Bumper Trim Clips

[GRKOALA]

Hi Guys, I’m trying to understand how the bumper trim clips / attach to the rear bumper and the rubber. Originally, it seems that my 1974 rear bumper had a metal strip that was riveted/tacked onto the bumper and the rubber attached/fixed to the metal strip. My question to those who have successfully used the metal clips is how do I attach the clips to the bumper?

 

[HB Chris]

Those clips are for the big impact absorbing US style bumpers.

 

[inovermyhead]

The clips are available from W/N and are riveted onto the bumper, then the rubber strip is slid onto the clip. Take care to ensure the clip lines up properly with the bumper, and I painted mine with Por 15 before assembly.

Cheers John

 

[GRKOALA]

The clips are available from W/N and are riveted onto the bumper, then the rubber strip is slid onto the clip. Take care to ensure the clip lines up properly with the bumper, and I painted mine with Por 15 before assembly.

Cheers John

Ok great, I was just searching as to where to buy this strip from. I’ll give it a go and hopefully everything lines up nicely Cheers for the info

 

[GRKOALA]

Wallothnesch do supply them, Can anyone recommend any other suppliers for the support rails?

 

[rsporsche]

Coupeguy used to sell stainless steel ones. i just looked and didn't see them on his site. the steel ones from BMW or W+N will rust and eventually fall off like many have ... but since none of us drive our coupes in the rain if we can help it ... perhaps this shouldn't be a problem any more.

 

[inovermyhead]

Scott, I painted mine with Por 15 before putting them on in an effort to slow the rust problem, I’ll let you know how that worked in about 10 years or so....

John

 

[HB Chris]

I powder coated mine.

 

[GRKOALA]

I’ve also emailed Jamic in the UK to see if they still sell their stainless steel version

 

[pat cooks]

a good sheet metal workshop, maybe a custom shop lighting place could easily make those strips in stainless or zintec, zintec would be a lot easier and outlast most of us, they were held on with pop rivets, you need a guilotene to cut the strip and a ginny to roll the groove, or a press tool, the strips from WN seem very expensive for a simple part, something I could make when I get my sheet metal equipment set up, Pat UK

2002 touring Tii my daily driver
3.0cs soon to be csi current project for this winter
3.0cs already injection but 3 speed auto !!!! awaiting fate.
3.0csl all good but not to original spec. yet..
E30 318is touring My Son uses this one
1960 MGA 1600 mk1 soft top owned for 45 years waiting for second restoration
1924 Matchless model K car go on google it! unique 1 of 1
1929 Dodge DA sedan RHD ex Africa all good, often used for weddings, used it as daily driver for a few years
Mk2 Jaguar under restoration and modification from 240 to 3.4 Mk2
around 18-20 pre war Matchless motorcycles, 1914---1941 about 8 in running order, several just piles of bits, and the bare bones of an AJS 7R, don't ask!

 

[GRKOALA]

a good sheet metal workshop, maybe a custom shop lighting place could easily make those strips in stainless or zintec, zintec would be a lot easier and outlast most of us, they were held on with pop rivets, you need a guilotene to cut the strip and a ginny to roll the groove, or a press tool, the strips from WN seem very expensive for a simple part, something I could make when I get my sheet metal equipment set up, Pat UK

2002 touring Tii my daily driver
3.0cs soon to be csi current project for this winter
3.0cs already injection but 3 speed auto !!!! awaiting fate.
3.0csl all good but not to original spec. yet..
E30 318is touring My Son uses this one
1960 MGA 1600 mk1 soft top owned for 45 years waiting for second restoration
1924 Matchless model K car go on google it! unique 1 of 1
1929 Dodge DA sedan RHD ex Africa all good, often used for weddings, used it as daily driver for a few years
Mk2 Jaguar under restoration and modification from 240 to 3.4 Mk2
around 18-20 pre war Matchless motorcycles, 1914---1941 about 8 in running order, several just piles of bits, and the bare bones of an AJS 7R, don't ask!

Yes, sadly the two strips are very expensive at 45.50 Euros for 2 then the WN postage policy is a flat fee (I’m in Australia) of 75.00 Euros. If I needed more items to purchase then I could justify the postage fee but I think I’ll wait till I need to buy more for WN or look for an alternative supplier for these items.

 

[damienh]

I bought those strips and can testify it's a total pain to get right. I just can't the rubber back on properly. I didn't get it symmetrical, so it's a tiny bit too high, there is now a big gap on the topside, also it's hard to follow the curve around the corner of the bumper. I too covered everything with POR15.

I wish I'd just cut up some pieces of scrap sheet metal instead, which I seem to remember someone else on the forum doing, (worth trying to find that old thread) I don't think it's really necessary to have a full length strip on each side, it just makes the job harder.

 

[Gransin]

I bought those strips and can testify it's a total pain to get right. I just can't the rubber back on properly. I didn't get it symmetrical, so it's a tiny bit too high, there is now a big gap on the topside, also it's hard to follow the curve around the corner of the bumper. I too covered everything with POR15.

I wish I'd just cut up some pieces of scrap sheet metal instead, which I seem to remember someone else on the forum doing, (worth trying to find that old thread) I don't think it's really necessary to have a full length strip on each side, it just makes the job harder.

Did you use new rubber, or did you put back the old rubber?
I recently replaced my old rusty rails/strips with new ones from W&N, kept the old rubber as it's still in pretty good condition, and I have to say it went much much smoother than I ever could have imagined.
But I didn't treat the strips with anything (like POR15), only used a little bit of lube when I pushed the rubber back on.

 

[damienh]

Did you use new rubber, or did you put back the old rubber?
I recently replaced my old rusty rails/strips with new ones from W&N, kept the old rubber as it's still in pretty good condition, and I have to say it went much much smoother than I ever could have imagined.
But I didn't treat the strips with anything (like POR15), only used a little bit of lube when I pushed the rubber back on.

I used the POR15 because I can see it’s a bit of a water trap. I used the old rubber, but it seems almost if it has shrunk, although I didn’t heat it as they say you should. I think it will never fit properly though as my strips are not 100% in the correct location. I need to have another go when I have some free time. I treated the inside of the bumper with POR15 while is was at it, that went well.


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[damienh]

I wonder if you have any gaps between rubber and chrome now you have completed the job ? you can fit a finger between mine ! looks terrible.

 

[Gransin]

I wonder if you have any gaps between rubber and chrome now you have completed the job ? you can fit a finger between mine ! looks terrible.

Nope, I dont have any gaps at all.
A gap big as the finger seems very big...

 

[damienh]

Yes it isn't ideal. Encouraging to hear it can be done though. I guess it was hard to match the position of the old strips as they had completely disintegrated. Maybe I should post a guide of how not to do it.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Coming from multiple 40 yr. old re-installations of both front and rear rubber strips; remove the strips and clean them REALLY WELL then treat (I use Mc Guires)sp? The trick -with the ones I've done is to let the rubber relax for a couple of days and soak up the monkey snot, then the most important thing is to get the new channel strips dead center on the bumper. Too high and you'll have a gap on top, too low and the gap will be on the bottom. Make sure the rubber conforms to the bumper first and if not you may be stuck trying to find "new" rubber, but try centering the strip first.

Hope that helps