brake bleed question

61porsche said:
The manual is pretty good on this part. Pay attention to the stop bolt and the sequence of the pistons.

Sometimes if there's light bore corrosion- VW brake hone used in a container with brake fluid. Other wise it's toast.

Rub the lucky box and shout schnell!
Click to expand...

Schnell Schnell...


if the spring broke, like you predicted i'll be SOL that's just the two things missing in my redo kit...
I found one for 45 bucks, though
 
ok... i got the answer

took the M/C out this morning . opened her up and saw that the
two seals in both chambers were broken to pieces.
Like i said, even though the M/C looked new, i had no idea how old it
actually was. the internals were all dry rotted
 
So while i was troubleshooting the M/C...the clutch suddenly went limp :confused:
i bleed the thing for a while and then, thought this is not good.
so i took the slave cylinder out and changed the gaskets.
tried it and saw no change.
then i knew i had to do the clutch master nightmare all over.
once i had it on the bench apart , i found this inside.
clutchslave.jpg

there was a little brass nugget inside and it shred the rubber thingy.
came to find out the nugget was a washer once :( it must have flipped inside
and got folded and folded again...
 
Bled.....

Slow and steady on the initial bleeding. On the pressure bleeder- low pressure, less than 15.

Tap the calipers ( lightly) with a hammer when you think you're close to finishing a wheel.

50% of the solution is finding the problem. You're getting there!
 
mission creep

so i rebuild the M/C. went great until i took the car around the block.
heard a 'bang' noise when i used the brake. i thought maybe the rear bias valve
blew off... that's what it sounded like anyway.
put the car back in the garage.
found a puddle on the garage floor today and no fluid in the rear portion of the reservoir. i thought maybe the rear seal is leaking.
but no... the fluid leaks from under the M/C... which reminded me of that banging noise...
seems the M/C fractured :(
 
Thanks John Buchtenkirch! I finished detailing the underside of my car and the project included rebuilding and painting the calipers. Sure enough, I installed the rears backwards and couldn't get them to bleed. The rears would move a little fluid but not much. Seemingly no air in the system but the pedal would go to the floor. I could pump up the brakes and they would stop the car but it was not right. I was stumped until I read your advice. I flipped them around and they bled without issue. Rock hard pedal!
 
After bad luck rebuilding masters over the years, I just go new and save the aggravation of possibly doing it twice or replacing it anyway. I was also taught when rebuilding, the cylinder should be lightly honed. The money savings isn't worth it . OR send it out to Apple Hydraulics or White Post Restorations and have them "sleeved" in stainless, rebuilt by them and be done with it for ever
 
To Mr. Buchtenkirch's point about bleeding the MC, which should be done, instead of mounting it in a vice, I loosen the pipe connections at the MC from front to back, one at a time, have faithful wifey depress pedal and watch for bubbles spraying out, tighten nut. Do the MC after the brakes are bled. Seems to work well.
 
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