Attn: triple Weber owners/experts - what to do with coolant hoses?

Iffn

I understand what you're saying, you have to manually tweak the shaft in order to balance the one barrel. By manual, I mean twist it in the direction to open or closed while in the open position. I'd also make sure that butterfly is tight in the shaft.

Common to Solex's with solid shafts on early 60's Porsches. It's the procedure to balancing on those cars.

Have another beverage.:cool:

P.S. Here's throttle to throttle bushings
DSCN1166.jpg
 
Yes, correct, what I have to hope for is that I don't need to twist it much once the torque is relieved because that will upset the closed throttle mixture settings and position of the plate vis a vis the progression holes and screwing up that balance.

That coupler pictured is used between barrels or carbs? Requires cutting the spindle? What's the advantage of this?


61porsche said:
I understand what you're saying, you have to manually tweak the shaft in order to balance the one barrel. By manual, I mean twist it in the direction to open or closed while in the open position. I'd also make sure that butterfly is tight in the shaft.

Common to Solex's with solid shafts on early 60's Porsches. It's the procedure to balancing on those cars.

Have another beverage.:cool:

P.S. Here's throttle to throttle bushings
Click to expand...
 
One must

hold one side of the shaft with a suitable wrench and with another wrench twist the opposite side towards the desired open/ closed to reach the desired "balance." I'll try to find you the Porsche article for Solex P-II's, solid shafts.

I can't see what you did between the carbs so maybe you can post a photo etc. You need the return spring as a safety measure. If your twist is enough that one butterfly is closed and the other slightly open, then there's no choice but to bend it back to equal.

To answer the other poster's question- the picture is of a triple barrel weber for a 911. Eurometrix is a firm that specialized in Porsche induction setups (race) and repairs.
 
I will have the 2 other carb springs plus the pedal linkage spring to pull the carbs back to idle - this should suffice for safety, no?

I have the same linkage setup as Steve Bingam's, you can see the issue that occurs with my 3rd carb torquing the second when opening:

attachment.php



61porsche said:
hold one side of the shaft with a suitable wrench and with another wrench twist the opposite side towards the desired open/ closed to reach the desired "balance." I'll try to find you the Porsche article for Solex P-II's, solid shafts.

I can't see what you did between the carbs so maybe you can post a photo etc. You need the return spring as a safety measure. If your twist is enough that one butterfly is closed and the other slightly open, then there's no choice but to bend it back to equal.

To answer the other poster's question- the picture is of a triple barrel weber for a 911. Eurometrix is a firm that specialized in Porsche induction setups (race) and repairs.
Click to expand...
 
Steve,

The throttle shafts should not be tweaking or twisting because of the connections or return springs. Disconnect the connections and see if number 5 is binding. What happens most times is that the carb (therfore the shaft) is askew and not in proper alignment carb to carb or shaft to shaft. Find a straight edge and see if that is the case. Shine a light on the straight edge. That problem has to be fixed.

An imbalance is an imbalance and you won't sleep or accept that. Keep at it. Be sure to switch the leads around on the sychrometer to make sure the guage doesn't stick. ( The old ones had an adjustment)

Now if you think that cylinder or valve is a little off, then get it to run smooth and call it a day.

Balance is more than just equal; it's tuning each variable for best running. For instance on my car, the front carb likes to run a tad rich, the rear a bit lean and if I was really smart I'd switch them around. So is this part of the lost art and BMW knew it? Porsche sure did. The line mechanics( all three of them) would just reach around grab another part form their stash of hundreds till they got it right. We're dealing with what parts we got.

No, a minor imbalance doesn't really matter past 3000 rpm. But making sure those carbs open all the way sure is. My suggestion is to tune first for idle ; then for cruise ( whatever rpm that is for you.)
 
Hello guys, my car came with the triple Weber set up, Korman 3.3 motor, unfortunately painted blue, and whomever installed the fuel lines did a horrible job.
The engine is not running even at idle(ish) but WOT is great.
The carbs are mounted on the O ring system, and was wondering if anyone has a better mousetrap.

Webers on my Alfa Romeo are on paper gaskets and never a problem. In this forum, I see (read) about the O rings again...

As an aside, the original installer, put three (!!!) Facet square pumps, two in the trunk and one at the firewall and a 'Cagle regulator', why I don't know.

I am planning to can all the pumps and go to two Facet red tops in tandem, under the car, somewhere by the diff.
Clean up the fuel line installation by the engine, and use a Weber tee in the middle one.
I would appreciate any thought, ideas or suggestions you might have, as I have zero experience with Weber 6 cyl BMW engines.
Thank you.

Regards, Alberto
 

Attachments

  • L1020747-001.jpg
    L1020747-001.jpg
    95.5 KB · Views: 158
  • L1020759-001.jpg
    L1020759-001.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 162
  • L1020751-001.jpg
    L1020751-001.jpg
    93 KB · Views: 161
Last edited:
Alberto

by all means remove the three pumps. You're looking for a high flow, low pressure pump ( 3-5 psi). Yes, plumb for the middle. In theory and practice sometimes delivery is a problem at upper rpms. Yes, by the driver's side underneath and well isolated.

O-rings etc. The old trick was to mount barely loose, start, and then just tighten enough to seal any leaks while grasping the carbs and moving them.

Rough idle can be many things, so first make sure the ignition and timing are good. Then read your plugs or post photos.
 
61porsche said:
by all means remove the three pumps. You're looking for a high flow, low pressure pump ( 3-5 psi). Yes, plumb for the middle. In theory and practice sometimes delivery is a problem at upper rpms. Yes, by the driver's side underneath and well isolated.

O-rings etc. The old trick was to mount barely loose, start, and then just tighten enough to seal any leaks while grasping the carbs and moving them.

Rough idle can be many things, so first make sure the ignition and timing are good. Then read your plugs or post photos.
Click to expand...

Part of the r&r of the car will be the carburation, timing etc.
First, we'll replace the pump set up and clean up the engine bay hose routing for the Webers, then drive and see. Will post photos.

Do Webers give trouble by not being mounted on O-rings?

Thank you.

Regards, Alberto
 
I installed a Carter 4070 pump and it works great, here is the install thread:

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11517&highlight=triple+weber

Mount on rubber grommets and it is very quiet. Best to mount rearward close to the tank per their instructions.

I had problems with the hard mounts so I switched to soft mounts from Pierce Manifolds:

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99005.146.htm

Now if I can solve my lean middle carb issue I will be happy.

aguirola said:
Part of the r&r of the car will be the carburation, timing etc.
First, we'll replace the pump set up and clean up the engine bay hose routing for the Webers, then drive and see. Will post photos.

Do Webers give trouble by not being mounted on O-rings?

Thank you.

Regards, Alberto
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top