Easiest is to use PB or equivalent and just spray the entire length of each belt trim piece, run the straw across the top edge, spray and let gravity do the rest. After all, this is how water and dirt created the problem.
Belt/Waist trim - how to remove
- Thread starter fredp
- Start date
Another route is to get stuck studs out is to have the entire trim reanodized.
During anodisation process the part is prepared with a strong acid that does not attack the aluminium, but it does eat steel. It will eat the jammed studs right out of there.
During anodisation process the part is prepared with a strong acid that does not attack the aluminium, but it does eat steel. It will eat the jammed studs right out of there.
P-Blaster worked for me
Some tips for a complete refurbishment of the trim:
1. You can strip the trim by using Lye to remove the finish. Depending on how bad the finish has pitted you can sand and then polish on a wheel with multiple grades of rouge. Remember the finish is chromic annodiazation and if you want to use that process there are only 1 or 2 companies that will do that in CA and I'm sure are pretty limited in the rest of the country.
2. W&N in Germany has, in the past, sold the correct bolts and nuts in a bag of around 45 pieces. They are correct in size and a lot easier to work with than the rusted originals. I have part of a left over set.
3. If you are going to paint your Coupe then reinstall the trim make sure to let paint cure before you attach. If you don't the trim will cut into the uncured paint and deform it. In lieu of and or in addition to that Paul Cain was producing correctly dimensioned rubber pads that go between the trim and the body. The trim stands proud of the body by about the thickness of a couple of sheets of paper and eliminates the dust and dirt buildup.
Regards, Jon
1. You can strip the trim by using Lye to remove the finish. Depending on how bad the finish has pitted you can sand and then polish on a wheel with multiple grades of rouge. Remember the finish is chromic annodiazation and if you want to use that process there are only 1 or 2 companies that will do that in CA and I'm sure are pretty limited in the rest of the country.
2. W&N in Germany has, in the past, sold the correct bolts and nuts in a bag of around 45 pieces. They are correct in size and a lot easier to work with than the rusted originals. I have part of a left over set.
3. If you are going to paint your Coupe then reinstall the trim make sure to let paint cure before you attach. If you don't the trim will cut into the uncured paint and deform it. In lieu of and or in addition to that Paul Cain was producing correctly dimensioned rubber pads that go between the trim and the body. The trim stands proud of the body by about the thickness of a couple of sheets of paper and eliminates the dust and dirt buildup.
Regards, Jon
Carl Nelson has the PC belt trim spacers, if not I can get more made easily.
Klassic
Well-Known Member
Excellent tips coming through, appreciated.
After reading "eriknetherlands" post I wanted to find out more.
I had a chat to a guy at the local anodising plant, they said it is possible to dissolve the rusted steel studs, but because there has likely been electrolysis between the steel stud and aluminium moulding, there was a high risk of additional pitting and severe erosion of the aluminium around the stud. It may work fine, but the risk of blowing a hold right through the moulding is too great as one cannot control the anodising process well enough.
Others out there may have a different experience of this process to report on, certainly I would like to know if it has worked out well. Is this something that "eriknetherlands" has actually had done (seems like a good idea) ?
After reading "eriknetherlands" post I wanted to find out more.
I had a chat to a guy at the local anodising plant, they said it is possible to dissolve the rusted steel studs, but because there has likely been electrolysis between the steel stud and aluminium moulding, there was a high risk of additional pitting and severe erosion of the aluminium around the stud. It may work fine, but the risk of blowing a hold right through the moulding is too great as one cannot control the anodising process well enough.
Others out there may have a different experience of this process to report on, certainly I would like to know if it has worked out well. Is this something that "eriknetherlands" has actually had done (seems like a good idea) ?
Maybe I am missing something but the OP was asking about removing the trim from the car, yes? I just don't recall removal to be that hard. Nuts were not an issue since they are (95% of them) within the car interior (protecting from the elements?) and unscrewed easy enough. Trim removed and to workbench. PB blaster on the flat base part in the track, punch and light knock at the base with a small hammer and they came loose. PIA to slide them to the closest notch on the trim to remove them, but not a big deal. Gotta clean the trim track anyway to allow the new hardware to slide in nicely. When re-installing, dab of 3M strip caulk around each base part to seal from the outside to aid the rubberized base of the nut on the inside. Refinishing is a whole other issue.
I also tapped stuck studs with a screwdriver and they all came free.
Klassic
Well-Known Member
Removing the trim is easy, the next step is removing the studs (screws) from the track, I assumed this was part of the process of total removal? Your experience may have been straight forward, mine is not. I have used all types of penetrating oils, neutralisers to release the studs. Several are broken, most totally stuck even after liberal chemical treatment, tapping with a hammer and drift, manipulating with pliers. I'm seeking advice because I'm out of ideas and bi bit frustrated, perhaps I sound have started another thread?
Sorry yours are that stuck, I would wiggle with pliers even if threads are destroyed but you have already tried that.
Klassic
Well-Known Member
Maybe I should just hit things harder... LOL
Heat?
Klassic
Well-Known Member
Good suggestion, I'll get my mother in law to breath on it...
I'll give it a go, might be just enough to get things moving.
I'll give it a go, might be just enough to get things moving.
Oldbmwcoupes
Well-Known Member
Love the mother in law reply!
Hi,
@Klassic
No i havent tried the anodising route myself. I would listen to the professional: if he advises against it, I would also think of other options.
I think I would take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and slice the rusted studs in pieces.
I also consider an angle grinder to be an instrument of precision: if you're comfortable with it, I think it will be much faster.
Shorten the stud to nearly flush with the alu surface, then cut into it along its axis, slicing it in two. Should get the pieces out easily.
No harm if you lightly touch the aluminium, it's the backside, no one will see it.
Will take some time if you to get 20 studs out or so, but it will get it done.
@Klassic
No i havent tried the anodising route myself. I would listen to the professional: if he advises against it, I would also think of other options.
I think I would take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and slice the rusted studs in pieces.
I also consider an angle grinder to be an instrument of precision: if you're comfortable with it, I think it will be much faster.
Shorten the stud to nearly flush with the alu surface, then cut into it along its axis, slicing it in two. Should get the pieces out easily.
No harm if you lightly touch the aluminium, it's the backside, no one will see it.
Will take some time if you to get 20 studs out or so, but it will get it done.
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Klassic
Well-Known Member
Getting it sorted using a Dremel tool I think is where it will get to. The trim will be applied to another project e9 I've got in storage, that will eventually be a road car.
In the meantime l've solved the problem by fitting a self adhesive chrome strip. I know it's not "correct" but at the end of the day it's a race car.
Appreciate the replies.
In the meantime l've solved the problem by fitting a self adhesive chrome strip. I know it's not "correct" but at the end of the day it's a race car.
Appreciate the replies.
Attachments
how I did on my E9 I cut all the rusty bolts with this tools on the picture the blades are tiny but you will destroy the paint bot not that bad in my case I was going to paint the car so I care less about the paint but I did not damage the moldings that is hard to fined after taking out I spray easy off and remove the anodize that was badly scratch and use sand and German maid metal polish and now shine better than before after make it shine I spray special aluminum clear coting from CERAKOTE that is stronger than anodize and better shine but I tell you it took me 2 week to restore it it wasn't easy. I can explain more if you have more questions.
Attachments
Klassic
Well-Known Member
That Cerekote looks interesting, I've not seen that before. It would be easy enough to modify a "renovator" attachment to fit into the slot to clear it out, I imagine. I will give it a go.