Center support bearing upgrade

RichenFamous

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Good day folks!

I needed to replace the center support bearing in the 2800 e3, so might as well upgrade!

Thought I’d share the install/review of a very nice product: JXB Performance BMW10A0 (link below).

Install took all of about an hour, tools out to tools in. No dropping the driveline. No fighting with that 24mm nut. No removing the guibo. You cut the bearing from the rubber support of the oem CSB, smooth out the rubber, clamp on the new JXB support, cut off old CSB, and test drive. Dropping the exhaust may not be completely necessary, but it does give you all the room needed and limits the curse words. I dropped it midway through.

Link:

Test drove for about an hour around town. No vibration what so ever. Very smooth. I opted for the street compound as I’m not bang shifting (all the time ). Super happy with JXB Performance. Customer service was instant. The president, Jay, even answered my questions on a Saturday. Haven’t come across that level of service in a long while. All that being said, Jay has a customer for life here. The 2002 and the e9 shall get the same treatment in the near future.

Cheers,
Rich
 

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Does it also allow for fore-aft movement?
From the images it seems that it's just static in that direction.

I do see the benefit of the mounting, and it's cleverly engineereed. I always like those solutions.

I just have more time than money....
 
Does it also allow for fore-aft movement?
From the images it seems that it's just static in that direction.

I do see the benefit of the mounting, and it's cleverly engineereed. I always like those solutions.

I just have more time than money....
Yes, there is a minimal amount of fore/aft adjustment. The rubber isolation pads are tapered to fit down to the depth of the bearing, so I just centered it the best I could, which turned out well. Also has a bit of port/starboard adjustment as well. Helped to clock the bearing housing square to keep the driveline inline.

I understand the time vs money dynamic, believe me! I gave up two months of coffee and microbrew! But it sure ended up being a good investment for me since I have been told by the doctor to control my stress level :)
 
Hi guys; can anyone think of a reason why BMW designed the OEM CSB, other than low cost and NVH, the way they did and not a more rigid support such as this one? Does a driveshaft need more of a bit of 'give' or degrees of freedom for some reason?
 
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Hi guys; can anyone think of a reason why BMW designed the OEM CSB, other than low cost and NVH, the way they did and not a more rigid support such as this one? Does a driveshaft need more of a bit of 'give' or degrees of freedom for some reason?
I've wondered that also. They're are many two-piece driveshaft assemblies out there and the ones I've seen in person are more robust. The one I put on the E3 must've been faulty or old "new old stock".
 
This is very interesting I’ve replaced the CSB housing on my e3 multiple times and it seams with in a short period of time a get the vibration on acceleration (usually from a stop). This has been an annoyance for years.

How’s that upgrade treating you since install?
 
I'm also curious how this is performing! I had stumbled across this site when looking for a CSB for my S6 wagon. Had not seen that they made one for BMWs as well!
 
That's for sharing. Didn't know the JXB part even existed. However I'd rather just spend $28 a couple times for an URO part rather than $300 for a lifetime part.
 
I'm also curious how this is performing! I had stumbled across this site when looking for a CSB for my S6 wagon. Had not seen that they made one for BMWs as well!
I’ve reached out to the company, they have confirmed that e21 BMW10A0 CSB works for the e3. I’ve ordered one and will see how it works out myself. If I remember I’ll update the chat.
 
Bust. Vibrates at 40+ mph. Tried a few deferent things to try and get it to work to no avail. Installed an old CSB I hade in my stock and vibrations went away. You can see in the pic the bearing center line deference. Unfortunate, my theory is it creates too much of an angle for the u-joint. Hopefully I’ll get my $300 back.
 

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Whoa! Bummer you’re experiencing issues.

I’ve put around 1500 miles on the e3 with the JXB installed and I’ve only adjusted twice (within first 50 miles to dial it in). I have zero vibration.

If all else in your drivetrain is in good order, I don’t see why a CSB would be the issue. Perhaps JXB folks will help you out.

Good luck.
 
Whoa! Bummer you’re experiencing issues.

I’ve put around 1500 miles on the e3 with the JXB installed and I’ve only adjusted twice (within first 50 miles to dial it in). I have zero vibration.

If all else in your drivetrain is in good order, I don’t see why a CSB would be the issue. Perhaps JXB folks will help you out.

Good luck.
I’m curious what you did to adjust it? I’ve reached out and they are sending me out a softer bushing. Like you said as well the rear end of the e3 hasn’t been given much attention in years so I believe it is exacerbating the issue. Just funny how the oem doesn’t have this issue at speed. JXB customer service has been top notch and will provide me a refund if the softer bushing doesn’t work. perhaps this will be a project for another time after I go over my rear end.
 
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I sanded down the remaining rubber around the original center support bearing to make sure to eliminate high/lows in the cut rubber. Also made sure I was as square as possible to the driveline.

Perhaps I was lucky, but I second your belief of lack of rear end attention over the years amplifying an already present vibration that an oem csb absorbs.

Food for thought, how often do you sit at 40mph? Around town I’m at 35 and on the freeway 70+. A minimal vibration may be a trade off vs csb replacement every 1000 miles or so… But if the vibration is too great and/or you are in the 40mph zone often, I completely understand.

If you’re in Northern California, Drive Line Service of Sacramento is THE place to have your driveline serviced (in West Sacramento). Quick turn around and fair pricing, I’ve gone there since high school.

There’s a trick by placing two hose clamps around the driveline and move one incrementally until vibration is eliminated. Maybe a PITA, but something to try.
 
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