i agree with Peter. post a no-haggle price right here ... there is a good chance you will get it, or hopefully close.
Best way to sell e9 these days?
- Thread starter taylorcom
- Start date
taylorcom
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Could be a good idea.
Dude! Where have you been?
taylorcom
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I've been asking just under $30k.
taylorcom
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There's a new development as of yesterday: discovery of a leak in the clutch master cylinder. A failed cylinder may be the cause of clutch failure, according to sfdon. I'll need to explore that possibility.
I've found a rebuild kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clutch-master-cylinder-repair-kit-21521102625
I'm wondering if it's possible to rebuild the cylinder w/o removing it from the car (?)
I've found a rebuild kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clutch-master-cylinder-repair-kit-21521102625
I'm wondering if it's possible to rebuild the cylinder w/o removing it from the car (?)
No it must be removed and the expansion tank gets in the way as well
tdgray
Well-Known Member
But it’s not a terrible removal. The bottom bolts is a bitch but it can be done. Think it took me about a half day because I was figuring it out as I went.
Yes, the tank needs to be temporarily relocated.
Yes, the tank needs to be temporarily relocated.
The biggest challenge is holding the nuts or bolts from moving as you work in either the engine or passenger compartments. otherwise it is fairly straight forward.
taylorcom
Well-Known Member
Might be a good time to replace the expansion tank. It's a plastic one that has developed a crack just below the top opening. I do have the original brass expansion tank, which of course has a leaky seam.
A seam should be a relatively easy fix at a radiator shop. The brass tank would look great polished up, but either way it will be an improvement.
taylorcom
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A fresh coat of paint would brighten it up considerably.
Attachments
taylorcom
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Does anyone know what this brown oval piece is (see arrow)? It's missing from a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit that arrived promptly this week.
It has been years since I rebuilt my clutch master cylinder and I cant find the pictures that I took so no help on that specific part.
Generally the parts you are most concerned with are the three rubber seals in the center of your picture. The part that is leaking is the middle seal that rides on the piston inside the cylinder and is most critical for creating pressure to move the slave cylinder.
The hard part such as the clip could always be rebuilt unless broken during removal or badly rusted.
Generally the parts you are most concerned with are the three rubber seals in the center of your picture. The part that is leaking is the middle seal that rides on the piston inside the cylinder and is most critical for creating pressure to move the slave cylinder.
The hard part such as the clip could always be rebuilt unless broken during removal or badly rusted.
Agree
taylorcom
Well-Known Member
There are a few screws that are holding the part in place.
I grabbed this picture off the internet and you can see the mounting points at the edges of the part.
- One attaches to the console side panel
- One is inside the driver's side glove (oddments) box. As I recall it is a bolt that also affixes the limiter slide for the glove box
- One is forward, towards the firewall. this one as I recall is a 10mm sheet metal screw that attaches to the same mounting point as the hinge for the driver's side glove compartment.
I grabbed this picture off the internet and you can see the mounting points at the edges of the part.
taylorcom
Well-Known Member
Thanks. It feels like I have at least 2 of the points disconnected. One seems to be hanging up. I'll check that hinge area again.
taylorcom
Well-Known Member
I've removed the circlip (which broke due to my lack of circlip pliers) but can't see how to get the piston out of the cylinder. Maybe a blast of air through the feed tube?
All ideas are welcome, tx.
All ideas are welcome, tx.
This manual will help...page #61. https://e9coupe.com/tech/autobooks/autobooks_manual.pdf
You are correct, a little compressed air will move the piston and seal out of the bore. Make sure to use low pressure, and point the piston towards a container with some rags so you don't damage the piston you don't want it to score the cylinder when you re-assemble.
You will want to hone the cylinder lightly to get a fresh surface, then wash it out with brakekleen or similar. Use some brake fluid as an assembly lube and reverse your process.
You are correct, a little compressed air will move the piston and seal out of the bore. Make sure to use low pressure, and point the piston towards a container with some rags so you don't damage the piston you don't want it to score the cylinder when you re-assemble.
You will want to hone the cylinder lightly to get a fresh surface, then wash it out with brakekleen or similar. Use some brake fluid as an assembly lube and reverse your process.