badge location on trunk lid for 1973 CSIL

V

vtacarguy

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Hello,
Hopefully someone can help me.
When my car was restored and repainted they did a great job filling the holes on the trunk lid.
I would like to re-install and don't know the measurements needed for drilling to install the badges.
Thanks
 
Last edited:
another question in a similar context - does anybody have the dimensioned drawing of the mounting locations that were in some of the blue service manuals. does anybody have one of these drawings? mine is no longer in my blue manuals.
 
i'm not sure that it was there for a CSL, but there was for the 3.0cs. it was one in my first set of blue books that i sold.

i need a copy of the drawing for a 2800cs
 
the original drawings will tell you how to locate the 3.0 and get the cs started, you can figure out the difference for the mounting of the csl. you need a copy of that drawing - i know it exists, and somebody has to have a copy.
 
Where in the blue books would it be - I wiill check mine. Otherwise, I can measure my 3.0cs holes if that will help.

rsporsche said:
the original drawings will tell you how to locate the 3.0 and get the cs started, you can figure out the difference for the mounting of the csl. you need a copy of that drawing - i know it exists, and somebody has to have a copy.
Click to expand...
 
I can't find any mention of badge measurement or install. Mine are dated 6/72 with a 3/75 supplement.
 
If you could measure the holes on your cs, I think I can figure out the difference if we can't find the drawing.
Thanks
 
Why drill holes and make new rust traps? Cut of the pins and use mounting tape instead.
Remember to fill the back of the badge with epoxy to make an even surface before mounting.
 
It just so happens that my "3.0 CS" badge is off. There are five holes, three in a row furthest from the back edge of the trunk, and two closer to the edge of the trunk.

Distances for the upper row, in inches, from the right edge of the trunk: 13-1/8, 10-15/16, 7-3/8, 5-15/16, 2-5/8.

Row distance from the back edge of the trunk: upper three: 1-11/16, lower two: 3/4.

If you scratch the paint off in those locations, you should pretty quickly discover where the body filler is, and steel isn't.

If you use Henrik's suggestion, place a sheet of sandpaper (60 grit should work for starters) on the trunk lid and sand/grind the badge to conform to the sandpaper surface. I'd finish with 120 grit and spray clear epoxy on the exposed aluminum to obviate corrosion. Be sure to ease any sharp edges. Might be good to somehow space the badge slightly from the decklid surface.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top