Bosch Blue Coil

Depends

Only use Bosch ignition coils, No 0 221 119 017 or
0221 102 050 with resistor. ( Used with point type distributer)

Caution! Never install ignition coil Bosch No. 0 221 122 003. (It is reserved for the early electronic versions)


Never use a blue. Made in Brazil and puts out the least.
 
RonP said:
Greetings coupesters. I am looking for the part number for the blue coil for D-Jet. I bought the 0221119027 and it's the wrong part. I found the part from these guys http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BOS-00012 but I need the correct Bosch number and not their internal number. I did a search on this site, and plenty of info on red, blue, and black, but not part number.

TIA,
RP
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i have one question ron, the one that you bought is a bosch original ?
is it silver finished ? and made in brazil ?
thanks
 
deQuincey said:
i have one question ron, the one that you bought is a bosch original ?
is it silver finished ? and made in brazil ?
thanks
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Yes, to both. I got the number from Ireland Engineering next door. Phil wants to use the blue coil only and this is not the one. I just want to get him what he wants.
 
Interesting....

Ron,
I would love to hear what you find out. Back in the day, for D-jet, the preferred was the so called "blue" coil. Now I find the blue to come from various sources....Mexico, Brazil, etc. Some have built in resistance and apparently some do not....be careful.
Wasn't there was a post not too long ago where a member was doing a Pertronics conversion and changed his old coil to a new blue unit? For reasons explained by him this killed his ECU. I did the same thing, changed to blue, yet I had no terminal issues at the time. Ran this coil for years, but I would have intermittent performance issues. Nothing I could put my finger on. Seems to me, at the risk of talking out my ass, that the ECU is sensitive and wants a specific coil resistance....dead on. I have now gone back to my old coil, black with red label, German manufacture. Sorry that has no identifiers that I can see.
I have a wide band O2 sensor in place these days so I can see changes quite easily. For sure the old "black" plays nicer with the ECU. I would be willing to try the so called "red coil" and wire up for the external 1.8 ohm resister. This seems to me to be a safer bet than to use a blue coil of unknown tolerances.
 
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No DQ.

RP- the original Blue coil was of German Manufacture. You'll have to source that one as it's NLA and would be NOS. Unfortunately Bosch outsourced at some time and the end result was less than expected. YGM.

What coil is used is dependent on your setup of either points, oem transistor, or Pertronix. The first two can handle 22.5KV. The latter requires less or you'll fry. AKA a resistor.

The Blue coil- aka the Brazilian, etc. puts out 17.5KV. So no, don't; unless you're stranded somewhere and it's temporary. Not even on a VW.


Now just to screw things up more- the original blue coil is now the "red" coil but it's silver. ( I paint all mine black. Well, I did keep an original 6v german blue for a 356. Heresy, I know. So no death threats.) French Blue Krylon matches if you find one less than concours.

Finally, I stopped tracking changes Bosch made- over six on just blue coils.
 
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So....

What you are saying, 61, is that you use the 030 suffix coil, quote "high energy" as seen on the right in this photo in conjunction with the 1.8 ohm resister.
The "blue" on the left I see as a door stop and I included it as an example of what you do not want for D-jet. Unfortunate that the good used coils are not stamped or labeled, sticker only, that is not durable. Love to tell you all what I have had success with, but see no numbers of use. Is a coil testable other than direct replacement? Hmmm....battery to dizzy w/ points and condenser on the bench, fire it and measure the resulting voltage? Could be fun...
 

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Yep

unless you've got the real german blue or an original black.

Yes, you can measure coils for voltage and resistance and should just to record what you've got as a baseline. It's better than waiting for it to stop you cold or if that mystery running problem rears it's head.
 
Sorry

For not doing my home work. 61 you are indeed correct. 017 for sans resistor....the only way to go. If I were to go it blind, then for sure install the resistor....cheap insurance.
Interesting to discuss as history. Burnt points as an example. Did we not have condensers that we could select to a microfarad rating as to adjust to the coil and have happy points? Pertronics seems to me to be an upgrade in this regard....constant pulse to the coil. Way back when, dinosaurs ruled the earth! Hence D-jet. Always an adventure...Stayed tuned
 
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Jerry,

The red and silver replace the black coil and needs 1.8 ohm external resistor, originally 1.1 ohm. 1.8 ohm resistor available at AutohausAZ for $27. Blue is internally resisted and is not replaced by red/silver.
 
I agree Chris

it's all a bit confusing. Red, Blue, Black, etc. Don't use a new blue coil. It puts out less and it's not original if that matters.

But what respectible sports car hasn't been tuned up? As far as coil voltage goes, it matters most at idle.

Steve- the german ones still exisit out there. A little fishing and you'll find it.

Pamp- the lesson is to check if you do need a resistor and what size.

Capacitors do wierd things before they go - mainly retard the ignition timing badly, and then no start; direct to ground. But they show up first as blue points. My story is that my wife had an occasion/ need to use the coupe- came back smiling- "running great".Never mind her first car was a Healy with side curtains and no heater with several feet of snow in the winter. I surely would have heard bad news if the trip was less than enjoyable for her. So you just never know.

The bottom line in all of this is a lot of information on lessons learned has disappeared unfortunately. If I knew that my ignition voltage was off by 15% for a $30 part, I'd surely want to fix it.

An occilliscope engine tester used to show all these faults with small shorts, bad grounds, bad wires, etc. If you have an original repair manual the tune-up section is large but dedicated to analysers. Useful info.
 
okay guys, question ... i have an old bosch blue coil 0221119027 (00 012). i bought this from Korman in the mid / late 80's and never installed in on my Bavaria. no where on the coil does it mention where it is from - there is a label written in german ... but ...

so what do i have? see picture below. its been sitting on my shelf for quite a while ... since my cars have efi, i never thought about using it.
 

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Looks like made in Spain (next best thing to Germany. DQ?) before production went to Brazil. NLA for as long as the German ones. Tricky German sticker just to throw you off though.

The Blues were made/ available without resistors for a period of time. You have to measure the resistance. A resistance coil will measure 3-4 ohms. vs. 1-2.

One myth is that the early ones had tan bakelite tops. Another is that the top is marked Germany. Another does it rattle when you shake it- shouldn't. Another is dual lugs on both terminals- it shouldn't. So the myth continues.
 
Jerry,

a. it doesn't rattle
b. nothing on the top saying germany, spain or brazil.
c. dual lugs on both terminals? mine has three spade connectors at each terminal.
d. obviously - mine has a black top
 
61porsche said:
Looks like made in Spain (next best thing to Germany. DQ?) before production went to Brazil. NLA for as long as the German ones. Tricky German sticker just to throw you off though.

The Blues were made/ available without resistors for a period of time. You have to measure the resistance. A resistance coil will measure 3-4 ohms. vs. 1-2.

One myth is that the early ones had tan bakelite tops. Another is that the top is marked Germany. Another does it rattle when you shake it- shouldn't. Another is dual lugs on both terminals- it shouldn't. So the myth continues.
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ha, ha, spain vs germany ? their relations are not in the best moment, you know,...Angela is really tough ! it is also a question about where in spain, do not try to find good olive oil in the north...

i remove a blue bosch coil from my car long time ago. the top was partially broken, and it was a bakelite tan coloured top
 
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61porsche said:
What coil is used is dependent on your setup of either points, oem transistor, or Pertronix. The first two can handle 22.5KV. The latter requires less or you'll fry. AKA a resistor.

my setup is the pure basic points original distributor, no changes, no additions

The Blue coil- aka the Brazilian, etc. puts out 17.5KV. So no, don't; unless you're stranded somewhere and it's temporary. Not even on a VW.

can it be checked somehow that put out ? how can i meassure it ?
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jerry, answers in your text, thanks
 
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