Brake problems - Hot Wheels edition

Stevehose said:
Ok thanks to @Luis A. I have procured China’s finest alignment tool. There are no instructions except for the cryptic ones on Amazon, and the text on the device is confusing, but the blind squirrel has adapted and overcome!

It doesn’t fit over the master cyl (as several in the reviews noted) so I whittled the edges down to clear. I used the rounded end of the rod to measure the distance inside the pipe:

View attachment 176856

Then put it on the booster to see the clearance with the rod (the tip pulls straight off the rod (does not unscrew)).

View attachment 176857

Even with all 3 washers off it was still barely touching so I sanded just enough off for .5mm clearance:

View attachment 176858

So basically the MC was being pushed in by at least 2.5mm over spec. It appears to me that the inside pipe of the MC bottoms out right at the front edge of the booster, so you want the tip of the booster rod to be just under the front edge. I’m hoping this solves the issue and provides insight to those replacing a rebuilt booster in the future. Onward.
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wow, good one
excellent
recorded in my brain for the future

Arde said:
Fixed by the board in less than a week, like we always do. Mechanical, car thefts, anything except marital issues.
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sort of e9wikipaedia
i am sure that the group knowledge in marital issues will be able also to help

pity there are few female members to be representative enough
 
Well I too have gotten bit by this issue. I have been test driving my 70 2800cs after over a 3 year compete restoration/refresh. After about the 4th or 5th trip of around 30 miles, nearing home, I start smelling something burning AND the car seemed all of a sudden very sluggish.

Verified the symptoms with my local resident @Stevehose, who started the thread, and upon checking the front calipers and rear drums, there were very very hot and the car would not coast in the driveway.

So took apart off MC and borrowed @Stevehose "calibrated special tool" referenced in this thread. Found that the I needed to take off at least 1/16" of the tip coming out of the booster. Wow! Anyhow I did so, set the .5mm gap (.020") and is now going back together. Certainly hope this was the issue.

I of course did not read the workshop (me bad) manual section on setting the gap. I have had the car for over 30 years and the MC has probably been off several times for replacement/rebuild, and never had an issue. The booster was never off until the restoration, and it was just rebuilt. So the only this that has changed is the rebuilding of the booster. I suppose I thought that really nothing had changed, same MC same booster. Why read the manual. Wrong!

Now of course have to bleed the brakes and I had an awful time when assembling the car. Also I hate brake fluid.

I too want to thank all those who identified the problem in this thread.

jjs2800cs
 
Hello jjs2800cs, I hate messy brake fluid also, Strongly recommend purchasing one of these units for brake fluid related issues. It makes routine flush’s a joy and you only need one person. Loosen the cap on the second bottle a bit for a venting. Works good for the clutch too.
Thank Stevehose for his invention.
Larry Louton
Venice, Florida
IMG_2478.jpeg
 
Larry Louton said:
Hello jjs2800cs, I hate messy brake fluid also, Strongly recommend purchasing one of these units for brake fluid related issues. It makes routine flush’s a joy and you only need one person. Loosen the cap on the second bottle a bit for a venting. Works good for the clutch too.
Thank Stevehose for his invention.
Larry Louton
Venice, Florida View attachment 183205
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Thanks for the tip for the power bleeder. I have a couple of other old cars so I may finally invest in one. BUT I am not sure that using it will ever make a "routine flush’s a joy "!!! I can't imagine doing anything using brake fluid would ever be a joy. In the interim it's going to be the old down/up with a suitable volunteer.

Thanks
jjs2800cs
 
Steve,
I had this exact problem during my Jaguar E Type restoration - a completely new brake system, just as you described. I could only go 1 mile before they'd overhead. Turns out the master cylinder I had was aftermarket and the check valve was not relieving the pressure when the pedal came back to rest. After a lot of rebuilding, swapping and testing I installed an OEM master cylinder and the problem disappeared. Good luck, this type of failure mode is so frustrating.
 
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