Amateur DIY Wood Refinishing/Laminating

Alan is correct about the "wetted first"...the iron creates the steam than creates plasticity in the wood fibres, and thus allows the bend without fracturing...only problem is the iron is it's a flat plane, and the wood parts are curved for the most part. Even the sets that I have done with the Food Saver vacuum method, I lightly wet the convex pieces, like the gauge cluster.
I am a fan of the Franklin Titebond II wood glue, (and its water-proof) as it will not "gas-off" and possibly affect finishing, rather than epoxy, etc. That's what makes horse races, I guess...
 
aearch said:
just allly the wood glue to each side
let dry overnite
set in water for a minute to soften
get a steam iron and cloth and heat it up
glues forever -piece of cake
cut and trim after applying ---not before!!
super simple i did all mine twice -very fast
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I just tried the cut and trim after laminating technique on the rear panel/window wood trim. I agree that it works pretty well and was quicker than cutting first. Zebra wood, however, has such pronounced grain direction that I found it was very difficult to cut across the grain without splitting the veneer using this method.

Also found it best to trim the edges before the glue had time to fully cure. Roughly after 3 hours seemed right. There are many small globs of glue that are difficult to trim if its fully cured.

About to do the door trim wood, and will cut first for these. The holes where the handles attach, I would imagine, are difficult to cut perfectly after gluing the veneer. These would be hidden, anyway, so I suppose it depends on how anal you want to get with things.
 
I gotta say, the door trim and rear window trim is really quick and easy. If yours is cracked and water damaged like mine was, this is a satisfying and simple fix.
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The other way, that I usually attack the trim, is oversize everything 1/16" or so, let it all cure, and use a Dremel tool with a sanding "barrel" to sand to your net size...especially good for that ashtray cut-out, seat belt bolt holes, etc. No worries about the blade running with the grain....Alan just reminded me, however, that I'm out of X-acto blades...
 
dave v. in nc said:
Nice work, and great looking veneer! I think that you will find the concave pieces to the left and right of the gauge cluster more difficult than the cluster itself...Clamping is a little more difficult since you need a caul (opposite curve to piece being veneered), or a sand bag method, to equalize the clamping pressure...or you might buy a Food Saver (you can borrow one for that matter) and vacuum bag the veneer on...I've done a few sets and it works great (pretty good with salmon as well...). Drop me a PM if you'd like to discuss. And I agree with Steve on the urethane...I experimented with tung oil on some samples (albeit walnut), and after ten hand rubbed coats, I gave up on getting the finish build desired.
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You can also use the Vacuum bags they use for storing clothes or bedding.
 
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