Cheapest source for Bilsteins

Carl Nelson sells them for $100, look identical. You knock the bolts out of your strut bearing and insert these between bearing and fender. It is only 1/2 degree or so, your coupe came with 0 to 0.7 degrees positive camber. These will get you to zero or slightly negative. Improves handling too, no increase in tire wear. I have Carl's on the coupe and NK.
 
NK = his NK2000 sedan in the pic next to his coupe. Chris explained it clearly, simple to install when doing the springs and since the car will be lower the geometry needs to be adjusted accordingly, these do it nicely.

deQuincey said:
thanks chris, i beg your pardon, what does NK mean ?
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The geometry shifts automaticly into neg camber when lowering the car. The euro models without the strut DOT spacer had zero camber when the springs were new, now after 40 years the springs seated and turned the car about 10-15 mm lower and hence ca. 15' negative camber. If you are not driving harsh I'd recommend to stay with the standard strut bearings w/o any camber plates. But it's also a taste issue - do you want your classic car to feel like a classic or like a newer car...

I made a 4-wheel alignment on my Si in May and it had -0,5 deg camber up front with std springs and new Bilstein B6 Sport shocks.

Cheers
A
 
hi anders

i appreciate your explanations and comments

probably is a good point to maintain the way you are going

but i am going to use carl nelson springs, so the camber plates would probably help ?

i would like to irove the driving performance a bit, but i do not want to damage the car nor an excessive tyre wear

if this is the caes what would you recommend ?

regards
 
I always ran a little negative front Camber on my Corrado and never experienced abnormal tire wear. I am hoping that Negative camber on a Coupe sharpens the steering response a bit and adds grip.
 
don't forget, when you run shorter springs, the axle / suspension geometry change a little. the negative camber helps adjust the geometry. one thing it does do is take the outer top edge of the tire away from the fender lip.

perhaps my description is a little oversimplified ... but i'm sure somebody who races can give you a more technical description.
 
rsporsche said:
don't forget, when you run shorter springs, the axle / suspension geometry change a little. the negative camber helps adjust the geometry. one thing it does do is take the outer top edge of the tire away from the fender lip.

perhaps my description is a little oversimplified ... but i'm sure somebody who races can give you a more technical description.
Click to expand...

yes, i understand, that is good too !

any advise on using the Carl Nelson vs the IrelandEng. ?
where can i find the Carl Nelson ones ?
 
Interesting info on the negative camber. From what I read it only applies to the front.
Don't these BMW already come with negative camber in the rear? At least I recall that from the E24 at least. Looks like the rear sinks and camber goes negative under acceleration for sure.
 
Arde said:
Interesting info on the negative camber. From what I read it only applies to the front.
Don't these BMW already come with negative camber in the rear? At least I recall that from the E24 at least. Looks like the rear sinks and camber goes negative under acceleration for sure.
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You're absolutely right! Going from 2-2.5 negativ to more than 5 when acc hard ( or cornering )

A
 
deQuincey said:
yes, i understand, that is good too !

any advise on using the Carl Nelson vs the IrelandEng. ?
where can i find the Carl Nelson ones ?
Click to expand...
deQ,

the ireland units are adjustable, and also therefore, more expensive ... where the CN units are fixed. if you are going to track the car, and play with different spring rates, etc ... then i would use the adjustable ones.

hope this helps,
scott
 
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