Auto pin jumping in a 72 cs coupe auto.

mr bump

mr bump

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Hi all, I'm just in the process of taking out the auto box and dropping in a dogleg getrac 5 speed, I've got all the bits to do it and this will be my little project over the festive holidays, my main question is this, with the car being an auto, do I have to jump the auto electrical connector to make the car start? I'm told that you have to do this otherwise the car will think its in gear and won't start with the new transmission in. I know you have to do this on the E34 as I have had a chat with a chap who has done the conversion and had the same problem, but do I have to do it on my CS 3.0 coupe?
 
You will realize in the auto trans removal process that you have to remove and the shift indicator quadrant on the side of the auto trans - this activates the gear indicator on the top of the steering column. It also interconnects with the neutral start relay (there are other names for it) that lives on the brake booster bracket under the hood.

I've forgotten exactly what else was required, but the simplest thing is a jumper in the right place. I removed almost all traces of the original autobox from my '73, so all the associated wiring came out.

If you are doing this yourself, get into your comfy chair with a wiring diagram, pen and paper, and figure out electrically, how starting works. Then the quadrant removal and how to get it right for the 5-speed will be apparent.

If you aren't doing it yourself, let your qualified foreign car mechanic (or whoever is actually doing the work) figure it out. Then check their work! You'll know or discover whether they are indeed competent.
 
Trace the black wire from your ignition switch to the main ignition switch connector.
You will see a red, violet, green and black wire at this connector. Splice or piggyback a fresh black wire to the receiving side of the plug direct to the starter at the 6:00 position. Do not disco both black wires at the connector as you will disable your unloaded relays.
 
What a carry on this is!! The auto trans is out and all the piping, I've gone to put the flywheel on and closely inspected the clutch and 2 of the springs on the clutch plate itself are broken!! But, the forums vey own "THE DON" has found me a near new clutch plate in brilliant condition 2 days before Xmas day! How's that for a mate and eager coupe lover,, now I can carry on.

Next thing is the wiring, I've traced the shift indicator cable to a white multi connector under the hood on top of the twin servo's, now looking at it, I think I'm going to leave this in and just bundle it up and store it in the back of the dash, reason being is if I ever sell the car and the new owner wants to return it to auto, the wiring is there.


I was told it took 3 days to convert these cs coupes from manual to auto or vice versa, bloody good chaps they were at doing it in such a short space of time, I've been on it now 2 days and still scratching my butt at what I'm being greeted with, but its all good fun and well worth it in the end.
Il keep you posted with what I find along my way.
 
mr bump said:
What a carry on this is!! The auto trans is out and all the piping, I've gone to put the flywheel on and closely inspected the clutch and 2 of the springs on the clutch plate itself are broken!! But, the forums vey own "THE DON" has found me a near new clutch plate in brilliant condition 2 days before Xmas day! How's that for a mate and eager coupe lover,, now I can carry on.

Next thing is the wiring, I've traced the shift indicator cable to a white multi connector under the hood on top of the twin servo's, now looking at it, I think I'm going to leave this in and just bundle it up and store it in the back of the dash, reason being is if I ever sell the car and the new owner wants to return it to auto, the wiring is there.


I was told it took 3 days to convert these cs coupes from manual to auto or vice versa, bloody good chaps they were at doing it in such a short space of time, I've been on it now 2 days and still scratching my butt at what I'm being greeted with, but its all good fun and well worth it in the end.
Il keep you posted with what I find along my way.
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Pedal box!!! The one in my car is mounted into the steering coloum, but the pedal box I've got is from a E24 M6 and is a short type, but luck is on my side as I've looked at both and they are the same by way of how the pedals mount into the box, so I can strip out the auto brake pedal and fit the clutch and brake pedals into the old pedal box framework. No need to strip out the master cylinder and un-bolting the steering coloum!! Looking good!
 
mr bump said:
Next thing is the wiring, I've traced the shift indicator cable to a white multi connector under the hood on top of the twin servo's, now looking at it, I think I'm going to leave this in and just bundle it up and store it in the back of the dash, reason being is if I ever sell the car and the new owner wants to return it to auto, the wiring is there.
Click to expand...

You can leave the cable on the engine bay but I would remove the shift indicator itself.
I just cut the cables and took it out. I did not want to look at an an atrophied artifact from the automatic days.

Next to the old cable bundle do attach a shrink's business card so a new owner going back to a 3-speed automatic can have his head examined :).
 
Arde said:
You can leave the cable on the engine bay but I would remove the shift indicator itself.
I just cut the cables and took it out. I did not want to look at an an atrophied artifact from the automatic days.

Next to the old cable bundle do attach a shrink's business card so a new owner going back to a 3-speed automatic can have his head examined :).
Click to expand...
Great minds eh arde!!! I've put a simple back to auto list taped up with the shift indicator loom.

I've kept the auto pedal in, the size of it will suit my over enthusiastic driving style, and re-shaped the E24 clutch pedal to sit perfect in the remaining gap, so it's going we'll.
 
mr bump said:
Great minds eh arde!!! I've put a simple back to auto list taped up with the shift indicator loom.

I've kept the auto pedal in, the size of it will suit my over enthusiastic driving style, and re-shaped the E24 clutch pedal to sit perfect in the remaining gap, so it's going we'll.
Click to expand...

Hmmm., isn't your auto brake much wider than the manual? Where does the clutch end up?
 
Arde said:
Hmmm., isn't your auto brake much wider than the manual? Where does the clutch end up?
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It is wider than a normal brake pedal, but there's quiet a lot of Room to put a clutch pedal in without to much trouble. I've re-shaped the brake pedal slightly, then re-shaped the E24 clutch pedal to make it near enough straight and it sits 1.3/4 inches away from the brake pedal, il take a pic tomorrow and post it up, but I've had to re fabricate the whole pedal box near enough, spaces, spigots, mounting bolts, it's been quiet enjoyable realy, takes me back to making pedal boxs for the race cars I built years ago.

But one problem, there's a reverse light switch on the manual box, so I've got to make up a wire to suit the switch, but where do I run it to?? Then there's the prop centre mounts, for the E24 prop, the bracket mounts are around 6" away from the centre bearing, so I either use the auto prop and extend the brackets by 40mm, or make and weld new brackets to take the manual prop. Any ideas anyone on the reverse wire and prop solutionssolutions??
 
Oh, so you are into making pedals. I think you could have gotten the E9 manual pedal setup instead of reusing E24 gear, but maybe you are right about the master cylinder rod being a different length. I recall some issue with that.

The reverese light is driven by a switch in the manual transmission, labeled 36 in the diagram, and if you still have that loom with the automatic wires then you should find there the wires that go to the reverse light switch. The connector is lableled 28 in the diagram.
http://www.e9coupe.com/tech/autobooks/appendix/autobooks_manual_154.htm

The common solution to driveshaft I recall is to use the automatic driveshaft and shorten/rebalance for the 5 speed conversion.

In this picture you can see the assorted small pieces you should have handy, note the gray pedal and clutch assembly, a new crossmember to hold the transmission, the yellow foam to keep fumes away from the cabin, etc.
http://home.earthlink.net/~b_jamin/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/kit.jpg

Here you see the shifter surround bottom view and you can see the inner recessed wood that has to be cut to convert it to manual, making sure you leave enough vynil to cover it afterwards.
http://home.earthlink.net/~b_jamin/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/platform.jpg

other views are http://home.earthlink.net/~b_jamin/shark/id6.html
 
That diagram is perfect arde, I was struggling to see what or where I routed it, but an extra pair of eyes and a diagram makes it fit into place mate.

I was lucky enough to pick up a selector panel off Chris Randall who owns ZAPRACE who make the body kits for the E9s, I was with him one day picking up a front spoiler and the ducktail boot spoiler and just happend to ask if he had one, and to my joy, he had, and a good one aswell, and it was taken off the doner car Chris prepped for jermiriqi the pop star, so happy am I!!

I've got a friend in Ireland who has an E12 breaking at the moment so il get him to measure the prop up and see if it will be a better fit than cutting and balancing my other 2 I've got.

I pick the clutch plate up tomorrow morning so that will be in by tomorrow evening along with the gearbox (fingers crossed), so expect more questions, the wife is moaning that the I-pad is coverd in oil!!:D:wink:
 
I used my auto trans dshaft but stretched it at the splined joint where the center bearing is. It is a minor lengthening and there is still plenty of spline in place to handle torque loads. This is dandy per Carl Nelson...

If you are planning a significant power boost there may have to be another solution.

I didn't bother to rebalance the stretched dshaft and have had no problems.
 
AAAARRRRRRRRHHHHHHHH!!!!!! Made a school error today, :(:(:( forgot all about a pilot bearing:(:(:(, so I've locked the garage up and am currently looking for the said bearing online in a nice warm lounge:-| I've forgotten what the inside of my house looks like:-o:-o. If any uk forum members know where to get a pilot bearing from, please let me know.
 
Box is in!!!!! Even tho its a close ratio dogleg box, I've. Extended the piece between the ball and pivot connector by 1.5", and god has it made a ma'HOOOSIVE difference, the gate is so close now, it's like an old sierra cosworth touring car I once had, can wait now.........but the bloody prop shaft is beginning to realy do my head in. I either grind the old centre brearing mounts off and re-weld them in the new position, or make an extension bracket and bolt it to it.

And after all this I've the electrics to look forward to:-(
 
Struggling with reverse lights after conversion

I'm struggling to re-connect my reverse lights after converting from auto to manual, has/ can anyone give me the stages in which to sort this out?? I'm beginning to loose my temper with it now.:x
 
The plug under the dash is round and white with three wires. The wire from the trans plugs into it. Jump to find which two activate the backup lights. All it is doing is connecting a ground.
 
Reverse lights done!!!:-D:-D:-D, blue with white and green with black. I knew I was going to say this......., but it was an easy job to do8)...HAHAHA., now just the starter to go then fingers crossed, a fault free test run.
 
I decided to cut out the remainder of the auto trans plug from inside the engine bay leading to under the dash, there were 8 cables, 6 of which were used in the trans plug under the dash, and the two left from the 8 were the green and black and I've got a brown with black left over, any ideas what's this for?? It's goes into what looks like a solenoid under the expansion tank. That solenoid, can I take it out completely now???
 
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