Carburetor swap weber 38
- Thread starter E3AV
- Start date
The wires are labeled 1-6? Can you take a pic?
The longest wire goes to 6, the shortest to 1. If you are timing off the #6 plug with the flywheel ball then your timing is 180 degrees off.
The longest wire goes to 6, the shortest to 1. If you are timing off the #6 plug with the flywheel ball then your timing is 180 degrees off.
My suggestion is that you confirm that the engine is at top dead center (TDC) for cylinder #1 by the flywheel timing marks and confirming that your rocker arms for #1 are on overlap (closed), examples are shown below.
Then check to see where your distributor rotor is pointed. If at something other than post where the #1 (short) wire is attached, then pull the distributor and turn the rotor to ensure it lines up with #1 when fully seated. The diagram below shows the typical position of the #1 terminal on the distributor cap (source).
Then check to see where your distributor rotor is pointed. If at something other than post where the #1 (short) wire is attached, then pull the distributor and turn the rotor to ensure it lines up with #1 when fully seated. The diagram below shows the typical position of the #1 terminal on the distributor cap (source).
Yes, do as boonies suggests - line up the crank balancer with the timing case marker, and the TDC "0" ball in the flywheel window. Pull your valve cover to confirm the cam lobes are pointing opposite the rockers. Then see where your distributor rotor is pointing vis a vis the cap and let us know.
The Autobooks Manual that Lance references above makes one more suggestion if you have to remove the distributor. You need to align the rotor as shown below. The segment A in the illustration is about 35mm. If you don't do this, the rotor will be advanced well past the cylinder 1 mark because the gears make the rotor advance as you insert the distributor. All of this information is found on pages 47 - 49 of the Autobooks PDF.
So, I have done all these things suggested except checking the position of the rockers for cyl 1.
So I must start over to get this the right way.
So I must start over to get this the right way.
You say "0" ball. Is this correct? Isn’t this used for the dynamic timing only? At 1700rpm for my engine. Do I not use the TDC line mark on the flywheel when doing static timing?
“Z” ball is for timing with a light, it’s 22 degrees ahead of the “0” ball. The “0” ball will be in the bellhousing view hole at TDC and the crank balancer line will line up with the notch in the lower timing chain cover. Best to mark these with different color paint.
Yes
Fixed it!
Started the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Stopped it, turned the crank to TDC with rotor on distributor pointing at 2 o clock.
Pulled the distributor out and turned the rotor 180 degrees and reinstalled the distributor.
Then I rearranged the plug wiring in the right firing order cylinder 1 now being first.
The engine starts right up again.
Started the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Stopped it, turned the crank to TDC with rotor on distributor pointing at 2 o clock.
Pulled the distributor out and turned the rotor 180 degrees and reinstalled the distributor.
Then I rearranged the plug wiring in the right firing order cylinder 1 now being first.
The engine starts right up again.
Anyone experiencing the radiator fan hitting the AC/power steering pulley occasionally? I got the black 9 blade fan. The car had a red 8 blade earlier which was damaged due to a missing radiator clamp I believe. This I have thrown away so I can’t compare them with each other.
Water pump bearing seems fine.
Water pump bearing seems fine.
That is not normal. I am not familiar with the 9 blade fan and fan clutch layout. On my 5 blade fan the clutch was inside the fan and I suspect yours was as well. Assume you have a fan clutch, perhaps it is the position or spacing of the two in combination that is putting the fan too close to the other pulleys.
Might want a new thread for this
Doing some tuning on the carburetors.
I’m really new to this.
Following the instructions for setting up lean best idle on the webers I’m currently at 1 1/2 turns out on the idle mixture screws and 1/2 turn in on the idle speed screws. 45 idle jets. According to the example in the last part of the instruction this indicates a lean condition.
Should I go up one or more in size for the idle jets maybe?
Car runs rough on idle when cold and when the engine hasn’t been started for a while.
Idles really great when warm.
Fast idle set to about 1600rpm.
Electric chokes.
I’m really new to this.
Following the instructions for setting up lean best idle on the webers I’m currently at 1 1/2 turns out on the idle mixture screws and 1/2 turn in on the idle speed screws. 45 idle jets. According to the example in the last part of the instruction this indicates a lean condition.
Should I go up one or more in size for the idle jets maybe?
Car runs rough on idle when cold and when the engine hasn’t been started for a while.
Idles really great when warm.
Fast idle set to about 1600rpm.
Electric chokes.
My experience is that the carbs need to be set once warmed up. Your settings don't seem off. Keep in mind that most of the books on Weber tuning were written before we had ethanol in the fuel, so the specific gravity has changed, and thus the settings will be a bit different.
There is another really good source that Top End Performance has provided on their website. Here is a link.
There is another really good source that Top End Performance has provided on their website. Here is a link.
Thanks!
Interesting reading.
I read that the idle mixture screws may have to be turned unequally due to the construction of the intake manifold.
I have just turned them equally.
How do I know how to turn the one more than the other?
Interesting reading.
I read that the idle mixture screws may have to be turned unequally due to the construction of the intake manifold.
I have just turned them equally.
How do I know how to turn the one more than the other?
Agree, that was interesting to me as well. I think it is just about feeling for smooth idle, and not needing to keep enriching the inner screw in order to match the outer.
A critical component is to make sure your throttle shafts are aligned. It is easy to not have them aligned on the 38's, so you need to make sure they are balanced using a synchronizer.
A critical component is to make sure your throttle shafts are aligned. It is easy to not have them aligned on the 38's, so you need to make sure they are balanced using a synchronizer.
Yes but there must be some kind of ratio to be considered between the idle mixture screws. Now the screws are turned out equally 1 1/2 turns. So what to do? Would I be able to get a smoother idle by turning in the inner screw and the outer screw out to get the same amount of fuel?
Just doing some thinking here.
I got this syncrometer
There is an adapter designed for dgv/dgs carbs with two holes that can be used with this syncrometer (that I probably should have gotten instead of the one I have). Maybe this adapter could be used to measure the difference in flow through each barrel and then calculate the turns?
Just doing some thinking here.
I got this syncrometer
There is an adapter designed for dgv/dgs carbs with two holes that can be used with this syncrometer (that I probably should have gotten instead of the one I have). Maybe this adapter could be used to measure the difference in flow through each barrel and then calculate the turns?