Center Console Gauges

Yes I did. My plan was to install my gauges in the speaker location then source another grill so I didn't have to jack up my original one. After consideration it would take a fair amount of working the grill to get it to fit flush because of the inner frame behind the cloth.

I wanted to be able to keep stock appearance when desired but after installing the VDO Series 1 gauges I ended up loving the look so I blew off the stealth project.

I have not found that checking the gauges when driving is a problem, not much longer than looking at the stock temp gauge and certainly less than the radio.



Anybody given any thought to putting the gauges behind the speaker grill? I have seen gauges mounted at that location but always exposed. I have wondered about placing a few gauges there and fit the grill over it to make it look more original ... And maybe put a sub port there for connecting an I phone / iPad

Another thought about gauges at the radio delete or on a panel such as was drawn a few posts below. I get the discussion about the a/c switch being too deep ... But if you were doing a custom panel, give some thought to the e12 approach where there was a ring switch around the clock. It's a really cool approach
 
Its finally here!! So, one of my nephews is in grad school for architecture and as he was showing me some of his models I inquired about how he cut the really small parts. It turns out he has access to a laser cutter that can make very precise cuts from a drawing. So, I sent him a drawing, he put it into the relevant software, I sent him some wood and out came this:

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This is roughly what I hope to accomplish. Because my "mockup" console was from a non-A/C car, this sits too low, and I had to tilt it back a bit to keep the gauge from falling out. I will be deleting the radio and using the finished wood piece from this console to create a little storage bin there, similar to the non-A/C cars.

I am pretty sure I am going to try to incorporate the hoods over each gauge in order to be able to read them in the sun. I also have a plastic piece between the gauge and the gauge plate that tilts the gauge upward which is hard to see because of the angle; not sure I am going to keep that one.

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Chris, that will look awesome. Are you going to vinyl cover it or veneer it? Advise building a stop for the lower compartment behind the console. Not much room to fish stuff out if you brake hard.
 
Thanks Andrew -- I am planning to cover it with the same vinyl I am using to refinish my rear parcel shelf. The next step is to create the structural piece behind the face plate that will hold it up. I am planning something of a T, with a backstop and a little light shining down on the tray.
 
which gauges are you going to use and where did you get the hoods and the angle pieces?
 
Thanks Andrew -- I am planning to cover it with the same vinyl I am using to refinish my rear parcel shelf. The next step is to create the structural piece behind the face plate that will hold it up. I am planning something of a T, with a backstop and a little light shining down on the tray.

Sounds excellent...are you going to add a little layer of foam under the vinyl like the factory did?
 
which gauges are you going to use and where did you get the hoods and the angle pieces?

Hi Steve -- Air/fuel (which may look familiar to you when you see it), Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, and Voltage. The anti-glare rings are a VDO part.

I got the idea for the black angle pieces from your suggestion here on the forum to use an Alfa part that tilts the gauge toward the driver. I got them from either Summit Racing or Jegs; don't recall who made them. Not sure I am going to use them; if I do I will angle the gauges straight up rather than to the side. I will need to file an angle into the bottom of the gauge hole to make them fit. On the other hand, if I lack depth behind the plate, these may save the day.
 
yes i would have liked to incorporate the angle pieces but I wasnt patient enough to see it through, however there is no issue seeing them when they face straight back if you also find it proves to be more hassle than it's worth.
 
Looking great! I'm also anxious to see how the angle brackets work out. I love VDO auxiliary gauges. I have one near the hazard on my project car but I likely won't keep it. I also have a full set of VDO "JET cockpit" gauges that were used on 70's kit cars. I don't have them pictured, but the gauges include a surround that looks like a screw-down aircraft gauge.

I need to sand and respray the rings. I would like to take them apart to clean the back side of the glass.

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yes i would have liked to incorporate the angle pieces but I wasnt patient enough to see it through, however there is no issue seeing them when they face straight back if you also find it proves to be more hassle than it's worth.

Yeah, and I think straight back would look better than using the angle pieces. The problem is going to be whether I have the depth. VDO seemed to design the gauges as if they have infinite depth behind them. The fastening studs are really long, but more importantly the light bulb holder adds almost 10mm to the depth. Even with cutting the fastening studs and bending the electrical connectors on the light bulb holder, I need 50 mm. Another mounting idea would be to move the face plate outward against the bar along the bottom of the vents. This would pick up maybe 5mm of depth, and cover areas of chipped paint. DeQ mounted his this way, but the top of my plate may not be long enough.

Where did you get the bulb in your air/fuel gauge? If I absolutely run out of depth, I may consider changing the type of bulb (and it might look better to have the same bulbs in all four of the gauges).
 
Yes there is not a lot of room back there. I think I took the bulbs from the donor vdo gauges.
 
Yeah, and I think straight back would look better than using the angle pieces. The problem is going to be whether I have the depth. VDO seemed to design the gauges as if they have infinite depth behind them. The fastening studs are really long, but more importantly the light bulb holder adds almost 10mm to the depth. Even with cutting the fastening studs and bending the electrical connectors on the light bulb holder, I need 50 mm. Another mounting idea would be to move the face plate outward against the bar along the bottom of the vents. This would pick up maybe 5mm of depth, and cover areas of chipped paint. DeQ mounted his this way, but the top of my plate may not be long enough.

Where did you get the bulb in your air/fuel gauge? If I absolutely run out of depth, I may consider changing the type of bulb (and it might look better to have the same bulbs in all four of the gauges).

chris, i went the route to motometer, they are much more compact than vdos
 
Yes, as folks here can plainly see, I am not only stealing DeQ's idea of the four gauges, I even sourced the same Lucas switches. Some think it is crazy to voluntarily introduce anything from Lucas Electronics (otherwise known as the Prince of Darkness) into a German car, but they look so cool.

Imitation is the highest form of flattery, correct?
 
Chris, if you begin to get electrical gremlins you know the first place to check :)
And Imitation is the sincerest form of Flattery!
 
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