BBS RS 16 x ???

;)

Trade for RS's 005 is a very good idea, or he can change barrels on front from 6" to 5".

Beautiful CSL Mal!! Are your BBS’s 16x8 at the front?
If you kept your front wheels and just replaced your lips to 1 inch lips instead of the current 2 inch lip, would that fix the problem?
 
i tend to think that with standard springs you will have less of a problem than with lowering springs. as long as you run 205/55-16 tires, the width of the wheel is less important. those are beautifully finished BBS wheels.


I have 16" Alpinas and running 205/50/16 front tyres. I get very slight slicing of the tyres on cornering fast or over speed bumps when the suspension compresses. I also find my silver arch trim does not fit 100% flush on underside of fender lip and it has a sharp edge which doesn't help.
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Mal, are you running 205/50 or 205/55-16's? standard matching original diameter is 205/55-16

Hi Peter,
You are likely going to have problems with a 8x16” ET20 hitting your shocks, not your lip. It is when you space it out to avoid the shock that you will risk hitting your lip.

doesn't a lower ET offset number move the center of the wheel further out? or am i remembering it wrong again? its only a 4mm difference than the RS 006
 
Beautiful CSL Mal!! Are your BBS’s 16x8 at the front?
If you kept your front wheels and just replaced your lips to 1 inch lips instead of the current 2 inch lip, would that fix the problem?

Wouldn't replacing the lips be much more work/expensive than just rolling them?

This is one of my front tyres. Am on 16" Alpinas. Running slightly lowered springs too. Unfortunately when I bought the car, it had brand new tyres all round which showed no cutting. So I was none the wiser to this problem.

Was only after few weeks I started noticing the issue. Have been driving as is for a year+, but I know I need to sort this out!

My options are 1) go back to standard springs all round - probably too expensive, and may not look as good, but retains originality 2) Try to get the fenders rolled (without messing up the paint) and the silver trim bent in a bit, yet this compromises originality.


20170714_123442 copy.jpg
 
i tend to think that with standard springs you will have less of a problem than with lowering springs. as long as you run 205/55-16 tires, the width of the wheel is less important. those are beautifully finished BBS wheels.



Mal, are you running 205/50 or 205/55-16's? standard matching original diameter is 205/55-16



doesn't a lower ET offset number move the center of the wheel further out? or am i remembering it wrong again? its only a 4mm difference than the RS 006

Yes. ET20 is 20mm closer to the strut from center. So a lower number such as ET11 (which is standard for 7” E9 wheels) moves the wheel only 11mm closer to the strut from center. However, an 8” Wheel at ET11 would hit the fender. The main problem with 8” ET20 wheels up front is that the tire is very close to the strut. Lowering the car won’t change that fact, and neither will camber plates. You solve the strut clearance issue on a factory setup by adding a spacer, which pushes the whee towards the fender. Once you do that camber plates can help you clear the fender.

Also stretched tires help. Personally I don’t like the look of a 205/55 tire on an 8” wheel, but I think it would okay up front. I have this setup in the rear and it looks pretty’s tupid IMO. I don’t mind the look of stretched tires on 18” “stanced” cars but it looks pretty lame on my car. They look too small, not “stretched” in the modern sense.

At 36psi, it looks like my tire is going flat. I haven’t arrived at a target pressure, but I was thinking something closer to 32-34.

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I may have come up with an option that may fix the rubbing on the guard.
The BBS’s are a 3 piece wheel and my polished wheel lips protrude 2 inches from the mesh so if I replace the 2 inch lips with 1 inch lips (see image) I will gain one inch. If the wheel is too close to the shocker then I should be able to push out the wheel from the shocker by installing wheel spacer. That should resolve the problem shouldn’t it? (I’m using your diagram here Markos, hope you don’t mind )

Hope this makes sense




Hi Peter,

Do you have BBS RS161’s (edit: RS061’s)? These are desireable wheels. A great option would be for a member to trade plus cash two RS005’s for two of your RS161’s (edit: RS061’s)

You are likely going to have problems with a 8x16” ET20 hitting your shocks, not your lip. It is when you space it out to avoid the shock that you will risk hitting your lip.
 

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I may have come up with an option that may fix the rubbing on the guard.
The BBS’s are a 3 piece wheel and my polished wheel lips protrude 2 inches from the mesh so if I replace the 2 inch lips with 1 inch lips (see image) I will gain one inch. If the wheel is too close to the shocker then I should be able to push out the wheel from the shocker by installing wheel spacer. That should resolve the problem shouldn’t it? (I’m using your diagram here Markos, hope you don’t mind )

Hope this makes sense
RS 061 have 1,5" lips, also 1,5" was showed on one of your previous photo's.
Personally i think you should be more worried about barrels on front not lips.

p.s. about a month ago one guy from Poland sent me o photo of his European market 3.0CSI (stock springs) with 2" lips RS's on front. And after i ask him about fender rubbering, he replyed that there was no such problem. He just had issue with front barrels & changed stock for 5".
 
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RS 061 have 1,5" lips, also 1,5" was showed on one of your previous photo's.
Personally i think you should be more worried about barrels on front not lips.

p.s. about a month ago one guy from Poland sent me o photo of his European market 3.0CSI (stock springs) with 2" lips RS's on front. And after i ask him about fender rubbering, he replyed that there was no such problem. He just had issue with front barrels & changed stock for 5".

I stand corrected, yes my lips are 1.5 inches. That being the case, if I put 1 inch lips on the front wheels then can I put a 10 mm wheel spacer on which will push out the wheel 10 mm away from the strut
 
The BBS’s are a 3 piece wheel and my polished wheel lips protrude 2 inches from the mesh so if I replace the 2 inch lips with 1 inch lips (see image) I will gain one inch. If the wheel is too close to the shocker then I should be able to push out the wheel from the shocker by installing wheel spacer.
That's why i wrote about 1,5" lips.

I stand corrected, yes my lips are 1.5 inches. That being the case, if I put 1 inch lips on the front wheels then can I put a 10 mm wheel spacer on which will push out the wheel 10 mm away from the strut
10mm might be not enough for 6" barrel
i still think you should be good with 1,5" lips
 
Clinton,

the only thing you need to do is to exchange the barrels and you will have 8" wheels with the correct offset. both the rs 005 + 006 have 1.5" outer lips, the difference is 5" vs 6" barrels.
 
I shouldn’t matter for fitment here, but think the RS061 and RS005 faces are just a tad different as well. Unless math is escaping me this morning you can’t get from ET20 (RS061) down to ET11 (RS005) with a 1” barrel difference. I’m getting something closer to ET13, which would fit without issue. If you look at RS061 whee flanges they are flat. RS005 faces have little pads around the bolt holes. I think that’s where the extra few mm come from.

Anyway, given how nice those faces and lips are trading barrels makes a lot of sense. Otherwise you can just buy two 5” barrels new. You could probably fit 5.5” barrels as well.
 
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Clinton,

the only thing you need to do is to exchange the barrels and you will have 8" wheels with the correct offset. both the rs 005 + 006 have 1.5" outer lips, the difference is 5" vs 6" barrels.


Would changing the lips to 2.5 inch do the same yet provide deeper rears. I believe these are 17s but this set up looks to be deeper lips on rear.
 

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