Attn: triple Weber owners/experts - what to do with coolant hoses?

Stevehose

Stevehose

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Tomorrow I am removing the Zeniths in preparation for the triple Webers, what should I do regarding re-routing the coolant hose from the water pump housing that goes to the carb manifolds then to the overflow tank? I also need to address the hose coming from the back of the block through the heater (now bypassed) also ending in the rear carb manifold. How should I join all these together? I don't want to prevent any necessary coolant flow. Help appreciated.
 
Stevehose said:
Tomorrow I am removing the Zeniths in preparation for the triple Webers, what should I do regarding re-routing the coolant hose from the water pump housing that goes to the carb manifolds then to the overflow tank? I also need to address the hose coming from the back of the block through the heater (now bypassed) also ending in the rear carb manifold. How should I join all these together? I don't want to prevent any necessary coolant flow. Help appreciated.
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IMHO, you should maintain the flow, thus connect the thermostat housing on the front with the hose comming from the back of the block, with the hose comming from the heater, and with the overflow tank

soeither the solution comes from where daveg pointed out or you take paper and a pencil and go to the plumber for an ad- hoc part

anyway i feel sad, another couple of zeniths bites the dust !

regards,
 
Yes I agree, coolant flow must be maintained, especially with the fragile '72 head.

Zeniths - yes admittedly I have mixed emotions about removing them and kinda feel like a traitor, but everything will be reversible, and if I don't prefer the 3 webers (which is quite possible) they will go back on in a heartbeat. The Zeniths are great carbs when set up properly but I have a history of messing with someting that works perfectly well!


deQuincey said:
IMHO, you should maintain the flow, thus connect the thermostat housing on the front with the hose comming from the back of the block, with the hose comming from the heater, and with the overflow tank

soeither the solution comes from where daveg pointed out or you take paper and a pencil and go to the plumber for an ad- hoc part

anyway i feel sad, another couple of zeniths bites the dust !

regards,
Click to expand...
 
Do you have a clearance problem with the thermosat housing ?




Steve
 

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None of the Weber DCOE's on my cars have the thing circled in the photo below - that seems like the primary point of interference with the thermostat housing. My Webers are all older, from the "made in Italy" era. Are your's of recent manufacture? It might be necessary to swap the carbs you have for a set that lacks that protrusion. (Don't you love these "bolt on" projects?)
 

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No clearance problems - my manifold was made back in the day by a company called VGS and was apparently designed with a kink to clear the thermostat housing as well as a rise to clear the brake booster, they are old carbs made in Italy that I have rebuilt and hopefully will work. Thanks for the pics of the hoses - they are very helpful. I test fitted them today to start work on the linkage while I wait for the phenolic spacers and some yellow zinc hardware to arrive. I will likely go with ram air style filters for max intake noise :razz: although if I have room I might go for velocity stacks and sock filters which are removable for certain occasions. What did you do for crankcase breather plumbing?


IMG-20120609-00487.jpg



84E24 said:
Do you have a clearance problem with the thermosat housing ?
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Mine are a couple years old. I did a mod to the housing.
 

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Woah that's nice - where did you get the fuel pipe plumbing, do you have any sync issues with the 2 couplers between the carbs and please explain the crankcase plumbing.

84E24 said:
Mine are a couple years old. I did a mod to the housing.
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I made the fuel pipe. The crank case has a NPT fitting, 1/2" copper tubing to a remote catch can.


Steve
 
The carb couplers are the way to go, IMHO

Three links between the throttle rod arms and the carbs is more trouble because the link length changes slightly when you tighten the lock nuts. A spring loaded coupler can be easily tweaked 0.01" with a twist of a screw driver and the spring keeps the setting.
 
Steve, I am going to emulate your coupler set up (even though I have blown $$ on the other) and I agree with Bfeng that it should be easier to sync than the rod and arm arrangement. Certainly will be easier to use the existing accelerator pedal linkage. Do you use one throttle stop screw for all 3 carbs (located on carb #1)? Your setup is a work of art.



84E24 said:
I made the fuel pipe. The crank case has a NPT fitting, 1/2" copper tubing to a remote catch can.


Steve
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Steve, on mine there is a small spacer that moves the stat housing out a bit farther. Seems like a simple solution.
 
Frustrating

The problem I seem to be having is that the middle carb, right side barrel throttle butterfly spindle is being torqued shut a little from the force of the throttle on the front carb passing through the 2nd carb to open the rear carb. The right barrel is reading lower on the meter and the disparity increases as the throttle is opened. I can't get sync throughout the rev range and the middle carb backfires as a result i think.

So it looks like I am back to the rod and arms set up? This should eliminate throttle spindle torque?

Unfortunately I have to travel the next 2 weekends so this will eat away at me for a while. At least it will give some time for all the $$$ I've blown to launder through and past the lady comptroller.


bfeng said:
Three links between the throttle rod arms and the carbs is more trouble because the link length changes slightly when you tighten the lock nuts. A spring loaded coupler can be easily tweaked 0.01" with a twist of a screw driver and the spring keeps the setting.
Click to expand...
 
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