Australian Restoration Work

Wes

Wes

Moderator
Site Donor $
Messages
1,796
Reaction score
1,714
Location
Tasmania, Australia
I need some advice/ideas ahead of commencing the business end of my restoration.
I'm ready to embark on the bodywork and respray of my CS that will see it go from Polaris back to it's original colour Ceylon.
My restorer of choice in Melbourne is now winding down to retirement and isn't taking on more jobs.
The body of my E9 is pretty good with a couple of bubbles in the guards and one small rust hole in one shock tower but otherwise sound.

So my question(s) are:
Do we know any other body works in Australia that are E9 specialists or do high quality restoration work?

Or do I find a really good local body works, keep costs down and project manage it myself and do the leg work with sourcing parts, which also keeps the cost down and remain invested in the project?

I'm pretty handy on the tools but am not a welder or painter.
 
Wes, I think a competent local shop is the way to go . I tried to make life easier for my rust guys by identifying the relevant areas ( not very hard in my case ! ) and then buying the repair panels ....if you can reduce the amount of fabrication/ fettling they have to , then that translates into $$ savings . If they're not familiar with E9's they are less likely to be scared off if you tell them that the panels they will need are available "off the shelf " . My two cents . BTW, Walloth's panels currently on special . Cheers, Simon
 
Aussiecsi said:
Wes, I think a competent local shop is the way to go . I tried to make life easier for my rust guys by identifying the relevant areas ( not very hard in my case ! ) and then buying the repair panels ....if you can reduce the amount of fabrication/ fettling they have to , then that translates into $$ savings . If they're not familiar with E9's they are less likely to be scared off if you tell them that the panels they will need are available "off the shelf " . My two cents . BTW, Walloth's panels currently on special . Cheers, Simon
Click to expand...

That's kind of where I was going too. I don't think mine has too much rust other than the spare wheel well and a section of the bonnet. I figure if I do the project management and deal with W&N for all the bits it would keep costs down and be a great project.
 
Great move Wes you are going back to Ceylon.

In my opinion the best and most realistic priced shops are in Melb.

I also think there are no true E9 experts anywhere in Aust who know the intricies of E9s restorations. (aside from Bill and Danny at Ajay and I assume you have contacted them. They could probably recommend someone else though)

So yes do handle as much as you can with the strip down together with the workshop. Definitely handle all the part sourcing and as much as possible of the rebuild yourself. If you are mechanically minded do as much project management as you can.

It might be also worth finding someone in Tassy as might be hard to be actively involved with a Melb based shop.

Good luck. Would be so much fun to do such a project.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wes
Aussiecsi said:
...have you had the sill/rocker covers off ?
Click to expand...

No I haven't yet.
I have crawled along their full length and checked all the bleeder hole were open. I then flooded them with moisture excluder, I got caught in the rain, then I think it was penetrol. None of the liquid came out of places it wasn't supposed to. I'm therefore hoping they are ok.
Car was colour changed about 20 years back and spent much of the time since in a garage so I have a little confidence.
If I'm wrong I'll come back and edit this and remove 'a' from my last sentence :)
 
I think if either the shop or the car owner knows enough about the car being worked on you can have good results. Those expectations need to be VERY clear up front about how much you will be involved and what decisions you'll make.

Keep us updated...
 
Best that you pull the covers before taking to a body shop so that you minimise "surprises ".Just a case of removing some s/s trim and screws from memory. If sills are ok then you're looking pretty good.
 
I agree totally with getting the sill covers off to take a look. Also get in behind the glove box, near the fuse box and check out the metal in that area.
Do the doors fit well and open and close easily, if so that is a good start. If not, then suspect extra flex from somewhere.
Good luck and keep us in the loop.
CB
 
Are you looking for someone to do everything? Strip, bodywork/paint, re-assemble?

Or you can do the #1 and #3?
 
Bit of an update for you all.
I think I've found a good solo operator about 20km from my house - been in the trade 20 odd years.
He only does vintage or classics and has done some BMW's before - 2002's and the odd sharknose coupe - but mainly Australian stuff.
I'm going to take the car down next week for him to have a look.
My suggestion to him was that I'd do a heap of the pull down on the car before he gets it and store the parts at home.
I'd also help him complete the stripping at his shop and some of the grunt work on the body.
In addition I'd project manage in terms of sourcing parts from W&N and probably here too :)
He usually provides a fixed price quote, as opposed to a per hour rate.
I've pulled all the sound deadening off the firewall and it looks pretty good. Also stuck my head in behind the glovebox and that looks very dusty but otherwise ok.
Don't know about sills, will pull covers off next week. Doors seem to work fine an alignment is pretty good.
Floors are all solid as well, as is the parcel shelf and under the back seats.
Once I know more I'll post updates in my existing project thread.

What am I missing or forgotten?


My restoration plans/priorities are as follows:
Engine out respray back to original Ceylon;
Replace spare wheel well, this has some rot - have a new one from W&N and remove/treat known rust issues;
Install CSL air dam;
Replace all window seals;
Pull window mechanisms and service;
Re-chrome front bumper;
Subject to his advice pull the fenders to get at a couple of rust bubbles coming up under the pain behind the front wheels and view shock towers from underneath;

Known Issues:
Small about of rot in spare wheel well;
Small rust breakout with pitting around underside of one bonnet vent;
2 x a pair of small bubbles on fenders behind front wheels;
Small hole (5mm) in one shock tower - assume more is lurking inside;

Unknown Issues:
TBA....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top