great
ordered now
thanks everybody for the research
love to install new bits and improve the performance
Bearings for steering column
- Thread starter grnder95
- Start date
ordered now
thanks everybody for the research
love to install new bits and improve the performance
How invovled is the replacement of these? Column comes out or can be done in situ?
For sure the column has to come out if you want to replace the bearings. They need to slide over both ends of the 1 foot long axle in the column, which means you have to disconnect at least one side. Near the steering wheel side that is difficult, as you then need to undo the bracket with the 4 snap bolts.
The other end is where the universal joint sits, there I hope to tap the bearing off, allowing the axle to slide out towards the engine side.
I'll get some pics this evening. And confirmation if the above actually makes any sense ;-)
The other end is where the universal joint sits, there I hope to tap the bearing off, allowing the axle to slide out towards the engine side.
I'll get some pics this evening. And confirmation if the above actually makes any sense ;-)
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Well, after 3 hours of puzzling, some short answers:
( More pics and tips on the removal/ install later, off to bed now)
- Yes, the bearings are correct.
- Yes, you need to have the column out of the car.
- No, you do not have to remove the steel bracket with the 4 snap bolts; I left it in place.
- It ain't and easy job - I really struggled with the snap rings (round wire C-clips) pn 32312083712.
Final result is however a much smoother running shaft, without any detectable play ( ofcourse I have no big 400mm Petri mounted acting as a large lever)
At first the bearings may seem incorrect, as the ID of the bearing is 0.25 mm larger then the shaft OD. The shaft is however pinced and centered inside the bearing with a spring ring (pn 32311116374) that is pushed inside the bearing with the large cilindrical wound spring.
Seeing the bearings being loose on the shaft at first was my first frowning moment, but it's really OK.
I had a quite of a battle with the 2 snap rings (round wire C-clips) pn 32312083712. Often axles are locked in place with these spring things with two ears with holes on them, needing these special pliers. The steering column uses such rings but without such ears. Thus they are hard to remove, but also hard to install. 3 screwdrivers were the answer, and a vice to hold the axle during the prying attempts. And you don't want to overstretch them taking them off as I at least wanted to reuse them. Also when installing the spring ring on the steering wheel side, you have to slide a aluminium sleeve over it, that prevents the spring ring from expanding.if you overstretch the ring during removal or installation, the alu ring won't fit over the ring. Also not with a big hammer. Amhik. @deQuincey: You might want to buy 2 new ones (50 cents each) as well, so at least you can rip the old ones off with brute force.
Anyone that can chime in how professionals get them in/out?
Are the pesky rings called "flat wire circlips" ?
( More pics and tips on the removal/ install later, off to bed now)
- Yes, the bearings are correct.
- Yes, you need to have the column out of the car.
- No, you do not have to remove the steel bracket with the 4 snap bolts; I left it in place.
- It ain't and easy job - I really struggled with the snap rings (round wire C-clips) pn 32312083712.
Final result is however a much smoother running shaft, without any detectable play ( ofcourse I have no big 400mm Petri mounted acting as a large lever)
At first the bearings may seem incorrect, as the ID of the bearing is 0.25 mm larger then the shaft OD. The shaft is however pinced and centered inside the bearing with a spring ring (pn 32311116374) that is pushed inside the bearing with the large cilindrical wound spring.
Seeing the bearings being loose on the shaft at first was my first frowning moment, but it's really OK.
I had a quite of a battle with the 2 snap rings (round wire C-clips) pn 32312083712. Often axles are locked in place with these spring things with two ears with holes on them, needing these special pliers. The steering column uses such rings but without such ears. Thus they are hard to remove, but also hard to install. 3 screwdrivers were the answer, and a vice to hold the axle during the prying attempts. And you don't want to overstretch them taking them off as I at least wanted to reuse them. Also when installing the spring ring on the steering wheel side, you have to slide a aluminium sleeve over it, that prevents the spring ring from expanding.if you overstretch the ring during removal or installation, the alu ring won't fit over the ring. Also not with a big hammer. Amhik. @deQuincey: You might want to buy 2 new ones (50 cents each) as well, so at least you can rip the old ones off with brute force.
Anyone that can chime in how professionals get them in/out?
Are the pesky rings called "flat wire circlips" ?
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Oh, and just to answer one idea from an earlier post in this thread: I do think the e10 part (#32 31 1 107 627 ) would fit. The ID (18.25m matching to the 18.00mm shaft) and OD (32.35mm matching to the 32.3 mm holes in the alu casting) are identical to the e9 part.
The bearing is however thicker, as it is a double bearing (possibly better even then an e9 single row bearing?) but there seems to be space for this wider bearing on both sides. At least when measuring it all up with a caliper it looks like it fits, the length even has about 2mm to spare. it would give you 4 rows of bearings instead of the normal 2. Not sure if more is better here though.
I haven't driven it ofcourse, not with my new e9 bearings, nor with the E10 bearings.
The bearing is however thicker, as it is a double bearing (possibly better even then an e9 single row bearing?) but there seems to be space for this wider bearing on both sides. At least when measuring it all up with a caliper it looks like it fits, the length even has about 2mm to spare. it would give you 4 rows of bearings instead of the normal 2. Not sure if more is better here though.
I haven't driven it ofcourse, not with my new e9 bearings, nor with the E10 bearings.
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Here's a bit more detail to the removal and install.
My steering shaft was suffering from bad bearings. You could still rotate the shaft; I drove with it, but especially the top bearing near the steering wheel had some distinct hard points when turning the shaft by hand. It
I started with the column out. It is essential, and I do not see any chance of replacing the bearings while it's still in the car.
First step is to remove the snap rings pn 32312083712 on the engine side. If you start this side, then you can get the tension of the large spring on the other side of the shaft, creating space for a puller there.
To get the snap rings out my best practice was to whack a small, sharp screwdriver in the ring opposite of the opening. Then I placed a second screwdriver next to it, prying the bit of the snap ring just next the the screwdriver out of it's groove. With 5 or 6 pushes the entire snap ring now is out of the groove, and can be tapped towards the end of the shaft.
After the first Snap ring is off, a spring ring comes out. This spring ring sandwiches itself between the bearing and the shaft, taking up the 0.2 airgap that exists between the bearing ID's and the shaft OD. As these rings are clamped on the shaft, and they are poking into the bearing, they are subject to wear. Mine were sharp as razor blades. If your spindle has play in the length direction, then these spring rings have worn beyond normal operation. In the pic below you can see that spring ring which is pulled into the bearing, centering the shaft in the middle of it.
Strangely, these spring rings are not identified with a partnumber on realoem; and only one of the 2 are drawn in the image. Number 9 is the spring ring, but it is not listed below. the same part is also present on your steering shaft on the other end, between #6 and #7 but the drawing doesn't picture it.
After removing the spring ring, the bearing can be tapped out with a driver and a small hammer. It's doesn't take a brutal force, the bearing doesn't even seem to get damaged:
Now that one bearing is out, the bearing on the other side can be tapped out of the steel bracket as well freeing the shaft:
My steering shaft was suffering from bad bearings. You could still rotate the shaft; I drove with it, but especially the top bearing near the steering wheel had some distinct hard points when turning the shaft by hand. It
I started with the column out. It is essential, and I do not see any chance of replacing the bearings while it's still in the car.
First step is to remove the snap rings pn 32312083712 on the engine side. If you start this side, then you can get the tension of the large spring on the other side of the shaft, creating space for a puller there.
To get the snap rings out my best practice was to whack a small, sharp screwdriver in the ring opposite of the opening. Then I placed a second screwdriver next to it, prying the bit of the snap ring just next the the screwdriver out of it's groove. With 5 or 6 pushes the entire snap ring now is out of the groove, and can be tapped towards the end of the shaft.
After the first Snap ring is off, a spring ring comes out. This spring ring sandwiches itself between the bearing and the shaft, taking up the 0.2 airgap that exists between the bearing ID's and the shaft OD. As these rings are clamped on the shaft, and they are poking into the bearing, they are subject to wear. Mine were sharp as razor blades. If your spindle has play in the length direction, then these spring rings have worn beyond normal operation. In the pic below you can see that spring ring which is pulled into the bearing, centering the shaft in the middle of it.
Strangely, these spring rings are not identified with a partnumber on realoem; and only one of the 2 are drawn in the image. Number 9 is the spring ring, but it is not listed below. the same part is also present on your steering shaft on the other end, between #6 and #7 but the drawing doesn't picture it.
After removing the spring ring, the bearing can be tapped out with a driver and a small hammer. It's doesn't take a brutal force, the bearing doesn't even seem to get damaged:
Now that one bearing is out, the bearing on the other side can be tapped out of the steel bracket as well freeing the shaft:
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