Brake Pressure Regulator - Help!

Michael Kaye

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Hi all.

My mechanic has just messaged me to say that my brake pressure regulator is, and I quote, “ full of sh*t” (I don’t think he’s very happy with it!).

There apparently is a place in the US that rebuilds them (or supplies rebuild kits) but just wondering if any of my fellow Europeans or UK owners know where I might be able to get it rebuilt?

Bill also mentioned about not wanting to mess with the operating pressure. I don’t know enough about this part? Do they need adjusting and if so how is it done?

Thanks all. michael.
 
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Gransin

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The regulator near rear axle is not adjustable.

I had mine opened just to inspect before I painted it, but can't for the life of me remember if it actually was adjustable or not.
I would have said it was adjustable just from looking at it now, but I can't say for sure.
Sorry Michael, I don't have any idea where to get it rebuilt.
 

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Keshav

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Hi all.

My mechanic has just messages me to say that my brake pressure regulator is, and I quote, “ full of sh*t” (I don’t think he’s very happy with it!).

There apparently is a place in the US that rebuilds them (or supplies rebuild kits) but just wondering if any of my fellow Europeans or UK owners know where I might be able to get it rebuilt?

Bill also mentioned about not wanting to mess with the operating pressure. I don’t know enough about this part? Do they need adjusting and if so how is it done?

Thanks all. michael.

if all else fails....

 

Drew20

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I went to look in my stash of treasures. Turns out I have one from an E12/E24 6er which I broke many years back
It would need different plumbing as on E12 it lives in the engine bay
 

deQuincey

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Hi all.

My mechanic has just messaged me to say that my brake pressure regulator is, and I quote, “ full of sh*t” (I don’t think he’s very happy with it!).

There apparently is a place in the US that rebuilds them (or supplies rebuild kits) but just wondering if any of my fellow Europeans or UK owners know where I might be able to get it rebuilt?

Bill also mentioned about not wanting to mess with the operating pressure. I don’t know enough about this part? Do they need adjusting and if so how is it done?

Thanks all. michael.

i have rebuilt three of these, it is very easy, find the thread, it has photos and description of how to do it


 
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Michael Kaye

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I went to look in my stash of treasures. Turns out I have one from an E12/E24 6er which I broke many years back
It would need different plumbing as on E12 it lives in the engine bay

Thank you. Good to know - I might be coming to you if the rebuild goes badly wrong.
 

mark99

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there is a guy that advertises here sometimes that rebuilds hydraulic stuff, he did mine, looks great, have not used it yet, PM me if you can't find him
his name is Jay Stratton
 

Michael Kaye

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there is a guy that advertises here sometimes that rebuilds hydraulic stuff, he did mine, looks great, have not used it yet, PM me if you can't find him
his name is Jay Stratton

thanks Mark. I’m in the UK. My mechanic has made contact with a guy in the US (which may well be jay) who does rebuilds, but turnaround time is 5 weeks.

So he’s ordered a rebuild kit instead and thinks he’ll be fine with it. fingers cross!

thanks for the heads up though.
 

Ohmess

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My regulator too was full of crap. Apparently, when the brake hoses to the calipers deteriorate, they can discharge tiny little bits of rubber into the brake fluid. These normally would not flow up to the regulator, but if you happen to drain the front part of your hydraulic system while modifying the system as part of a five-speed conversion, for example, the rubbers bitscan get sucked into the regulator.

Lesson here is to change the brake hoses promptly when you buy a couple unless you know for certain they were recently changed.
 

Michael Kaye

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My regulator too was full of crap. Apparently, when the brake hoses to the calipers deteriorate, they can discharge tiny little bits of rubber into the brake fluid. These normally would not flow up to the regulator, but if you happen to drain the front part of your hydraulic system while modifying the system as part of a five-speed conversion, for example, the rubbers bitscan get sucked into the regulator.

Lesson here is to change the brake hoses promptly when you buy a couple unless you know for certain they were recently changed.

that’s good to hear in a strange way as it means mine isn’t the only one!

Brake hoses have now been changed and waiting for a rebuild kit to arrive.

hopefully after new hoses, new boosters, new regulator, rebuilt master cyclinder, I’ll finally know how an E9 is supposed to stop!
 

Ohmess

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Yes, I spent some time driving with a clogged regulator, meaning I had only front brakes!

If you need to buy another regulator, you may want to check whether there is an e3 part that fits as it may well cost less than an e9 part.
 

Michael Kaye

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Yes, I spent some time driving with a clogged regulator, meaning I had only front brakes!

If you need to buy another regulator, you may want to check whether there is an e3 part that fits as it may well cost less than an e9 part.

thanks. Yes apparently the regulator from an E3 will fit. There’s one on eBay but sadly no cheaper than the E9 ones I’ve seen.

hopefully the rebuild kit will do the job. Arrives here in the UK (from the US) on Friday...
 

eriknetherlands

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If the regulator is the thing under the rear of the car, balancing the front and rear brake pressure, it isnt all that difficult, just some simple parts. (i could be wrong in the identification of what you guys mean by "regulator" ).
Edit: Dequincey's how-to is exquisite as always. Just follow that and experience the how-does-DeQ-make-it-all-look-so-easy?.
Adjusting of the front/rear pressure is done by the screw at the back of the unit, which i have been advised not to alter. It basically compresses the spring inside, increasing the force you need to open the path to the rear wheels. Turning the thread further inwards means more pressure before the rear brakes join in. So i have meaured the thread length sticking out (i have a pic on my pc but camping right now, i vagually remember 11 mm), and then proceeded to disassemble the lot.
Zinced some parts, painted the cast iron housing and screwed it all back together.
No fuss involved.

Truth is i did not yet drive 1 meter with the car, so i cant state that it has prooven to be succesful, but i do know that what i did was not difficult. I remember you need a large socket to open it up; something like 25 or 30 mm's.
 
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Michael Kaye

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So i have meaured the thread length sticking out (i have a pic on my pc but camping right now, i vagualy remember 11 mm), and then proceeded to disassemble the lot.

exactly what my mechanic says he has done. So good to hear it’s the right approach.

Also good to hear it is relatively simple procedure. Rebuild kit (ordered) has the correct O rings and gasket.

hopefully once cleaned and put back together it’ll be all good to go.

m.
 
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