignition system stops firing (as in a crash, for example):

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

Look at your wiring diagram; there is an empty switched power location on fuse 4 or 5 that you can use. I am planning to use that location through another fuse and then to the pump controller;cut off switch. With this setup, the purple power wire off the controller can be wired directly to the battery (with a fuse, obviously) because the controller acts as a relay and the switched power only needs to energize the controller.
 
I run mine off an ignition cutoff siwtch:

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

Energizes the pump for 3 seconds to prime the carbs when you turn the key on before starting, if it does not detect a running engine it shuts off.

It's mounted underneath the ignition coil out of sight.

Has an internal circuit breaker and all wiring needed to wire the pump. I ran the wire inside the car to the trunk then out the hole by the diff to the pump.
 
Thanks guys,
That looks like a pretty slick unit and a good, safe way to wire things. I'll order one. Just need to figure out the wire routing to do it as cleanly as possible.
 
Mine goes from the coil area where it's mounted then follows the a/c relay wire in front of the radiator wall and behind the lights to the other side where it comes out with the other light's wires to the battery. Then I wired the diode that it comes with it to solve the pulse issue that may occur and hid it under the relays. From the diode connection I ran a red wire along with the main harness through the firewall, down under the carpet to under the rear seat then into the trunk then into the hole behind the spare tire to the fuel pump. I shrink tubed the wire portion that goes from the trunk to the pump.

Likely there is a better way but I wanted to keep the wire as dry as possible and not tap into anything.


brian c said:
Thanks guys,
That looks like a pretty slick unit and a good, safe way to wire things. I'll order one. Just need to figure out the wire routing to do it as cleanly as possible.
Click to expand...
 
I must admit I got the idea for the switch from Stevehose.

I had been thinking that I would mount the switch in the trunk somewhere, but I rather like Steve's location. I may steal that too.
 
Steal away!

The device has short wires for the tach and ignition sensor so it makes it easier to mount it close to the coil.
 
The one that still gets me is green/brown - switched ground. True for oil pressure and Motronic fuel pump relays.
 
This may not be a 'proper' source for fuel pump power but...

Living in Calif. at least in my neck of the woods, we don't have a great need for the heated rear window...

So, I merely disconected the lead from the rear window and ran an extention wire to my trunk mounted fuel pump (I have Weber carbs...)

This has worked great and since the circuit runs thru the lighted switch for the rear window power, it provides an lighted 'power on' indicator as well as a poor man's security device that will disable power to the pump if unswitched.

has not failed me....! My 2 cents..... DCG
 
Great idea, but it looks like a pretty complicated retrofit. Also, looking at the pictures in the thread, I think I would have opted for under the rear seat rather than above the gas tank.
 
Ohmess said:
My pump is not yet wired up, I am planning to move my battery to the trunk, and use a switched power controller to the pump, which acts as a relay and a safety cut-off to kill the pump if the engine ignition system stops firing (as in a crash, for example):

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

Look at your wiring diagram; there is an empty switched power location on fuse 4 or 5 that you can use. I am planning to use that location through another fuse and then to the pump controller;cut off switch. With this setup, the purple power wire off the controller can be wired directly to the battery (with a fuse, obviously) because the controller acts as a relay and the switched power only needs to energize the controller.
Click to expand...

Hi there

I too am planning to move the battery to the trunk. I like the additional space for a distribution block for the car and accessories. I use a battery tray bolted to the back panel. When I moved the battery to the trunk on a '71 2002 resto, the car only needed the + run to the engine bay (to a distribution block) and I grounded the battery under the rear seat. On a Land Rover II 109 resto I moved the battery under drivers seat, it needed a charging wire from the alternator back to the positive on the battery. On the '73 bavaria, is a charging wire run back to the battery?

Any direction, advice, learnings, pics are appreciated.

Thanks Ohmess!

Bill
 
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